Good Used CRD engine value

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Jan 26, 2015 9:00 pm

Hello,
I have a longblock to sell, since I need the cash, and I want to sell it for a fair price. What do you all think a long block with 88k miles, no significant wear ring in the cylinders, and a good tested head is worth? Please consider with new rockers, and or no rockers as I think they are junk if they have 88k miles on them. I am also going to leave the CP3, water pump (seems to be pretty new with bearing drag), and EGR.

Some numbers to consider
Ebay:Junkyard engine, about $5k with around 130k miles
Mopar: about ten million $$. Or only $3.5k with a core exchange of $3.5k =$7k??

I appreciate any thoughtful opinions! :JEEPIN:

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue Jan 27, 2015 5:01 pm

Well, are we talking strictly block with no bolt-ons?

Turbo? EGR/FCV? Fuel Rail & Injectors? New head Gasket?

More specifics for better pricing information.

88k doesn't mean the rockers/lifters are toast, especially if it was properly cared for.

Why is it out?

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Jan 27, 2015 6:59 pm

thanks for the response! Hmm, good point. I don't see any point in removing the CP3, EGR, oil cooler, or the water pump which still has bearing drag (I assume it was replaced recently). It was out for 4 collapsed rockers. I'm open to selling it with the head detached, or not, so the buyer can see for themselves the very low wear in the cylinders, and that no valves went wild or anything.
It pulled like a champ without smoke prior to the rockers failing. It was still running when I shut it down.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Jan 27, 2015 7:32 pm

If the rockers failed... Why? Why pull the block and replace it, rather than just replace the rockers and drive on? Seems like a lot of money spent for replacing things that weren't the source of the problem. I'm scratching my head here trying to understand the thought process.

The rockers are well known as a weak point, this is by design, to protect the rest of the engine from a bad timing job. You say that the water pump "feels new" because of bearing drag... Was the timing belt done, or did the original belt snap because of age degradation?

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Jan 27, 2015 7:57 pm

Hey Geordi, thanks for chiming in.

I robbed about 2k worth of parts from this jeep for my daily driver that ate a huge buck at high speed, this was after the rockers went in it. I thought from the sound of it, that the engine had bigger problems, but when I opened it up it was just some rockers that collapsed, and scarred the cams a bit. But, replacing the 2k worth of parts, plus rockers, studs, gasket, cams, and getting the body bits painted to match is going to cost way more than I would get back.

So, in order to recoop costs for a nasty custody battle, I'm parting this one and moving on. I'm also robbing the low mileage tranny from this one for my daily since I'm about to replace the torque converter anyhow.

Sucks to take a one owner, low miles limited jeep with the limited slip rear, and part it, but it just makes sense at this point. I've been tempted to sell the engine out of my daily (177k miles), and drop this 88k mile engine in it, but my old one pulls like it's new.

The timing belt looks like new, as does the water pump, if bearing drag is a good indicator on these things (I'll have to look at the other VM pump thats new, that I have in a box somewhere). I had the number from the factory timing belts somewhere, I might have got it from you. But, even if this thing only has a few thousand miles on the new belt, it's probably a few years old, so no point in reusing it anyhow. It's free for anyone crazy enough to use it!

Mountainman · **Posted:** Wed Jan 28, 2015 3:16 pm

ok, I've got to get back to this fellow lost member, so what do you guys think of $3900 as it sits. That's with the egr, CP3, oil cooler, and water pump. As it is, it also needs one or both of the cams, as they got scuffed up from rockers, and a set of rockers. One of the cams I would personally use, the other I wouldn't, but who knows what someone else would do. I may have the cams in it shortly as I might have two in route soon, but not sure.

This is for a longblock, so it has heads, oil pan, valve cover, ect.
I think it's a premium product because it only has 88k on it, and there is zero ridge/wear mark in the cylinder sleeves, and this is with a tested good head.

And, of course, a person could just buy a complete crd kj that is junk, and gamble with an unknown engine for 5k or so, but I'm offering a good low mile engine...

KC-CRD · **Joined:** Wed Jan 28, 2015 2:20 pm **Posts:** 47

From my perspective, the biggest hurdle is the engine is not running and you are an individual. (no warranty) I'm currently looking at buying a second CRD that has a bad motor. (rod failed, block is damaged) So I have been doing quite a bit of research, and here is what I have found:

Used
eBay: around $4500 on motors with well over 100k miles on them.
Internet: $4200 with 80k miles, not sure if a core is required. 90 day warranty.
Local: $4800 with 115k or 130k, not sure if a core is required. 90 day warranty

Core
Local: $1800 with 100k, checking to see if it's rebuildable.

