ECO Jeep Mods

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Jul 13, 2015 6:58 pm

95Z28A4 wrote:

65Corvair wrote:

I don’t like the reduced belt wrap on the crankshaft pulley and the AC compressor pulley. I also don’t like the lack of clearance between the tensioner and the belt above it.

Moving the tensioner to the other port for it in the timing cover gets rid of the small amount of clearance, although it isn't a problem. The lack of wrap on the crank has caused mine to slip just a tiny bit (belt squeak) on occasion, but maybe the improved tension of a new tensioner will solve the problem. Some belt conditioner might help as well. You just have to file the tensioner a few mils to get it to fit perfectly in the other port. I am guessing it was for the marine version, or the EU version without the VH? But, is there a different tensioner available to fit this other spot without modification?

95Z28A4 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:53 am **Posts:** 297

95Z28A4 wrote:

65Corvair wrote:

95Z28A4 wrote:

I think a 1/2" aluminum plate....

I will look into this. The space between the tensioner and idler is far from ideal.

FYI......the Gates part number for the 17mm x 12mm shoulder bushing for use with an idler pulley is M17x12B .

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... rd=m17x12b

Here's a link to a pdf of Gates Micro-V® Belts Listed by Number. It includes the belt specifications. You can look up the part numbers on http://www.rockauto.com to determine the application and from there determine if it is readily available. The Gates part number for the stock CRD belt is K061130 and is 113 5/8" long.

http://www.gates.com/oreilly/PDFs/SizeListings.pdf

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Jul 14, 2015 11:32 am

Oh, with the tensioner relocated I only have contact across the bottom of the crank pulley. The pics in this thread are how I used to have mine, and I had no belt slippage like that. Just wanted to share my difficulties on this front. I think the occasional slip may have remedied itself, but my daily has been sitting in line for ARP's...

thefunk · **Posted:** Tue Jul 14, 2015 8:25 pm

When you get to the point that you purchase tires, I highly recommend Michelin Premier A/S. I bought 2 sets for other vehicles, they are fantastic and I picked up about 1.5 mpg. Not appropriate for "Jeeping" but for on-pavement driving they're dang hard to beat. Catch them on sale at Tire Rack or Discount Tire and they're very affordable too.

Auberon · **Posted:** Thu Jul 16, 2015 4:01 pm

This may be too far out out of left field but what about when the timing belt is done - take the water pump out of the equation.

Either replace it by blanking off and an idler in place or by-pass by belt running straight up and missing the WP pulley completely. Shorter belt of course. You get fair wrap around on pulleys. The guard would need some modding to allow this.

Of course an electric WP would be needed but then you would have far better control over running temps which could then be optimised and economy should commensurately be improved as you will be running at optimum.

Of course the t/stat could be replaced with the non original modded jobs too but that still leaves you driving the WP driven all the time.
A significant HP gain on the electric WP.....something like 3 hp gained back.

Just a way-out thought.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Jul 16, 2015 7:04 pm

Electric water pump would be cool but that would require a lot reengineering and fabrication. The best part about having a electric water pump is that you can let it run while the engine is off and still cool the engine.
Some drag racers do this. Using a electric water pump and zero belt driven accessories.

Auberon · **Posted:** Fri Jul 17, 2015 2:26 am

All mods take some engineering. Just putting the idea out there.
Depends how serious OP is about this really. Happy to help.
I just see that the relatively obvious has been done thus far and it needs to go to the next step if it is to be kept.

The WP delete is entirely possible but it is not yet time to reveal any details methinks. I have looked at this and it can be done relatively easily depending on your ability to engineer.

Empty pockets stopped me from doing much of what I know can be done to improve this engine.
I think from POV of a person who machines and welds their own mods like this so it only takes time until having to spend big money.
These are serious contenders for when my finances are in better shape and I'm less time poor.
Its like my intention to build an air filter box to house the air filter for the V8 Landcruiser sold here which has good particulate filtering efficiency and about twice the filtering area affording (all up) about 1/2 to 2/3 the air flow resistance that the stock panel filter we were supplied with provides.

It will physically fit and this is the one I will do first. This little engine does not breathe well. There is pronounced resistance in that airbox even as I note our friend has installed a gasser airbox. If you care to measure it. Fabricating a suitable housing will let the little engine breathe about 50% more easily and with greater volume. This is nowhere near the limits of what can be gained without compromising filtration quality with a K&N unit.

All these things take engineering but when it what you do it isn't so hard to see these possibilities.
Remembering I am working on RHD and Export - subtle differences.

It's just throwing it out there for thunking 'n consternation.

Auberon · **Posted:** Fri Jul 17, 2015 3:53 am

Simple things count.
You could add a bell mouth - of course depending in your inlet to air box already employed..
Known to have improved flow through them in 73 mm diam id pipe .......@ a pressure differential of 3 inches of water (on a flow bench) a 215 mm long tube flowed 255 cfm when cut off square at the end.
repeated with 215 mm long tube 318 to 322 cfm flowed with a bell mouth added...the higher figure was for a custom made bellmouth .....etc
A good resource is Axial Flow Fans and Ducts (R. Allan Wallis 1983 ISBN 0-471-87086-2)

65Corvair · **Posted:** Fri Jul 17, 2015 9:30 pm

The electric coolant pump is an awesome ideal however it is a little out of scope for the project.

I do have a V6 air box that I am using. But another air filter housing could be used too. The link below has a good article about using an industrial air cleaner in a XJ, could be compatible if the is a housing that fits.

http://www.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAirFilter.htm

Auberon · **Posted:** Sun Jul 19, 2015 7:16 am

Thanks for posting that.
Been doing lots of speculating of just what possibilities might work.
Have been toying with the idea that the Donaldson housing might fit on an oblique/diagonal angle from the front corner near the headlight to center of the motor.

Found a mob here that manufactures to order using some Donaldson aspects.
There's a whole industry behind engine breathing other than filter bodgers.

I won't use the K&N as any bulldust would kill the entire motor in 5 minutes - that filtration capacity and particulate efficiency is critical in Australia.
I liked that he noted a quieter intake as the motor would ostensibly be breathing so much more easily given relatively huge filter area.

For one I'm turning the main battery in engine bay through 90 degrees so it runs parallel to the axis of the car.
That and something akin to the weeks mod (I'm already making mine in Stainless) may give enough room on the battery side.
Need to make more styro full-sized bits so its easy top organise.
I have things to fit already that just won't that I regard as necessary additions.

It's all getting very close to happening.
I am very partial to the aspect of helping the engine breathe more easily.
Been leaning towards that style fitment but considered making my own housing - early days in the planning just at this stage.
Phil - Good luck with your project. The sky's the limit.

65Corvair · **Posted:** Sun Jul 19, 2015 11:37 pm

The E-Fan from a 3.7 was mostly installed today. I had to do quite a bit of cutting around the edges to make it work, but now that it is in, it almost looks stock. I actually bolted the top half of the original CRD fan shroud in place to keep the correct hose routings across the top of the radiator.

For the trimming I had to remove:
5/16 inch (8mm) from the green line on the bottom
1/8 inch (3mm) from the red lines on the left and right
and remove the whole top part (blue line)
The original bolt hole mounting tabs were removed because the spacing is incorrect

The slot mounts had to be shortened 1/2 inch (13mm) on each side

Next, was to fabricate mounting tabs to match the CRD radiator. I used some 1/8 inch (3mm) aluminum flat stock and bent some to work.

Once installed, there is about 3/4 inch (19mm) between the engine fan bracket and the new E-Fan motor. I also added a bulb seal along the top of the fan to help keep air form entering around the gaps. (pulls more air through the radiator) It is the white strip in the bottom of the picture.

Here is it with the top half of the CRD fan shroud mounted to it.

Only thing left to do is extend the wires to reach the location of the fan plug on the chassis harness.

65Corvair · **Posted:** Wed Aug 05, 2015 11:37 pm

No mods to update today, but today is the first time this Jeep has seen the highway in 9 months! I got the unibody straightened out (front end had some sway) and picked up a bunch of parts from the junkyard. It needs lots of little thing done to it before it becomes a daily driver again though.
Paint will come after it has been proven reliable. It will be painted its original red color.

The E-Fan did kick on today so I know that works.

Very happy day for me, makes me realize how much I love the CRD engine over the 3.7L.

Notice anything different from the normal CRD front end?

From 9 months ago

Mountainman · **Posted:** Thu Aug 06, 2015 12:12 pm

What front bumper is that, and I forget, did someone pull out in front of you? Just curious what mashed the front end so massively. The huge deer I hit at 60 pretty much crushed the front almost that bad, and it wrapped around the side and ate a fender and dented the door also!

joelukex4 · **Joined:** Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:54 pm **Posts:** 386

You put it back together with 02 - 04 parts. That is cheating.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Nov 03, 2015 11:39 am

The belt still holding up?

65Corvair · **Posted:** Tue Nov 03, 2015 2:14 pm

It has 1200 miles on it so far and looks great. Hopefully I will get my extended air dam made and installed next week.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Nov 03, 2015 4:05 pm

Cool, thanks for the report, I would say you have found a nice pulley for the job.

My advice to anyone doing this mod (VH and Mech fan delete). Make sure you use the same idler pulley as 65corvair, as I used one from NAPA, I think it was stamped Gates, and it ate two belts before I decided to just relocate the tenioner.

The plastic Gates one I used had a real wobbley bearing as new. It was smooth and in good shape, just not very stable pulley. I guess I could have gotten a loose one, but who knows.

Gageraid · **Posted:** Tue Nov 03, 2015 7:50 pm

65Corvair wrote:

It has 1200 miles on it so far and looks great. Hopefully I will get my extended air dam made and installed next week.

Please post pictures of that asap.

65Corvair · **Posted:** Thu Nov 05, 2015 11:13 pm

Bought a universal tailgate mat today to cut up for the air dam. It needs to stay unrolled for a few days so it no longer curls.
http://www.deezee.com/Tailgate-Mats/p153

95Z28A4 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:53 am **Posts:** 297

65Corvair wrote:

[img]Once installed, there is about 3/4 inch (19mm) between the engine fan bracket and the new E-Fan motor. I also added a bulb seal along the top of the fan to help keep air form entering around the gaps. (pulls more air through the radiator) It is the white strip in the bottom of the picture.

Is this the type of bulb seal you used?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NBX ... VLGMJJ2DVA

ECO Jeep Mods

Who is online