coolant loss

rancherman · **Posted:** Mon Feb 16, 2015 2:28 pm

loosing about a quart in 1000 miles. (or whatever it takes to top it off soon as the LO COOL light comes on)

Is there any certain area that is prone to a leak... to check first?
I'm hoping it's just our super cold and aging hoses that seep at the clamps when cold.
LOL< my lil puffer was a S Texas vehicle, and been shiver'n for the past 4 months!

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Feb 16, 2015 2:38 pm

Is the overflow end (the driver's side end of the main tank) full of water? It should be dry.

If that is full and you are still losing coolant, it could be a head gasket, or it could be a radiator cap. The cap is cheaper (obviously) and they DO wear out, so try replacing that first and see if the water loss changes. If not... Then it is most likely the head gasket. The way to verify this is with an exhaust gas test kit, IIRC they are like $20 at Napa.

If the leak isn't a huge one, ARP studs might offer a solution, and should be done anyway. But if the gas tester shows that you have exhaust in the water... Then that head gasket probably should be replaced to be absolutely certain, and then put ARP studs on top of it.

rancherman · **Posted:** Mon Feb 16, 2015 5:17 pm

geordi wrote:

Is the overflow end (the driver's side end of the main tank) full of water? It should be dry.

If that is full and you are still losing coolant, it could be a head gasket, or it could be a radiator cap. The cap is cheaper (obviously) and they DO wear out, so try replacing that first and see if the water loss changes. If not... Then it is most likely the head gasket. The way to verify this is with an exhaust gas test kit, IIRC they are like $20 at Napa.

If the leak isn't a huge one, ARP studs might offer a solution, and should be done anyway. But if the gas tester shows that you have exhaust in the water... Then that head gasket probably should be replaced to be absolutely certain, and then put ARP studs on top of it.

Overflow compartment is empty. Should mean I'm not getting compression back through the cooling, correct?
Just turned 80k this weekend, and am gathering parts for this Spring's timing belt renewal..
I'll crawl under there on the next warmer day and really scope it out.. looking for tell tale signs of coolant trails.
Wow, didn't know there was a DIY gas sniffer! Thanks

flman · **Posted:** Mon Feb 16, 2015 5:20 pm

Pull the rad cap off first thing tomorrow morning before you start it, there should be absolutely no pressure, a little vacuum is no problem.

rancherman · **Posted:** Mon Feb 16, 2015 7:19 pm

flman wrote:

Pull the rad cap off first thing tomorrow morning before you start it, there should be absolutely no pressure, a little vacuum is no problem.

Good idea! Thanks, I'll let ya know what I find.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 16, 2015 7:42 pm

I have been dealing with the same thing since november.
Have replaced several leaky clamps and hoses.
Its inconsistent and still slowly loosing coolant. No visible drips.
Gonna have to try adding some UV dye to the coolant to see if that will reveal the leak.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 17, 2015 12:59 am

I tried several variants of exaust gas in coolant testers. All proved negative. Still needed head gasket.

DOC

rancherman · **Posted:** Tue Feb 17, 2015 5:42 pm

Well, this morning I popped the radiator cap off, and had zero vacuum or pressure. Makes sense, I got a leak!

Then I dove under the Lib and seen the CV boot was wet on the passenger side, and followed the trail up. The plastic filler between the skid and inner fender is soaked.. That is far as I got, LOL, it's COLD today!!
So I'd imagine somewhere around the thermostat housing is the area to investigate..
Hoping it's just a dumb hose that didn't get sealed up very well when I did the stat this fall!

I've read most HG leaks tend to be in the rear corners?? (with this engine) T/F??

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Feb 17, 2015 6:40 pm

All sorts of hoses in that area. Do not forget the hoses to the oil cooler done on the side of the engine in front of the turbo.

flman · **Posted:** Tue Feb 17, 2015 7:12 pm

Well, no pressure is good news assuming the rad cap is in good condition.

rancherman · **Posted:** Tue Feb 17, 2015 10:12 pm

flman wrote:

Well, no pressure is good news assuming the rad cap is in good condition.

Looked ok!

Hammy713 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2015 6:10 am

Okay, I just found a leak also around the t-stat housing using UV dye. However, I'm not sure exactly what "it" is? Its leaking from a seam directly under the housing. It looks to me like it could be part of the wheel the serpentine belt goes around that is right under the t-stat. Is that the water pump? Its on the upper left (passenger) side of the engine opposite of the alternator.

Rocky05 · **Joined:** Fri May 17, 2013 11:38 pm **Posts:** 44

Hammy713 wrote:

Okay, I just found a leak also around the t-stat housing using UV dye. However, I'm not sure exactly what "it" is? Its leaking from a seam directly under the housing. It looks to me like it could be part of the wheel the serpentine belt goes around that is right under the t-stat. Is that the water pump? Its on the upper left (passenger) side of the engine opposite of the alternator.

Viscous heater. Look a few threads lower down on this forum for a thread on the bearing replacement.

Hammy713 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2015 12:11 pm

Rocky05 wrote:

Viscous heater. Look a few threads lower down on this forum for a thread on the bearing replacement.

Thank you!

coolant loss

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