ECO Jeep Mods

65Corvair · **Posted:** Sat Apr 04, 2015 12:46 am

It already have the Euro torque converter in it, I don't really want to change that ever again unless I have to. But if I do need to pull the transmission out I will definitely consider it, once it has been proven to be reliable.

I played with adding a pulley on the mech fan mount to keep the belt above the tensioner, I would like to keep the stock tensioner. Trying different ideas and alternate belt routings is quite fun actually, that is the benifet as having this as my "hobby" Jeep.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Fri Apr 10, 2015 7:14 pm

That's where I first added the Gates pulley, it was about 5-6" and that just kept the tensioner from rubbing on the belt where it came up off of the power steering pulley. That large Gates pulley was sloppy and after a few hundred miles it caused the belt to split on one of the 6 grooves. I figured it might have been the belt, and tried another, only with worse results (it split the outer section again, and that ripped one of the wires off of my electric fan control, which caused me to boil-over while towing 8k pounds up a steep grade). Anyhow, I ultimately ground a few mils off the stock tensioner and it fits perfectly in the other tensioner spot on the timing cover (lower right). This all worked out well with the AC gone. I think it would be just as easy with the AC there. I could eyeball it for you if you wanted me to.

Another bonus to my approach is that you can throw that five pound sinker of a fan mount in the trash. As you can hopefully see on my Avatar, the front of my engine is wide open.

65Corvair · **Posted:** Tue Jun 02, 2015 10:04 pm

I "made" some stub half-shafts to insert through the wheel hubs. They are torqued to 100 ft-pounds, I assume that the compression created by this help keeps the wheel hub together. These were created from half-shafts I bought from the junk yard that were from a 3.7 gasser.

Major reassembly should start this weekend if the weather co-operates.

RenKJ · **Joined:** Sat Jan 24, 2015 4:45 am **Posts:** 96

65Corvair wrote:

I "made" some stub half-shafts to insert through the wheel hubs. They are torqued to 100 ft-pounds, I assume that the compression created by this help keeps the wheel hub together. These were created from half-shafts I bought from the junk yard that were from a 3.7 gasser.

Major reassembly should start this weekend if the weather co-operates.

So are these cut down for more lift in the front?

65Corvair · **Posted:** Tue Jun 02, 2015 11:29 pm

RenKJ wrote:

65Corvair wrote:

So are these cut down for more lift in the front?

These are just then ends of the stock CV shafts. Since my jeep will be only 2wd, I needed something to install inside the front wheel hubs.

65Corvair · **Posted:** Mon Jun 08, 2015 11:38 pm

I altered the belt routing to no longer the use the engine driven fan and the viscous heater. I used Napa pulley 38029 and serpentine belt 6K815. The Napa pulley replaces the smooth idler pulley on the cast iron fan mount, but because of the size of the pulley it will interfere with the fan mount pulley. The new routing is as follows:

To remove the fan mount pulley you need to remove this set screw, then just drive/ press the bearing out of the cast iron mount.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2015 7:02 am

Can you post a pic of everything installed on the engine?

65Corvair · **Posted:** Tue Jun 09, 2015 10:54 pm

Mountainman · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2015 12:18 am

65Corvair wrote:

Yeah, that looks like the pulley I got from NAPA and it's plastic and has a ton of play if it's the same one. I'll pull mine out of the box sometime and check, but on mine with the same routing as yours (minus the AC pulley and the idler by it) that stupid plastic pulley ate two belts. Watch out that the outer "strand" of the belt at the last strand parallel with the length doesn't split off. I'd be really curious if you have better luck.

No need to support that bearing, and it will save you some tiny amount of rotational mass.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2015 7:50 am

Ok now I understand. You used the Napa pulley 38029 to replace the OEM idler pulley #1 in the factory belt diagram and had to remove the mechanical fan pulley #5 in the same diagram to avoid interference. Pooh, I'd sort of hoped there was a way to do this sort of routing getting enough clearance on the #7 tensioner pulley to keep the mechanical fan in place while removing the viscous heater entirely.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2015 8:30 am

What about using this Gates 38009? It looks to be a smaller diameter than the 38029.

38009

38029

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2015 10:10 am

I suspect a significantly smaller pulley would not allow the belt to clear the tensioner pulley enroute to the power steering pulley

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2015 10:56 am

First thing in my book would be to lower the beast.
Second I would find some low rolling resistance tires (higher psi).
Third would be a grill block to get air intake temps up a bit.
Fourth/Fifth might be a gearing change...and/or maybe http://www.airtab.com/ .
Sixth might be a fuel mileage only tune from GDE.

Looked thru this post and you have done considerable work so far...Great Going!

Then as Hypermilers always say..."Adjust the Nut behind the Wheel ..."

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2015 11:04 am

papaindigo wrote:

I suspect a significantly smaller pulley would not allow the belt to clear the tensioner pulley enroute to the power steering pulley

True, but maybe also use a slightly shorter belt to pull the tensioner further away?

I guess there is really only one way to find out... :wink:

65Corvair · **Posted:** Wed Jun 10, 2015 11:23 am

flash7210 wrote:

True, but maybe also use a slightly shorter belt to pull the tensioner further away?

If you get too short of a belt in will increase the tension too much and decrease belt life.

I plan to run like this until issues develop. If/when they do occur I will update my thread.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 12, 2015 11:16 am

65Corvair wrote:

flash7210 wrote:

True, but maybe also use a slightly shorter belt to pull the tensioner further away?

If you get too short of a belt in will increase the tension too much and decrease belt life.

I plan to run like this until issues develop. If/when they do occur I will update my thread.

Ok, it's been a month. Any updates?

95Z28A4 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:53 am **Posts:** 297

65Corvair wrote:

I don’t like the reduced belt wrap on the crankshaft pulley and the AC compressor pulley. I also don’t like the lack of clearance between the tensioner and the belt above it.

95Z28A4 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:53 am **Posts:** 297

papaindigo wrote:

Ok now I understand. You used the Napa pulley 38029 to replace the OEM idler pulley #1 in the factory belt diagram and had to remove the mechanical fan pulley #5 in the same diagram to avoid interference. Pooh, I'd sort of hoped there was a way to do this sort of routing getting enough clearance on the #7 tensioner pulley to keep the mechanical fan in place while removing the viscous heater entirely.

I think a 1/2" aluminum plate with an idler pulley can be fabricated and bolted to the same bracket as the viscous heater. It should be simple to manufacture. Both Ford and GM have used this method as a means of deleting the A/C compressor in serpentine belt systems. The Gates 36157 idler pulley is 3.5" and I believe a good candidate. It is used on common Ford vehicles and should be available anywhere.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C9 ... PDKIKX0DER

I emailed Seth with Sasquatch with this idea. He emailed a link to this thread which I had already seen. If enough people are interested, he may considering manufacturing the bracket.

65Corvair · **Posted:** Sun Jul 12, 2015 11:48 pm

flash7210 wrote:

Ok, it's been a month. Any updates?

None yet, I just got back from vacation today. I plan to work on the conversion of the 3.7L E-Fan next.

95Z28A4 wrote:

I think a 1/2" aluminum plate....

I will look into this. The space between the tensioner and idler is far from ideal.

95Z28A4 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:53 am **Posts:** 297

65Corvair wrote:

flash7210 wrote:

Ok, it's been a month. Any updates?

None yet, I just got back from vacation today. I plan to work on the conversion of the 3.7L E-Fan next.

95Z28A4 wrote:

I think a 1/2" aluminum plate....

I will look into this. The space between the tensioner and idler is far from ideal.

FYI......the Gates part number for the 17mm x 12mm shoulder bushing for use with an idler pulley is M17x12B .

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... rd=m17x12b

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