When confronted with these at the same time;
motor mounts are shot.
TC upgrade PLUS shift kit (complete kit)
Possible HG change/stud install
TB/water pump

Would I be ahead to yank the whole shebang?
I've always dreaded doing a head on ANYTHING still in the vehicle. It's hard on my back, difficult to keep parts sanitary..

I was scolded in yotatech for pulling my motor just to do the head, but I reasoned it was time to do the clutch too. I separated the engine, fixed it, and re attached the trans outside the truck so it went in as one piece.

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2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'

Honestly, by the time you get the head off, your only another hour away from pulling the whole thing. The liberty is small enough that it's not that bad to get to everything, the hardest part for me was getting the valve cover/ intake off and back on. It takes a little bit of maneuvering but isn't too bad.
I remember when mine was stripped down I thought how easy it would be too pull it.

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05 Liberty Limited CRD, converted to KPA 2863 ball bearing and billet turbo, 50hp injectorsl, complete egr delete, cooling fan delete, weeks intake kit, cummins in tank lift pump, ARP studs, 3" turbo back exhaust, samcos, etecno plugs, GDE trans tune, custom GDE engine tune.

Rancherman,

I have a similar concern. I have a spare engine from the first CRD. I wrecked it and bought it back from the insurance company. I have the rockers on hand and the EGR kit too. Will need the TB kit and I'm good to go.
Having the engine out would certainly make the work a bunch easier... at least it sounds like it.

Tom

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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Build Date May '05
OME lift kit
Samco hoses
Weeks Stage 1
PMF EGR plug kit
ARP Stud
Cracked CAC repaired with epoxy filler

If you are doing the head, you are going to have to unplug most of the electrical harness any ways, so you might as well pull the rad, condenser and intercooler and pull the engine and tranny out in one shot.

_________________
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Been doing this for going on 30 yrs, and it hasn't gotten any easier. More crap to disconnect, (and remember how to hook back up) More stuff that just can't be undone until 12 other things are removed first...
For me, time isn't as important as quality, and it's the little things that need double, triple checked as an engine goes back together.. and when it's centered in a vehicle, it's not easy. I tend to not sleep at night wondering if a blob of crap dropped in just as I swung the head into position!

My yota engine and trans really didn't need to come out. But for me, being alone, was a snap to re attach the trans on the ground, and hoist the whole thing back in. It needed clutch work too.
I snared the head off first, then the short block came out. trans came later. Probably do it this way on the Libby. LOL, one thing that this Lib doesn't have, compared to the YO, is a major wiring harness that is threaded though a web on the intake manifold.. dumbest thing I've ever seen, No disconnect, or splitter. wires went from the ecm, (under the dash) then ran the fuel injection, knock sensor, temp, oil pressure, starter, then wound down even deeper for neutral clutch start, 4X4 sensor, and reverse light. ALL ONE nasty birds nest! The intake stayed in the truck's inner fender when engine was out!

_________________
2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'

I'm facing the same dilemma.
I have to replace my head gasket but I also want to replace the torque converter.
Should I pull the motor and leave the transmission in?
Or should I drop the trans and leave the engine block in?

I should probably replace the motor mounts too, so that makes me think I should pull the engine.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

I'm going with;
Strip the engine down to the short block. (this will make it certain ALL wires and hoses are disconnected.) This is my first stab with this vehicle, so it will be longer anyway..
Then pull remaining engine away from trans.
Do the trans work while the trans is still in vehicle, (unless trans needs to be vertical for front pump re install) which then would mean removing the trans too.
Work on engine and have buttoned back up for the reattachment to trans... Either as a whole unit if trans was completely out for work, or just swing the engine back into bay and reattach there. Automatics are easier to mate back up this way.
You are facing the same 'multi tasking' as me. Doing about 4 different things at once. Makes sense to me to yank it out.

_________________
2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'

Did the TC and front pump a few years ago by dropping the trans. It does not need to be vertical to do the front pump so I don't see any reason why this can't be done with the engine removed/trans in place.

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2011 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins Deleted w/MiniMaxx G56 HDD 5W-30 & Bypass Oil Filter
2005 Liberty CRD Limited (Cracked Block) Sold
2015 Cherokee Latitude 3.2L V6 (Replaced CRD)
1992 Dodge Stealth RT Twin Turbo Pearl White/Black Leather
2008 Kubota GR2110 Diesel
2006 Key West 186 Sportsman w/135HP Honda OB
1943 Farmall H Restored

Based on my experience pulling the head off my engine before realizing the whole thing needed to come out, I'd say pull the engine out as a long block. There are quite a few pain in the booty steps to removing the head that become simple when the engine it out.

Mike

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2005 Liberty CRD Limited
DIY Garage Remanufactured Engine with GDE Full Torque Eco Tune from mile zero.
ARP Studs
Cummins Lift Pump
Transgo HD2 Reprogramming Kit
DIY Rebuilt Tranny Pump
Suncoast Torque Converter
2nd Generation Fuel Head
Sears P1 Battery
Hot Diesel Solutions Thermostat

gotcha! noted and filed for future reference! Thanks!

_________________
2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'

My vote is to pull if time is not a factor. Get help to pull and replace. Clean shots on breaking factory bolts. No lost tools. Great lighting. Room to use impact. Clean and paint. Egr/cooler replete is easier. Sit on a stool and roll round it. Set up a coule of sawhorses and lay on sheet of plywood. Tools, nuts and bolts, parts all in place if u don t get back to it for awhile.

Definitely strip down to short block!, just got done pulling mine and it made getting to bell housing bolts soooo much easier!

X2 to what Bevis said, and it's easy to pick the block with 4 head bolts. The cheap load leveler from harbor freight really helps make it a smooth operation also.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete