Hey guys,
I have been looking over this site for a few months now and tonight I made the plunge and found myself a '06 Black CRD with a blown turbo, got it for $1000 with 2 sets of rims and tires.
High kms at 360k (Canada)
Now the owner said that he drove it for awhile with the turbo blown, he said it was just blowing a lot of smoke, he stopped when it started consuming oil.
as well he says the egr needs to be replaced which I plan on just deleting.

My question is what would you guys look at before I go and buy a turbo? Should I drop the oil pan or pull the valve cover? I don't want to buy a turbo to find out I need an engine, at that point it may be better to just sell this for parts and find a running CRD.

Any thoughts?

When I looked at it it had a dead battery, he is charging it up so when I come pick it up I can hear it run first, with the turbo gone is it a bad idea to even start the motor?

Check the oil level and see if oil is leaking from the Turbo.

These things blow a lot of smoke if one of the CAC hoses going to the intercooler and back to the intake has come off or has a split in it. Also the rubber pipe from the airbox outlet to the turbo input can split.
Worth deleting the EGR and you probably have a lot of junk in the intake from an EGR that has been running for so long.

Also worth getting codes pulled out and making sure when the timing belt was last changed...needs changing every 160,000 kms or 6 years at least.

I will leave it to the Turbo experts here on how to check if a turbo is bad...could be stuck vanes or something else that stops the turbo working properly and not the turbo itself.

Also bear in mind that LHD 2006 CRDs are known to have a problem with the wires going behind the fuel filter head being crimped down to the chassis and causing all sorts of problems...definitely worth your while to remove the filter head mounting bracket and have a good look at the wiring behind there...if not for this problem then for possible future problems

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

The Turbo is not required to start the engine, I would plug the oil supply line to the turbo and start it to see how it sounds before I started pulling the pan or the valve cover that is going to take about 10+ hrs to do. Drain the oil and check for chips, and maybe get an oil sample analysis?

X2 on what Bill Wil said, if it is just stuck vanes it would not harm the engine internals.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Awesome tips guys thanks, I pick it up tomorrow so hopefully if weather is okay this weekend I will start tearing into it.

I have been building old VW's for years and they have a very strong online community to help. I am happy to see such a strong support for my new car adenture!

So,I got the jeep today. It runs at drives well so that's good!

There is a steady oil drip coming from some at the back of the motor, I was not able to get under there to look yet.

I did notice the intercooler pipe from the turbo is all wrapped up.

As well I asked the seller when was the last timing belt and he said all proud that it has never needed one lol. So this thing has the original timing belt

Here's another pic of the same pipe.

Turbo is probably fine. They blow most of the oil out of the engine if they are used until failure, and then the engine is toast. I wouldn't run the engine until you have a new timing belt, pulleys, water pump, tensioner pulley, rockers, and ARP head studs. This is if it has zero water in the overflow part of the reservoir. You might do the 30 second test to make sure there's no pressure prior to tearing into it, just so you can do the head gasket also if it leaks.
If there is significant play in the turbo shaft, I would also replace that ASAP. Turbos are $1100 new, or I have an excellent used one if you are interested. Not sure if shipping a turbo to Canada would be a problem.
Oil leak is probably rear main seal, and you can change that when you put in an upgraded torque converter to handle your GDE tune, if you want to get much better mileage and power anyhow.
I would also buy Turbo diesel freaks thermostat, or modify your stock one to accept a standard stat, otherwise your mileage and heat will be garbage.
I'd also check the front dif fluid asap as people aren't used to these modern 4x4's that have the dif in action all of the time, and they end up toast.

Good luck with it!

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

Sounds like this guy had no clue on maintenance for these machines.

Like mountain stated. If the turbo failed and engine ran for more than 30 seconds afterwards than there would be bottom end damage. First thing, get yourself a timing belt kit and switch that out.
Do all the stuff mentioned above and also buy samco hoses and also a new airbox to turbo hose

