New CRD Owner

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Mar 17, 2015 11:43 am

Boomenstein wrote:

dirtmover wrote:

Boomenstein wrote:

So I mentioned the no good reports on rebuilding to the turbo guy and he laughed it off as Internet noise.
Why would you not be able to rebuild this turbo?

This a great question and the answer is that there is absolutely no reason. Just because the manufacturer doesn't offer a rebuild service or rebuild kits doesn't mean it can't be rebuilt. There are plenty examples of aftermarket parts and rebuilds that are better than OE but there are also plenty that are worse.

The real question is, there are a number of options out there, how do you know you're buying a quality rebuild?

That's what I was thinking, the shop I sent it to is very well known, cherry turbos, lots of great reviews on the web.

Sounds like you may have found us all a great source for a rebuild then! Time will tell. How much is the rebuild service? If it holds up for 10k please let us all know. I spent $1200 and then later parted-out a CRD and got the almost perfect extra one I'm sitting on :banghead:

$450 anyone? :ALONE:

Boomenstein · **Joined:** Thu Feb 05, 2015 12:59 am **Posts:** 31

Well got the turbo back and it looks good and feels tight

I had a bit of time this afternoon so I managed to get it bolted up, it was a pretty crappy job but I just wasn't able to get the bottom oil line on, think I need a second set of hands so I can attack it from the bottom while someone hold it in place from the top. I am hoping tomorrow to get some help.

The gasket on that oil line broke while I was trying to install it so I am hoping that some blue hi-temp silicone will work?

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Mar 25, 2015 8:08 am

Why don't you buy another one, or make your own? Not sure about the high temp silicon limits, but the temps in the turbo can be easy few good hundred degrees, even with oil going through.

Boomenstein · **Joined:** Thu Feb 05, 2015 12:59 am **Posts:** 31

Well I just ended up using silicone. See if it holds. That was an awful job! I finally just took the oil line off the block and took off the turbo again, the one turbo bolt was an absolute sensored word to get a wrench on with the oil line on but it's done...now need to do timing belt.

thermorex · **Posted:** Thu Mar 26, 2015 7:43 am

Turbo work sucks... I'll have to do it soon on the Crd too, I have a bit of play on the impeller. Let us know if the silicon holds, I'm very curious...

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Mar 26, 2015 7:54 am

The factory turbo drain tube is too rigid and difficult to reattach.
I had to loosen the turbo nuts to have some wiggle room for re attaching the drain tube.
Tried using silicone but was too messy so i just re used the old gasket.

ID parts has a replacement turbo drain tube that is flexible.

thermorex · **Posted:** Thu Mar 26, 2015 9:38 am

flash7210 wrote:

The factory turbo drain tube is too rigid and difficult to reattach.
I had to loosen the turbo nuts to have some wiggle room for re attaching the drain tube.
Tried using silicone but was too messy so i just re used the old gasket.

ID parts has a replacement turbo drain tube that is flexible.

I remember you posted this a while ago, thanks for the reminder, I'll have to get the flex tube ...

Boomenstein · **Joined:** Thu Feb 05, 2015 12:59 am **Posts:** 31

flash7210 wrote:

The factory turbo drain tube is too rigid and difficult to reattach.
I had to loosen the turbo nuts to have some wiggle room for re attaching the drain tube.
Tried using silicone but was too messy so i just re used the old gasket.

ID parts has a replacement turbo drain tube that is flexible.

Ya if my silicone leaks I may order that as well. So far not loving working on this motor, very awkward!

Boomenstein · **Joined:** Thu Feb 05, 2015 12:59 am **Posts:** 31

OK so I have ordered a weeks EGR delete so I figured I might as well take off the intake to clean it while I am at it but I am now worried I may have opened a can of worms here,

When I finally got the valve cover off a few of the rockers became dislodged. I am looking for opinions if these should be replaced?

This one became seperated from the lower half of the rocker.

a few of them popped out of the clips. I was able to reattach but a little concerned what will happen when the motor is running? If they have lost their integrity now

As well there is a lot of crap in these runners (intake?) on the head, particularly the second one.

I also found where I removed my injectors they had tons of crap on them, is this common in higher milage motors?

So Basically if you guys can take a look and give me your opinion, do I need new rockers? Or worse even do I need to take off the head to see how much crap is in the combustion chambers!

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

You need to replace any rocker arm that has play in the roller itself. The support pins tend to wear and allow the roller to move up/down. A new roller will only spin with no play.

Boomenstein · **Joined:** Thu Feb 05, 2015 12:59 am **Posts:** 31

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:

You need to replace any rocker arm that has play in the roller itself. The support pins tend to wear and allow the roller to move up/down. A new roller will only spin with no play.

So I checked these tonight and they have play in them, about 2-3mm up and down.
So I am gonna replace the rollers and get the arp head studs, I am not sure if I should do the head gasket...what do you guys think?

