cold start issue video

mustang_gt_350 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am **Posts:** 191

I posted a good while ago about my cold starting issue. Running 7v ectno's that are about 3-4 months old (due to bad batch of ecno's that had only lasted 3 months). And INmotion stage 2 tune.

I never really had any problems with it starting unless it was below zero as in around -20 or so. The only time i can remember it not starting it was about -25 and in a parking lot on a hill with frontal wind. And it started i just had to jump it to keep it charged up while trying. I installed the euro TC, shift kit, new GP's because i had a bad ceramic one and figured i would swap them all since i had it torn apart and it was late spring so i would'nt have problems later in the fall/winter. This was in the spring of 2014. Now i'm having issues with it wanting to fire when its below 20deg. I don't know if its a tuning issue with startup timing, or whats going on but i'm lost. I'm almost ready to try to find another ECU and see if stock tuning will fix the problem. I'm tired of having to plug it in all of the time, and then wonder after it sits a while at places it can't be plugged in if it will start.

And before its blamed on a bad fuel issue, the jetta is running fuel from the same stations all winter and it will start at -15 without being plugged in.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTeyk253TBs

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Fri Feb 27, 2015 9:51 am

This is the same issue I have with mine with the 5v Bosch GP's. I have found that if you don't touch the accelerator while cranking, and for a few seconds after it spits and sputters to life after cranking, it is easier to get it going. I have also tried vigorously pumping the accelerator while cranking (not sure why it would help with it being a "drive by wire" system), but that seems to help. Either way, it is annoying... :banghead:

mustang_gt_350 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am **Posts:** 191

MRausch82 wrote:

This is the same issue I have with mine with the 5v Bosch GP's. I have found that if you don't touch the accelerator while cranking, and for a few seconds after it spits and sputters to life after cranking, it is easier to get it going. I have also tried vigorously pumping the accelerator while cranking (not sure why it would help with it being a "drive by wire" system), but that seems to help. Either way, it is annoying... :banghead:

I never touched the throttle in the vid. I figure the ECU is already trying ot up the RPM to where it needs the peddle won't do anything more.

I'm leaning towards it being the steel GP's and not tuning. Whatever the cause, its still super aggervating when my darn beater TDI will fire and my jeep won't.

I may have to install another battery for next year and see if i can put my old powerstroke intake heater in place on a relay and maybe that will help.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Fri Feb 27, 2015 5:58 pm

After this winter, I have seriously started looking for a diesel pickup truck to replace the CRD. I could use a higher towing capacity anyhow. Since we have moved, I don't put nearly the mileage on the CRD that I once did. If I put 10K a year on it now, I am lucky. I have put just under 8K miles on it this past year. Haven't looked too hard yet, however. My 5-month old son has gotten most of my attention lately

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

The repeated start attempts without cycling the key and waiting about 5 seconds, will not be of much help. The glow pushing phase only occurs at key-on for the first couple seconds. After that it goes to a maintenance voltage.

Try this:

key-on wait 5 seconds. key off wait 5 seconds, key-on wait 4-5 seconds and crank. This tends to help the start a bit.

The fueling is open loop control until engine reaches idle setpoint and then the accelerator becomes active.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Fri Feb 27, 2015 6:21 pm

Good advice. I will try this myself tomorrow. It is supposed to be single digit lows here tonight, and I have to head out early in the AM and plan to take the CRD. We will see what happens...

flman · **Posted:** Fri Feb 27, 2015 6:39 pm

I am not liking the locool light, brings back memories of the Sport with a blown head gasket.

mustang_gt_350 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am **Posts:** 191

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:

The repeated start attempts without cycling the key and waiting about 5 seconds, will not be of much help. The glow pushing phase only occurs at key-on for the first couple seconds. After that it goes to a maintenance voltage.

Try this:

key-on wait 5 seconds. key off wait 5 seconds, key-on wait 4-5 seconds and crank. This tends to help the start a bit.

The fueling is open loop control until engine reaches idle setpoint and then the accelerator becomes active.

Ok. i will try this. But I never had to do any extra key cycles before to get it to start.

I wasn't aware of the way the GP's are controlled. I thought they were on full until they were shut off a few seconds after it had been running.

mustang_gt_350 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am **Posts:** 191

Tried it this morning. doing the double key cycle. It stumbled and shut off. So i repeated the key cycles. On the 4th try it stoped cranking.. Looks like i may be having a battery issue. I'm sure thats not helping the GP's heat while its being cranked

I will pull the big battery out of the jetta and try it after i do the wheel bearings if i feel like it. Working outside, 8 degree's since the garage is full of "projects" lol

mustang_gt_350 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am **Posts:** 191

flman wrote:

I am not liking the locool light, brings back memories of the Sport with a blown head gasket.