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

For what it's worth:
1. 360,000kms equals ca. 224,000 miles - there is no way that's the original OEM timing belt. That said since the previous owner never changed it you have no clue how old it is unless you can go back thru the ownership change and/or a CarFax report and determine when it was changed. Absent proof of when it was changed I would not drive it without doing a full TB job (parts kit from idparts - http://idparts.com/catalog/product_info ... 58eb66891d - get the Graf water pump and remember only the front half of the OEM wp needs to be replaced). Weeks101 rents tools.
2. similarly he did not drive it for a while with a "blown" turbo. If in fact the turbo was blown he would not have made it more than 1/2 a mile as others have commented. I suspect he drove it for a while with litter power and assumed a blown turbo. Reasons for little power - a) torn or soggy with oil CAC hoses and yours look horrible - replace with Samcos; b) stuck variable vanes (per GDE "You can check the vane functionality at idle in park. Underneath the vacuum actuator on the turbo is rod extending downward connected to the vane mechanism. If you pull off the vacuum line at the turbo, the arm should drop about 1/2 inch and then raise back up after reconnecting the vacuum line. It is a bit difficult to see the rod, but this is the easiest method to check for proper VGT vane movement."); bad boost pressure solenoid (thing on black tower behind air filter box with tiny "lawn mower" filter hanging off bottom); clogged air filter or that filter off the boost pressure solenoid.
3. with turbo CAC hose off pull turbo to air filter hose (probably torn on bottom - replace - http://idparts.com/catalog/product_info ... ts_id=3804 - be sure upper end on hose touches MAF sensor before tightening clamp and don't godzilla it or you will crush the airbox outlet) if torn that's likely your oil leak. While off check turbo "fan" for play - if good there will be 0 to a tiny amount of fore/aft play and 0 to barely perceptible side to side play - more than that then turbo needs replacing (quality ones run ca. $1,200 avoid "deals" at $600)
4. may just be my eyes but that upper radiator hose looks "fat" as if it's soft and needs replacing.
5. best do a thorough degreasing of the engine - warm engine up just a bit (not full operating temp), spray on degreaser; let sit; RINSE off (no blasting with water unless you "enjoy" chasing shorted wiring plugs); repeat as needed until clean. Now you can really look for the source of leaks as opposed to where stuff from leakks got blown while driving.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thanks for the tips guys, yeah he said that someone told him the turbo is gone then he still drove it for a couple weeks so sounds like it isn't the turbo. That would be super great if it wasn't.

Now I just have to wait for the snow to stop here in Ontario and I can get at it.
Gonna start ordering my timing belt parts

That's an incredible price, even if you just ended up using it for parts. Congrats and welcome!

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Ok so finally started tearing into this guy. So in preparing to do the timing belt I took the road of removing the IC and rad, all the front oil mess is from the IC leaking, I cleaned it up and hopefully after the soap suds method I can plug the leak with JB weld. That looks like an expensive part!

Here is the timing belt.

I see marks so I am assuming that the original owner must have had the belt changed prior to selling it, still puts it at 25k over due. The red dust is a little scary.

As well the good news is I found the oil drip, it was a punctured oil filter!
The bad news the turbo is totally shot, it has huge shaft play and there is even a small chunk out of a fin on the inlet side.

Sending it away for a rebuild.

Good score and you might as well go ahead and pull the intake to inspect the rocker arms and do a thorough cleaning of the intake. I'm at about the same point as you are as I've purchased a fixer upper and have started working on it.

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2016 Ram 2500 4x4, 6.7 Cummins, 68RFE, Crew Cab
1995 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4, 5.9 Cummins, 47RH, Reg Cab
2005 Liberty CRD,fixed the rockers and a couple more things,GDE Hot tune,Weeks Stage 1 and 2 EGR delete,Hot Diesel solutions Tstat assembly(wonderful heat!), ARP studs, OME 1.5" lift.....thanks Seth!

There haven't been any good reports on rebuilding these, and they can take the engine out when they go, so I'd rather pay $1200 again for a new one, then chance a rebuild

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

So I mentioned the no good reports on rebuilding to the turbo guy and he laughed it off as Internet noise.
Why would you not be able to rebuild this turbo?
A new would be $1500 up here or 3800 from Chrysler lol

This a great question and the answer is that there is absolutely no reason. Just because the manufacturer doesn't offer a rebuild service or rebuild kits doesn't mean it can't be rebuilt. There are plenty examples of aftermarket parts and rebuilds that are better than OE but there are also plenty that are worse.

The real question is, there are a number of options out there, how do you know you're buying a quality rebuild?

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Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

I posted a while ago about having someone who is a plastic welding wizard who is looking for a cracked KJ CRD IC to repair on a prototype basis. Would you like to potentially get a free repair that should last longer than a new IC?

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

That's what I was thinking, the shop I sent it to is very well known, cherry turbos, lots of great reviews on the web.

This sounds great but I am in Ontario so the shipping might kill me, where is the wizard located?

I'm sorry . . . .

JK, I love mine, its a great all around vehicle.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs