So I have been unable to start the Jeep since Thursday morning when it was really cold here in Michigan.

Was thinking gelled fuel in the filter or lines might be the culprit.

Rolled her into the garage overnight and got the temperature above 30 degrees Fahrenheit.

When i was priming the fuel filter I noticed a pretty good leak at the right electrical connection on the right side of the filter head (when looking from the front of the jeep). I think this is the connection for the fuel filter heater.

The heater plug looks a little fried - as I have sen in some photos posted here.

Would a failure in this circuit prevent the engine from starting?

Can I run the engine with the heater unplugged until I can get a new upgraded filter head?

Still can't get the engine to start...

_________________
2005 CRD Limited, Black 205k Miles (Timing Belt Changed at 100k and 200k), GDE Eco-Tune, Carter in-tank lift pump
2005 CRD Sport, Black - Ingested Valve at 170k miles R.I.P.

Order the new part asap. Allowing the fuel pump to eat air from the leak will eventually damage fuel system hardware and get very expensive. You could degrease the heater circuit connection and fill with epoxy, jb weld or something to block the air path into the fuel supply in the meantime.

_________________
Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
(248) 977 - 9531

A few more cranks this morning and the Jeep is alive!

I was really worried about cranking with no start and damaging the CP3 pump.

Ordered the next generation filter head with new heater plug harness.

Should be here within a week.

Any issues driving a week in the current configuration?

_________________
2005 CRD Limited, Black 205k Miles (Timing Belt Changed at 100k and 200k), GDE Eco-Tune, Carter in-tank lift pump
2005 CRD Sport, Black - Ingested Valve at 170k miles R.I.P.

If it's already leaking:
This illustrates catastrophic failure of the heating element connector and internal heater element




Further:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=80722

Also, this should partially answer the question someone had about transferring the KJ Fuel Temp Sensor to the Cummins fuel manager: the KJ sensor de-clips from it's assigned position in the heater puck, and can be inserted into suitable hole in the Cummins cannister with temp-sensitive RTV for temp-duty service until correct connections can be made to the Cummins sensor

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

I cannot provide a neat clean answer to your question about running it pending receipt and installation of the new filter head. Best I can say:
1. your no start was almost certainly related to the leaky fuel heater element which induces air into the top of the filter head resulting is poor or not delivery of fuel to the engine hence GDE's warning.
2. you are in an area where the fuel heater is probably needed to keep running unless the vehicle can be garaged when parked or not parked in the open long so unplugging the element and packing the hole with something to prevent leaking may not be a good option BUT
3. continuing to run with the leak means more air in the filter head and a small risk of fire.
If you have any options that let you not drive the vehicle until the new filter head is installed I'd recommend using those options. If you absolutely have to drive it and it cannot be garaged and the hole packed then I'd bleed the fuel head every day to minimize the air in fuel risk.

FYI when you get the new unit it has a new filter and WIF sensor installed (save your old WIF just in case) and the wiring comes with 2 sets of wires (don't ask me). To assemble the pigtail - look at your existing wires and match the new wires as closely as possible based on size (colors won't match); thread the new wires back thru the new plug based on that size match and secure with the blue plastic clip; undo battery; cut the old wires and splice in the new ones (I used marine grade butt connectors with heat shrink tubing - rosin core solder and heat shrink or quality electrical tape work too); plug in and reconnect battery.

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thanks everyone for the advice and information. Got the new filter head installed on Thursday this week - only drove about 80 miles with the leaking unit.

Connected fattest wire (green) from the new plug to the fattest witre (red) on the Jeep.

Jeep is back on the road.

_________________
2005 CRD Limited, Black 205k Miles (Timing Belt Changed at 100k and 200k), GDE Eco-Tune, Carter in-tank lift pump
2005 CRD Sport, Black - Ingested Valve at 170k miles R.I.P.

can you tell me the model number and brand-name for my 06 libby? I've hit many walls and want to change out leaky oem one,and a lift pump to go in the tank, i see people use kennnedy, can't find it and i believe new ffm is prevent

Kennedy lift pump is an in-line pump and not a tank one. Google Kennedy diesel. You'll find the website.

_________________
2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Redesigned Fuel Filter Head kit - 68043089AA with filter and wire\plug adaptor
Wiring Adapter Plug - 68043086AB
Fuel Filter - 52129238AA (NAPA: FIL 3647, WIX: 33647)

Cummins intank lift pump
DCJ (P)52121447AD
CARTER P76148M
AIRTEX E7181M


AIRTEX in-line lift pump, E8251 3-5psi
FACET in-line lift pump, 40109

Can be found on eBay

pictorial showing the replacement to the upgraded filter head:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=64260

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

thats the cats booty! thank you so much, I'm a little confused though the ffm picture in your link looks like the 1 i have now, 2nd generation? it was change at the dealer 11/2 years ago, does the 2nd gen leak as well?i thought provent was the proper replacement

The 2n gen OEM fuel filter head has a blue fuel heater plug on right front side of head as viewed from the front. If yours was replaced 1.5 years ago by the dealer it's almost certainly 2n gen.

Can a 2n gen leak? Of course any fuel filter assembly can leak (filter not tightened enough, inner filter gasket left on so doubled up on that inner gasket hence filter won't fully seat, primer pump seal blown, bleed screw not tight or fitting base damaged, hose clamps not tight, etc). Proper related question can 2n gen filter head get air? Yes (see filter not seated but more likely one or both of the quick disconnects in the fuel supply line back by the tank is sucking air).

Is the provent the proper replacement? No the provent has nothing to do with fuel rather it's something that can be installed in the CCV to intake line to capture oil before it goes thru the intake system.

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

Pap is right, there can always be air inleakage without a in-tank lift pump!
If you install an in-tank lift pump, any air inleakage leaks in the entire system will immediately become visible fuel leaks that can be quickly identified... With a in-tank lift pump, the whole system will be under ~14 psig positive pressure instead of the injection pump having to suck the fuel, and any air if you have leaks, all the way from the tank through all the fittings, filters, etc...
The slip on "O ring" fittings were designed for positive pressure on gas vehicles, NOT for the suction side of any fuel pump no matter the location! Some have cut them out and replaced them with new hose and screw clamps...
Cummins in-tank lift pump
DCJ (P)52121447AD
CARTER P76148M
AIRTEX E7181M

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

guys thank you so much for support! cleared up a lot of things,i do have the 2nd generation ffm so I'm doing the in tank pump to start,will post piks when i get started

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go