Its been leaking for about 3 years now. I have to add about every 3 months. It goes into play with my first thermostat replacement, so i'm wondering if its not leaking from there and i can't see it due to the cluster of crap around the "housing". Anyway, at this point i don't care. It hasn't gotten any worse and its not holding any extra pressure, or boiling over. It its not bleeding any pressure down after a shutdown. I'll deal with it if it gets worse.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Sat Feb 28, 2015 10:17 pm

I tried this morning as well. Didn't help one bit. What a PITA.

mustang_gt_350 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am **Posts:** 191

MRausch82 wrote:

I tried this morning as well. Didn't help one bit. What a PITA.

I figured it wouldn't help that much, but it was worth a shot. I'll try to put the bigger battery in it this week and try it again. The one thats in it may be a little weaker since its a few years old and small.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 01, 2015 3:55 pm

mustang_gt_350 wrote:

MRausch82 wrote:

I tried this morning as well. Didn't help one bit. What a PITA.

I figured it wouldn't help that much, but it was worth a shot. I'll try to put the bigger battery in it this week and try it again. The one thats in it may be a little weaker since its a few years old and small.

I have a DieHard P1 battery in mine. I even had it tested thinking that maybe it was marginal. Nope. Not the battery in my case. This here is a case of faulty engineering.

LazyK · **Posted:** Sun Mar 01, 2015 9:43 pm

I would sure like to know a solution. temps below 25 its almost assured not to start. plugged in the block heater last night over night temps in the low single digits. knew better that to try early this morning so about noon and a temp of 23, gave it a try and it would not start. New Etechno 7v GP. It has gotten worse with time. It's not fuel, I buy fuel for my Ram Cummings at the same place and it starts with out fail.
If I can not find a solution I'll be forced to sell it. I can not risk my daughter getting stranded in Seattle next school year

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 02, 2015 3:59 pm

LazyK wrote:

I would sure like to know a solution. temps below 25 its almost assured not to start. plugged in the block heater last night over night temps in the low single digits. knew better that to try early this morning so about noon and a temp of 23, gave it a try and it would not start. New Etechno 7v GP. It has gotten worse with time. It's not fuel, I buy fuel for my Ram Cummings at the same place and it starts with out fail.
If I can not find a solution I'll be forced to sell it. I can not risk my daughter getting stranded in Seattle next school year

Same issue that I have. My wife is a nurse for the state and is considered essential personnel. She won't drive it in the winter anymore for fear of it not starting after her shift which ends at 11pm. I have the Bosch 5v "updated" plugs in mine. I have been looking at 4x4 Chevy trucks. Would like more towing capability anyhow, and the issue with the CRD starting in the winter has pushed me to look more and more.

LazyK · **Posted:** Tue Mar 03, 2015 9:14 am

Could this be a problem of low fuel rail pressure, poor atomization of the fuel? Is rail pressure monitored by the OBD? what about soot build up in the intake from the EGR? Just thoughts thrown out by a Catapiller Diesel mechanic

mustang_gt_350 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:47 am **Posts:** 191

LazyK wrote:

Could this be a problem of low fuel rail pressure, poor atomization of the fuel? Is rail pressure monitored by the OBD? what about soot build up in the intake from the EGR? Just thoughts thrown out by a Catapiller Diesel mechanic

Its not a clogged intake. I scoped it in the spring when i did my EGR removal kit. And i don't think its a low rail pressure because it starts up fine if its plugged in, and the same with when its warmer outside around 30 degrees. I just think its the crappy GP system engineering. I believe the steel GP's aren't as hot as the ceramics and since it was designed to run ceramics its effects starting about 20 or so degrees earlier with the steel

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 03, 2015 8:33 pm

mustang_gt_350 wrote:

LazyK wrote:

Could this be a problem of low fuel rail pressure, poor atomization of the fuel? Is rail pressure monitored by the OBD? what about soot build up in the intake from the EGR? Just thoughts thrown out by a Catapiller Diesel mechanic

Its not a clogged intake. I scoped it in the spring when i did my EGR removal kit. And i don't think its a low rail pressure because it starts up fine if its plugged in, and the same with when its warmer outside around 30 degrees. I just think its the crappy GP system engineering. I believe the steel GP's aren't as hot as the ceramics and since it was designed to run ceramics its effects starting about 20 or so degrees earlier with the steel

+1.

cold start issue video

Who is online