How much oil do I need ???

MM53 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 02, 2015 10:40 pm

Changing fluids in my transmission transfer case front and rear axles how much do I need couldn't find it in the owners manual and I didn't see it on the search board the rear calls for a 75w 90 and the front for an 80w-90can I just put the 75w-90 in both ? And on the transmission I'm doing the filter and isn't there a check valve also ?

MM53 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 02, 2015 10:42 pm

its a 05 crd

Lancer · **Posted:** Tue Feb 03, 2015 5:25 am

The front and rear diffs can both take 75/90. There are 2 filters to replace in the 545, a flat panel and a spin-on, and you should get a little oil seal with the flat panel to replace the old one - make sure you put it in the right way round!
There is a non return valve in there; many people don't change it out if they don't need to, but it probably doesn't hurt to change it while you're in there. It's not necessary to do it at every filter change though from what I've been told.

ChesterCRD · **Posted:** Tue Feb 03, 2015 10:16 am

Differentials take 4.2 pints in the back and 2.5 pints in the front.

The transfer case holds 3 pints (1.5 qts).

The transmission holds 14.1 qts, but on change I get 10 qts out. always measure exactly what I remove and start with that when refilling. Usually I only have to warm it up and top it off 1/4 to 1/2 qt. I let mine drip overnight before putting the pan back on too, then give the RTV 12 hours to cure before adding ATF.

So one case of ATF+4 is usually perfect. I usually get a couple extra qts and then use some to replace ATF in the power steering at the same time.

MM53 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 03, 2015 4:51 pm

Thank you all very much it's this site and the knowledge of the people on it that make this jeep affordable and enjoyable to own :JEEPIN:

MM53 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 04, 2015 1:12 pm

Went to Napa to get the fluids did not have the ATF 4 the salesman told me they have Valvoline max life synthetic that supposed to be ATF 12345 compatible anybody use this or know anything about it and does anybody have the part number for that anti-drain back valve to keep it from jerking when I first put it in gear in the morning thanks

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Feb 04, 2015 2:27 pm

Excuse me but the Biloxi NAPA store (presume you mean Corbet Auto Parts, 10345 Auto Mall Pkwy) shows NAPA brand ATF+4 (NOL 75206) in stock and shoot I can get it here in Tally at my local 7-Eleven type gas station/mini-mart. I have no clue if that Valvoline stuff will work but folks have reported odd symptoms when not using ATF+F.

The antidrain back valve is inside one of the 2 tranny filters but I'm not sure which one. WIX has a tranny filter kit (58843), NAPA should have it. There is a tranny flow control valve (DCJ PN 04799681) that might have something to do with the tranny fluid drain back. I say might because I've seen discussion but on confirmation of this thought.

By jerking first thing in the morning I assume you mean when you first engage the tranny nothing happens for a moment or 2 at which point it jerks into gear. If so try this - crankup; shift into neutral (tranny fluid pump moves more fluid in neutral than park); hold a high idle (say 1200 rpm) for 10 seconds; shift into gear and drive off. Should prevent the jerk.

MM53 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 04, 2015 2:58 pm

Yes that's what I was referring to and that's what I do put it in neutral for a couple seconds and then and driving it's fine but why had it apart I was just going to fix it I went to the NAPA store in DAbbeville I'll try the Biloxi store thank you

thermorex · **Posted:** Sat Feb 07, 2015 2:36 pm

Many manufacturers get the certification from Chrysler and produce ATF+4 fluid, so as long as you see it's an ATF+4 fluid, it won't matter what brand you get. Napa has its own brand of ATF+4 fluids and they also sell valvoline ATF+4

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Feb 07, 2015 4:46 pm

MM53 wrote:

Yes that's what I was referring to and that's what I do put it in neutral for a couple seconds and then and driving it's fine but why had it apart I was just going to fix it I went to the NAPA store in DAbbeville I'll try the Biloxi store thank you

I replaced the drain back valve on mine when I serviced the transmission right after I first got it. It did not help the morning start hesitation and I used new Mopar filters!
As PAP stated, the put in neutral trick for a few seconds works every time.
Several on here discovered that adding extra ATF+4 to the tranny also helps this issue to some degree. I run my transmission oil level about 1/2 inch above the Normal Hot level mark.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sat Feb 07, 2015 8:44 pm

Having gone through 3 rear ends using Mopar synthetic (required to maintain factory extended warranty), I strongly suggest switching to SWEPCO 212. This is a non-synthetic, multi-weight oil with moly. It is considered the standard of the industry for hypoid gears. (No additive is needed with clutch type LSDs.)

DOC

MM53 · **Posted:** Sun Feb 08, 2015 9:21 pm

Would you go with the 75 90 or what the manual states is a heavy duty 75 140 weight for towing I very rarely do any heavy towing just a 4Wheeler

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sun Feb 08, 2015 10:52 pm

The lighter oil might get you an extra tenth of a mile per gallon. I think all 8.25 users should go with the heavier weight oil.

DOC

MM53 · **Posted:** Sun Feb 08, 2015 11:50 pm

good to know HD it is

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:23 am

All "serious" off-roaders recommend the Lucas 75w140 non synthetic. This is what I have and I'd recommend to everybody. It's also cheaper than other brand name synthetic diff oil.

MM53 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 10, 2015 6:03 pm

y not synthetic ???

Rocky05 · **Joined:** Fri May 17, 2013 11:38 pm **Posts:** 44

MM53 wrote:

y not synthetic ???

It's cheaper.

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Feb 11, 2015 9:00 am

It's not about price, it's about the properties that oil has. It is like honey, it sticks on gears and doesn't drip, plus since is a heavier weight, it resists better to temperature. Same weight of synthetic tends leave the gears sooner. Even though due to being heavier will theoretically decrease mpg, it has better lubing properties. In a diff, there are no "extreme" temperatures like in an engine or turbo, so there is no danger in oil breaking up due to not being synthetic, what a diff needs is constant oil between gears and it seems that Lucas non synthetic is one of the best there is. Some people also reported seals that stopped leaking once the oil was replaced with 75w140 non synthetic. I don't have a personal proof, other than I have been using it for years in both my jeeps without issues. And btw, haven't replaced anything in any diff, nor any rear bearing.

How much oil do I need ???

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