Rebuilt
Internet: $3500 with a $3500 core

New
Dealer #1: $7500 + tax, likely needs a $3500 core
Dealer #2: $6200 + tax and $3500 core

If Dealer #2 didn't need the core, I'd put in an order next week...

From an individual I'd be comfortable paying $4000 for a running engine. Mileage is less a concern than maintenance. My CRD is running good with 170k on it, and I've got two Ford 7.3s with 300k. I'd certainly want to do research on why the cams are damaged at 88k miles. But if I was local and could do a good inspection, I don't think $3900 is too bad.

From a seller's point of view, CRDs are hard to find so it's worth a premium. From a buyer's (mine), the availability is discouraging and the prices are probably sending too many of these jeeps to the crusher. As much as I hate to do it, I'm considering re-powering with a 3.7 and hoping for an opportunity to go back to diesel in the future. If you really want to be frustrated, look at eBay.uk. You could afford to be generous on the shipping if you can convince the EPA to allow it to be returned to the US.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Wed Jan 28, 2015 4:39 pm

many thanks for all the comps! The advantages to mine I see, is that you can see the wear internally, which speaks volumes on how the engine was maintained. And, you won't have to worry about the head because there will be a reputable machine shops tests and documents provided with the sale. I also have the car fax and I think another report that shows it was a one owner (prior to me putting 2k miles on it) jeep.

If you buy any engine used, and can't see the cylinder walls, or test the head, who's to say it even has good compression? Will they return your money if it has poor compression in one cylinder? Even if the compression is good, is there significant sleeve wear due to neglected oil changes?

I would sell the excellent running engine out my daily driver in a heartbeat, for 4k. It has 177k miles and pulls like a train. Then I could plop the 88k one in there and install the ARPs, and new rockers and be ahead of the game.

Hexus · **Posted:** Wed Jan 28, 2015 8:38 pm

You do realize the turbo itself is worth $1200 yes? Injectors aren't as bad as they once were, but you didn't mention those and they are $350 each roughly. The Cam Kit is $800 with gasket etc.

The Rockers are a must, and a single cam is around $220 with both being around $500... So that's another $700 for a used engine, not rebuilt.

So, to make this engine work:

Head install Kit: $240 (With TTY, NOT the better ARP Studs)

Rockers/Lifters and a Valve Cover Gasket: $400

Turbo: $1100 (Nothing but new works, they're $1100.)

Serp Belt + 2 Idler Rollers ($100) {pretty much required as you cannot verify the last time done}

Timing Belt Kit [Again, required as verification not present] $400

Cam Rebuild Kit $800 (All Valve Cover gaskets included in this kit so no extra $$ there, thank Jesus)

Injectors (x4) $350 is the best rebuilt price I've seen...

$4440 Plus Labor, Plus whatever they pay you for the block.

I think your block is probably worth $1000 as it sits. Honestly.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Wed Jan 28, 2015 10:10 pm

thanks for the insight, I definitely want to give a good price.

I'm not sure exactly what the longblock from Mopar includes, but I would include everything they do plus the CP3, EGR, oil cooler. If the cam is that much of a cost, I will just order the ones I've been looking at from the UK for cheap, and then that's not an issue, and I'll do the same for the rockers. After that, the cost of a head gasket and timing set is offset by the the CP3,oil cooler etc, and then they can spree for ARP's, or just use stock bolts I include. Conversely, if they don't need the CP3, I can just trim $500 (or whatever they cost) off for timing set and head gasket.
So, I'm just offering the same thing as mopar (plus 88k miles), for THOUSANDS less. About 3 thousand less if I'm not mistaken. That's almost half...

funnyman06 · **Joined:** Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:46 pm **Posts:** 180

To give an idea as to the value of a good long block, i just spent 4K in parts alone to get mine back together. Thats the cost of a new head, 4 new sleeves, rings, head studs, thermostat, glow plugs, and everything to put it back together. Not including any of the labor to tear it down, or have the shop check the head and find out its dead.

I think $3900 is a good deal for what seems to be a "good" engine.

Steevo · **Posted:** Thu Jan 29, 2015 5:37 pm

As a young guy making under $45k a year, threads like these make me seriously doubt my choice of a vehicle. As much as I love the little tractor I don't see how I could keep it on the road of I have a failure that did any serious damage (throw a rod for example)

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Jan 29, 2015 6:33 pm

First suggestion to anyone: Get a cheaper second (daily) driver, because these have can be somewhat unpredictable, and when something happens, you have to stop driving them until they are fixed or it gets REALLY expensive quickly.

If you are in South Carolina... You are close to me, so if you need anything done, I'm available.

Good Used CRD engine value

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