ECO Jeep Mods

65Corvair · **Posted:** Fri Nov 06, 2015 2:08 pm

I used this bulb seal off of eBay, from randpcarriages. I had bought 8 feet to go all the way around the fan shroud, but it only worked out well on the top edge.

95Z28A4 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:53 am **Posts:** 297

65Corvair wrote:

I used this bulb seal off of eBay, from randpcarriages. I had bought 8 feet to go all the way around the fan shroud, but it only worked out well on the top edge.

Thanks for the information.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sat Nov 07, 2015 12:03 pm

95Z28A4 wrote:

65Corvair wrote:

I used this bulb seal off of eBay, from randpcarriages. I had bought 8 feet to go all the way around the fan shroud, but it only worked out well on the top edge.

Thanks for the information.

X2, thanks! I have been trying to figure out the best way to seal up my FFD fan.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2016 8:17 pm

Did you ever get MPG numbers for all of this work? I would be surprised if you couldnt break 35. I was able to regularly see 34 highway with just a GDE tune on a stock jeep.

res0wc18 · **Joined:** Thu Dec 22, 2016 12:09 pm **Posts:** 14

Has anyone else done this?

Are the long term issues none?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

CuHunter · **Posted:** Sun Jun 09, 2019 12:49 pm

Howdy,

So last weekend the bearing in the viscous heater went in my CRD. It wouldn’t start because the serpentine belt was slipping on the VH so had to cut the belt off to drive home a few blocks up the street. So I was inevitably committed to a VH delete and considering I already had in hand a Stage 1+2 Weeks kit I figured I’d do it all at once. I deleted the AC, FCV, VH, EGR, crappy looking stock electric fan in front, AC cooler and mechanical fan. I added the ACDelco 38029 pulley in place of the smaller upper smooth idler and used ACDelco belt 6K763 (76.25” long). Photos below. I removed all the AC crap and the viscous heater, mech fan shroud and pretty much everything that wasn’t required. . I’ve got an e fan in order from amazon ($104 with 200 degree thermostat), but I did a test drive yesterday with no fan up Cyprus mountain in North Van from about sea level to 800m elevation. She came up to temperature the way it should and didn’t go over on the long steep climb at 60kph. I tow a 3000lb RV though so will definitely be putting in the e fan when it arrives.

The serpentine arrangement seems to work great and she’s a lot quieter now. You can actually hear the diesel now it idle rather than just all the spinning accessory crap. Much less to go wrong in the bush now. Thanks to everyone who posted on the belt lengths etc. Now only have 5 pulleys rather than 9. Photos below.

In the serpentine schematic below the routing I’ve got now is the blue line.

CuHunter · **Posted:** Sun Jun 09, 2019 1:05 pm

Sorry still figuring out how to post photos. Try this:

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Jun 09, 2019 1:23 pm

CuHunter wrote:

Howdy,

So last weekend the bearing in the viscous heater went in my CRD. It wouldn’t start because the serpentine belt was slipping on the VH so had to cut the belt off to drive home a few blocks up the street. So I was inevitably committed to a VH delete and considering I already had in hand a Stage 1+2 Weeks kit I figured I’d do it all at once. I deleted the AC, FCV, VH, EGR, crappy looking stock electric fan in front, AC cooler and mechanical fan. I added the ACDelco 38029 pulley in place of the smaller upper smooth idler and used ACDelco belt 6K763 (76.25” long). Photos below. I removed all the AC crap and the viscous heater, mech fan shroud and pretty much everything that wasn’t required. . I’ve got an e fan in order from amazon ($104 with 200 degree thermostat), but I did a test drive yesterday with no fan up Cyprus mountain in North Van from about sea level to 800m elevation. She came up to temperature the way it should and didn’t go over on the long steep climb at 60kph. I tow a 3000lb RV though so will definitely be putting in the e fan when it arrives.

The serpentine arrangement seems to work great and she’s a lot quieter now. You can actually hear the diesel now it idle rather than just all the spinning accessory crap. Much less to go wrong in the bush now. Thanks to everyone who posted on the belt lengths etc. Now only have 5 pulleys rather than 9. Photos below.

In the serpentine schematic below the routing I’ve got now is the blue line.

Your pictures aren’t showing for some reason.
I use Imgur for hosting pictures.

The CRD will absolutely run great without any cooling fan.
Provided that you are not moving a heavy load, local weather is nice and cool, and you are not running A/C.

I’ve deleted the engine driven fan and viscous heater.
Using only the factory electric fan in the grille.
In summer city driving with the A/C on, the engine will stay cool as long as the vehicle is moving. But stop and run at idle for too long and the temp starts creeping up.
Maybe with all the hours I have on this fan it possibly needs a new motor?