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

Was it losing coolant? If so, certainly replace the head gasket. Sounds like your rocker arms were wasted. This is a very common issue on engines with the factory tuning. Once it is back up and running, you should consider the GDE tune. The oil will stay much cleaner and the rockers will last the life of the engine.

Boomenstein · **Joined:** Thu Feb 05, 2015 12:59 am **Posts:** 31

Unfortunately I just bought the car and I am not sure. The previous owner seemed pretty honest.
When I bought it he said it needed a turbo and EGR which were both true.

I think I will leave the gasket and hope for the best, the way things are going if I open the head I might end doing a whole engine rebuild lol...

I want to order Glowplugs as well is there any way of telling if I have 5v or 7v without removing them?
I was hoping to order them today while at work.

As well I will most likely be getting the GDE tune, just need to make sure this thing runs and the budget recovers :shock:

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

7 volt stock ceramic glow plugs have a white isolator near plug end. 5 volt metallic have a red isolator. Not sure about the 7 volt etecno plugs.

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Apr 16, 2015 2:26 pm

Boomenstein wrote:

dirtmover wrote:

Boomenstein wrote:

So I mentioned the no good reports on rebuilding to the turbo guy and he laughed it off as Internet noise.
Why would you not be able to rebuild this turbo?

This a great question and the answer is that there is absolutely no reason. Just because the manufacturer doesn't offer a rebuild service or rebuild kits doesn't mean it can't be rebuilt. There are plenty examples of aftermarket parts and rebuilds that are better than OE but there are also plenty that are worse.

The real question is, there are a number of options out there, how do you know you're buying a quality rebuild?

That's what I was thinking, the shop I sent it to is very well known, cherry turbos, lots of great reviews on the web.

The cartridge is an easy rebuild - if the VVT section is not worn\damaged

If the VVT section is worn, the parts may be:
- unavailable
- expensive
- way over expensive if turbine snail also needs rework to accept new vanes
- way way over expensive if unrepairable turbine snail requires replacement

For dependability\warranty, more economically viable to replace entire assembly as a unit

Some very early units are waste-gated, so cartridge rebuild is viable and acceptable

Boomenstein · **Joined:** Thu Feb 05, 2015 12:59 am **Posts:** 31

Well I have done the rocker job but now this guy won't start.
I am noticing that after I try starting it the primer plunger on the filter head is soft. I am wondering if it's just air in the system. How many times is normal to have to prime it?

I have done like 8-10 times now.

Boomenstein · **Joined:** Thu Feb 05, 2015 12:59 am **Posts:** 31

Tried some more and I am not getting any air coming from the filter head, I also had some one crank it while I cracked each injector fuel line. I noticed fuel doesn't really spray from them just a kinda constant flow/dribble. Made a spray when I first crack it.

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon May 18, 2015 10:39 am

Check if the injector #4 electric plug is not mismatched with the rail pressure modulator (I think that's the name, at the end of the rail), you can plug them wrong by mistake, so the rail sensor can accept the injector #4 plug in it and vice-versa. If you have the connection properly done, then keep trying, crank for 5-10 seconds then wait for 10-20, so you won't fry the starter. It will start eventually but it takes a while as you need to represurize the rail and fuel lines plus purging the air. Also, it may help checking if the fuel pump has enough fuel and also help purging some of the air, first untie fuel line in injector #1 (radiator side), crank and see if you get fuel squinting through, then tie it back and untie #4 and do the same thing. Once you get fuel out, tie everything back and keep trying to start it normally, while allowing some time for glow plugs to heat up.

Boomenstein · **Joined:** Thu Feb 05, 2015 12:59 am **Posts:** 31

thermorex wrote:

Check if the injector #4 electric plug is not mismatched with the rail pressure modulator (I think that's the name, at the end of the rail), you can plug them wrong by mistake, so the rail sensor can accept the injector #4 plug in it and vice-versa. If you have the connection properly done, then keep trying, crank for 5-10 seconds then wait for 10-20, so you won't fry the starter. It will start eventually but it takes a while as you need to represurize the rail and fuel lines plus purging the air. Also, it may help checking if the fuel pump has enough fuel and also help purging some of the air, first untie fuel line in injector #1 (radiator side), crank and see if you get fuel squinting through, then tie it back and untie #4 and do the same thing. Once you get fuel out, tie everything back and keep trying to start it normally, while allowing some time for glow plugs to heat up.

Thanks for the reply. Ya #4 is correct wiring and I tried the cracking of injectors.
I do have a glow plug 2 low voltage code, I tried reseating the connectors and still the code. It's pretty warm here last couple days so I figured it would still start if one plug is not "glowing". Wonder if that is my problem?

Boomenstein · **Joined:** Thu Feb 05, 2015 12:59 am **Posts:** 31

Oh and when you say crank for 5-10 sec then wait 10-20. Do you mean wait 10-20 seconds or minutes. I was worried about burning my starter out yesterday so I was waiting several minutes in between.

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