Engine Oil light

Greasey Bob · **Joined:** Tue Dec 14, 2010 3:34 am **Posts:** 228

Today while I was working as a delivery driver the engine oil light came on. I was due for an oil change at 190k miles and it had 189600 miles. I stopped right away and checked the oil and it could have been a little low and it was a little dirty but nothing out of the ordinary considering it had 4600 miles on the oil. I added about 3/4 quart of oil and the light came on still but only at idle drive speed it was fine. I stopped and got oil and filter and engine flush at the store drove home 5 minutes with the flush in the oil. Then changed the oil turned it on and the light went out. Then 30 seconds later it came back on. It does run perfectly normal.

Is the oil pump clogged? Is the sensor bad? Is the engine blowing up? Is the pickup screen clogged? What should I do now?

Robert

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Thu Feb 12, 2015 12:40 am

The oil pressure sensor right next to oil filter has been known to cause this problem. Not sure on how to test it though.

Greasey Bob · **Joined:** Tue Dec 14, 2010 3:34 am **Posts:** 228

I replaced the sensor first thing this morning and the problem went away. When I checked the oil after the light went on. It looked thick and gummy that is why I added a little engine flush. That is the second flush in 120k miles since I owned it, not to bad.

I was thinking that my Jeep has been so trouble free that one day it was just going to have major catastrophic failure without notice. I am getting real close to the 200k mile "tune" up. I am not looking forward to that but it has been a great vehicle.

Rob

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Feb 12, 2015 6:10 pm

The sensor is worthless - if the engine is still running and the light is on, the sensor is bad. If the light is on and the sensor isn't bad... Then engine just finished destroying itself and that light is the least of your problems.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Feb 14, 2015 4:35 am

Bob.... I do not have an answer as to what the problem is with the oil light but I will say the following about your engine flushing practice.

Driving the vehicle with the engine flush in the oil mix is a very dangerous thing to do.

I learned my lesson 35 years ago. I poured the flushing solution in the motor of my 124 spider and instead of letting the engine idle for 5 minutes before draining the oil, I decided to drive the vehicle around the block. It had a catastrophic effect, I must have traveled no more than 2 miles before the engine seized. I never did that again.

Moral to the story:

1. When flushing the motor, follow the written direction and only idle the motor for 5 minutes before draining the oil.

2. When flushing the motor, never do it under load, never drive the vehicle.

I still flush my engines but follow the directions to a "T"

Bob, On a different note, I would like to know if you are still making your own fuel and if so, how many miles on your CRD running on Biodiesel?

Greasey Bob · **Joined:** Tue Dec 14, 2010 3:34 am **Posts:** 228

I live in bad traffic Florida and my drive home was 5 minutes of idle time. Everything is fine.

About the grease. I have 120k grease miles and I do not make biodiesel. I run a well built two tank system. I start on diesel and then when hot I switch to WVO. I started a new job as a delivery driver two weeks ago and am now using 60 gallons a week, I filled the diesel tank 2/1/15 and now have 2300 miles on Jeep and still have 1/2 tank of diesel left. I have a very good filtering system. And I have two good sources of WVO. There are currently 192k miles on my Jeep and I am getting ready for the major tune up (every 100k). TB,WP, Coolant, Thermostat, transmission fluid, diff, I was even considering head bolts. I also need new tires. And I am betting the rear brakes go soon. Best grease vehicle ever.

rancherman · **Posted:** Tue Feb 17, 2015 10:08 pm

Dead of winter is when I've seen more sensors die.. Although Fla is pretty nice this time of year!!

Thick oil and the resulting higher pressure kills off battle worn sensors every time!
fyi, expect HALF the service life of the replacement sensor!

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2015 3:57 am

Half the service life?

But it says on the package, "PROFESSIONALLY Made in China". That must mean it is better than the one that is just "Made in China"

Or, like everything else from Communist China... It is crap in a box. Good luck getting a good one, but you can always just give them more money and buy another one. :banghead:

Frankly, the service life is unimportant. The placement of that sensor guarantees that it will N.E.V.E.R. alert you to a real problem, until you have already discovered the failure through many more obvious indicators. Things like your engine sounding like rocks in a blender and violently shaking.

FYI: The light will be off when this is happening.

rancherman · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2015 10:47 am

geordi wrote:

Half the service life?

But it says on the package, "PROFESSIONALLY Made in China". That must mean it is better than the one that is just "Made in China"

Or, like everything else from Communist China... It is crap in a box. Good luck getting a good one, but you can always just give them more money and buy another one. :banghead:

Frankly, the service life is unimportant. The placement of that sensor guarantees that it will N.E.V.E.R. alert you to a real problem, until you have already discovered the failure through many more obvious indicators. Things like your engine sounding like rocks in a blender and violently shaking.

FYI: The light will be off when this is happening.

LOL, light usually comes on just as the engine seizes... hence- idiot light..

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2015 12:07 pm

Greasey Bob wrote:

Is the oil pump clogged? Is the sensor bad? Is the engine blowing up? Is the pickup screen clogged? What should I do now?
Robert

Just curious, what weight and brand of oil are you running? Any additives? :?:

Greasey Bob · **Joined:** Tue Dec 14, 2010 3:34 am **Posts:** 228

I use the European car formula of Mobil 1. Mostly because it was called for and my Mercedes used the same stuff. Turns out it is cheaper than the Rotella T-6 also. I probably do not need to use it anymore since I gave the Mercedes to my brother, but it has worked good for 100k miles I usually change it every 5k miles. If it looks extra thick or black I change it early. It gets black really quickly! I think the rear main seal drips oil on my driveway. I probably overfilled it using the oversized filter.

GliderGuy · **Joined:** Mon Mar 10, 2014 12:53 am **Posts:** 12

'05 Liberty CRD, 127 k miles, same symptoms. Changing the sensor fixed it. But oh, that connector. That's a puzzle. Maybe it's common knowledge, or I'm uncommonly dumb, but working that connector should be documented somewhere on this site. I ended up buying a new connector and hooking it up to the old removed sensor in order to figure it out. Then I took the connector back.

Engine Oil light

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