I once towed 5000lbs a long distance on a hot summer afternoon. Mostly flat highway.
To keep the engine running cool I had to keep the A/C off and speed below 60mph.

Pic of my viscous heater delete.
I have since swapped the large plastic pulley for a steel one.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sun Jun 09, 2019 6:49 pm

You can also post pics on the testing heading (pretty far down topic on initial lost page) until you get it right , then repost here. I also use Imgur as my host.

My66dodge · **Posted:** Sun Jun 09, 2019 10:36 pm

My wife's 06 has 260000 on it and with the gde basic Eco and Eco trans tune and low stall converter and afe pro guard 7 filter and Sasquach turbo upgrade running 245-70-16 tires we regularly see 34-37 on the open road. And that's going over snowqualimie and back at 70mph... My hope is for 40 when I regeared it to 3.55 as the rpm will be 1900 at 70.

The key to longevity is maintinence. I change my ALL my wife's fluids every year in the fall, cheap insurance when you make 10 trips over the pass in the winter... I also do all my fluids annually, it helps owning a shop... To customers who pay to get it done I say do every fluid biannually, so write down the fluids and devide them into 2 years and keep with the schedule for optimum performance. When I ran a fleet I regularly saw caravans and econolines go past the 350k mark with an all original drivetrain, heck I only had 2 out of 50 that didn't make it past the 300 mark.

I highly recommend liquimoly 5w40 leichtlauf oil part number 2332 and the mos2 additive 2009... The leichtlauf oil is one of their highest specs and it is an HTHF oil, it is also high saps so lots of lube at startup. When I took her cover off at 245k to replace the broken rockers due to the timing letting loose, the non broken rockers were like new! This is the best oil on e market for our little tractors, and the mos2 is just added insurance.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jun 10, 2019 12:58 am

My66dodge wrote:

My wife's 06 has 260000 on it and with the gde basic Eco and Eco trans tune and low stall converter and afe pro guard 7 filter and Sasquach turbo upgrade running 245-70-16 tires we regularly see 34-37 on the open road. And that's going over snowqualimie and back at 70mph... My hope is for 40 when I regeared it to 3.55 as the rpm will be 1900 at 70.
The key to longevity is maintinence. I change my ALL my wife's fluids every year in the fall, cheap insurance when you make 10 trips over the pass in the winter... I also do all my fluids annually, it helps owning a shop... To customers who pay to get it done I say do every fluid biannually, so write down the fluids and devide them into 2 years and keep with the schedule for optimum performance. When I ran a fleet I regularly saw caravans and econolines go past the 350k mark with an all original drivetrain, heck I only had 2 out of 50 that didn't make it past the 300 mark.
I highly recommend liquimoly 5w40 leichtlauf oil part number 2332 and the mos2 additive 2009... The leichtlauf oil is one of their highest specs and it is an HTHF oil, it is also high saps so lots of lube at startup. When I took her cover off at 245k to replace the broken rockers due to the timing letting loose, the non broken rockers were like new! This is the best oil on e market for our little tractors, and the mos2 is just added insurance.

Their website recommends 10W-40 for the Jeep CRD 2.8. May just be a German thing?
Price wise kind of in line with Royal Purple 10W-40
https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/service/o ... 3999ea8f8/

https://products.liqui-moly.com/mos2-le ... 40-14.html

CuHunter · **Posted:** Tue Jun 11, 2019 2:20 am

Figured out photos I think. So the serpentine routing I used is the blue line (76.25” belt). Will eventually upgrade the new idler to a steel one but just drove 600mi today with no fan and no belt issues. Stop and go traffic or towing without a fan would definitely be a problem though.

CuHunter · **Posted:** Tue Jun 11, 2019 6:56 pm

flash7210 wrote:

Pic of my viscous heater delete.
I have since swapped the large plastic pulley for a steel one.

What steel pulley did you end up using? Having a hard time finding one.

Thanks for the input.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 694

I'm posting here to become a part of this topic. I hope that enables me to use the Quote feature from this thread.

Dean.

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK · **Joined:** Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:29 pm **Posts:** 1167

I am also posting on here to participate and see other members' posts.

If this thread is all about fuel economy, then the low operating temperature of the CRD engine in North America should always be a part of the discussion.

DieselJeepLuvr · **Posted:** Sun Jul 16, 2023 9:09 pm

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK wrote:

I am also posting on here to participate and see other members' posts.

:ROTFL:

If this thread is all about fuel economy, then the low operating temperature of the CRD engine in North America should always be a part of the discussion.

Unfortunately there is no "readily available alternative" to the stock thermostat. :ROTFL:

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