With or without water pump replacement? I have no clue what "book" time is but would guess about 4hrs without WP and 5-5.5 with assuming no problems. A bit less if the fan shroud has been modified to make fan and shroud removal easier.

PM or email geordi for a more definitive answer.

Just to get it out there IMHO speaking just of the belt it's not a 100,000 mile service interval, yes I know what the manual says, rather it should be a 6yr or so/100,000 mile whichever comes first. I simply don't believe is risking rocker damage to stretch the life of the rubber band timing belt much past 6yrs hence mine was done 12/2013 at 49,675 miles at which point the belt was noticeably "harder" that the new one and both idlers were leaking grease.

Did not see anything about diesel repair on their site. Hope it all works out, and let us know if they say additional problems so we can clue you in if it was casued be timing gone bad.

It should sound exactly the same with the new TB as it did before.

They probably took the CAC hose off for access. I suspect it hasn't been reinstalled properly and is leaking air. Probably just one of the jubilee clips needs tightened a bit. If you can hear it and don't have a CEL then expect one shortly.

The idlers are required as part of the service but not the tensioner but most of us replace them all. If your unsure I'd ask for the old parts.

If it sounds different (especially louder) then something wasn't done properly somewhere. The engine should sound the same, or possibly quieter. In the case of the engines I have worked on, the owners all comment that the engine is smoother and quieter with a fresh belt job.

I don't know what was done and how, but if this was my CRD, I would be planning to disassemble the front of the engine and do at least part of the job again. It isn't technically that complicated to get to the timing cover, and you don't need to take the grille / radiator / bumper out at all.

I'm concerned about the change in sound. There was something that wasn't done right. Chances are it is just the fuel pump being out of time with where it should be... But it could also be the cams or the crank. It could be anything, and it needs to be checked. As the belt wears in, the timing will adjust (this is normal) within the designed range. If the initial timing isn't done right, you could reach the end of that designed range, and the result will be piston contact and broken rockers.

I think you might want to plan to tear into it yourself, or maybe ask Sir Sam if he is in your area and can offer any assistance. Colorado isn't exactly convenient, but he is a lot closer than I am in Florida!

Ouch, with people in your local area who have done this job, why did you go to a shop? Did they have the proper VM timing belt tools or did they do the usual pray and mark method? Start saving up now, shop and even dealership reports/experiences on timing belt jobs do not fare well and end up costing $$$. I wish you luck and hope you are the exception.