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 Post subject: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to LOST!
PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 10:45 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 05, 2014 12:22 pm
Posts: 365
Location: north central Nebraska
Got the dreaded phone call yesterday. Wife called and said the lib conked out.
She coasted down from 60, to slow enough for the exit coming off a curve, and it started sputtering and eventually croaked..

So the dodge and flat bed to the rescue!! First thing I tried when I showed up was to check the fuel... filterhead had a LOT of air. Bled it off and tried. It gave me a couple of good pops when cranking, then nothing.. Checked the fuel.. same thing again..
Test is over and trailer is backed up to Jeep.
Son in in front winching away and I'm walking around the Jeep keeping tabs on the progress, Once the arse end of the jeep is about nose high, I see fresh (wet and clean.. no dust stuck to it yet) fuel leak down the drivers rear brake inner shield .
Hoping this is the fuel line/quick connect/ doesn't like suction/time to eliminate/ type of fix!

_________________
2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 11:51 am 
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Location: Tallahassee, Florida
It could be leaky quick disconnect(s) which would explain the lots of air and if the disconnect(s) are sufficiently bad you could be pulling so much air from the back that the CPU is unable to pull fuel. It's also possible that the clean fuel leak is from the tank vent but only if the tank was pretty full.

Lots of folks really love the in tank pump and that's a decent idea but IMHO opinion a bit of overkill and an unneeded expense given that the underlying problem is leaky quick disconnects (designed to seal under pressure in the gasser system but tend to leak air on the diesel system where the fuel pump is in the front) NOT the CP3 location. Front mounted "puller" pumps have been around for decades on gas and diesel vehicles (back in the olden days for the simple reason that electric fuel pumps in fuel tank = "boom" before adequate wire sealing) with no problem but that was when fuel lines were solid pipe/hose from tank to pump.

Assuming the disconnect(s) are leaking check out http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/ on how to disconnect and drop tank. Purchase about 12-18" of quality (not discount auto stuff) marine grade diesel rated fuel hose in the proper size (last I saw runs about $5 a foot at a boat store) and 4 hose clamps. Drop tank (if the tank is pretty full you will need to remove excess fuel - siphon works but it slow; alternative get an Airtex E3158 or Airtex E3309 or NAPA AFP E3309 or Facet 40109 fuel pump (all are low PSI and flow thru - e.g. if pump fails the CPP3 can still pull fuel) to help pump the tank; that pump can later be installed either in the back toward the tank or in the engine (http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/kennedy.htm or viewtopic.php?f=5&t=24527&hilit=automatic) bay as an extra lift pump. Cut out SUPPLY line (not return line) quick disconnects and replace with hose and clamps; reinstall tank; extra lift pump if desired.

FYI I am assuming you have the 2nd gen fuel filter head with the bright blue heater plug. If not that's another source of air and argues for putting lift pump mentioned above back toward tank.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 2:13 pm 
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Location: north central Nebraska
Thanks Papaindigo.
yes sir, new gen filter within a week of me purchasing the jeep last fall..
I can't believe I didn't add it to my sig! I'll jump in there now to update.

It took about 5-6 pumps to get resistance, and when I opened the bleeder.. nothing but air. did this 2x, before the first signs of liquid... and 2 attempts more to get solid stream.

_________________
2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 2:29 pm 
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Location: Tallahassee, Florida
While you are adding that update consider adding your location in case someone is in the general vicinity.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 10:43 am 
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I am satisfied with the in-tank lift-pump install because
- it didn't require separating and splicing rubber hose into the anti-static plastic fuel lines to preclude air leakage
- Diesel fuel is a light oil, so the intank electric motor isn't subjected to the same wear considerations as the gasoline-fueled setup = works fine, lasts a long time

However, for sheer practicality, an external in-line pump mounted near the fuel tank requires much less labor at install and later replacement interval, and since the pump is pre filter-head and essentially at tank level, I would also recommend it as a viable option
- all that's required is it must be flow-thru when failed
- less than 15psi
- way less than 200-400gph
- 'nuther words, HOLLEY RED and BLUE are not satisfactory, even tho they do give bragging rights in show'n'tell scenarios
- suitable specs are ~10psi and ~35gph: a GM AC DELCO 6.5L solenoid shuttle-type pump is suitable, drawing only 5a at full pump
- some of the FACET solenoid shuttle-type pumps are suitable

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SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
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Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
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 Post subject: Re: 3 year 'game delay'..
PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2018 4:55 pm 
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Location: north central Nebraska
This is embarrassing, but after 3 yrs. My Lib see's the light of my shop again.
Soon after I rolled the 'dead' crd off the trailer back in 2015, life happened big time.
My wife and daughter were in a vehicle rollover, and both were ejected. My 'fun' projects were basically abandoned. Both gals are 100% restored now, but it was pretty rough the first year.

Fast forward to this week. I got good battery put in, old one was long gone froze, and verified I have good solid fuel to the Cp3. I put my 'fuel caddy' (a gravity stand alone vessel) beside the Jeep, and ran the fuel line to the intake side of the filter. I work on a lot of diesels, some are power units, that don't come into the shop with an attached fuel tank.
When I checked for codes before, there were none. That's about the extent of any previous diagnosis.
Yesterday, with new battery, and block heater plugged in, (coolant temp read 90f.) I cranked her a couple cycles. No abnormal noise while cranking.. Seemed like good compression on all 4 cylinders. 'rut rut rut rut'.. I've had holes in pistons or burnt valves where you can definitely hear a difference 'rut rut row rut'.. while cranking. or worse, just a wheeze box.

So, with the block heater plugged in for a couple hours, I attached my actron reader. 90f was coolant temp. (48 ambient)
Cranked about 10-12 seconds. Nothing. Son said it was giving a nice puff puff puff of vapor out the exhaust. While I waited for the starter to rest, we checked for any codes. Nothing. Cleared it anyway. Second attempt, got a couple odd firing 'pops'. For the first seconds of cranking anyway.

Got the Camshaft Position Sensor not reading at the ecm PO340.
I learned after our attempts to start, that I should've been watching the reader to see if it was recording RPM while cranking. I missed that opportunity.
Not sure how the cam and crank sensor 'work' together, hand in hand, so-to-speak. I've read where if one or the other goes 'if running, should still run, but won't restart'.. and another tidbit I heard is if one is 'bad', it'll signal the injectors to fire, but only for 2-3 seconds. It may or may not be properly timed, but it'll drive the injectors.
Conjecturing my evident puffing of vapor.. for the first part of cranking anyway.
So, I've removed both the Crank and Cam sensors, awaiting parts to show up via UPS.
I picked up a glo plug adapter for compression/leakdown testing, if this first wave of diagnosis fails results. GP's need to be changed out anyway, they are still the ceramics. The jeep just rolled over 80k when it was parked.
I got the crank sensor out from the bottom. When I took out the cam sensor, I pulled the coolant reservoir out to gain a little slack in the harness, and pulled the trans dipstick tube over a little to gain some room for my 'mitts'. It's going to be a bugger to thread up that allen screw! I may enlist my daughter and her small hands to thread it up!
Anyway, after pulling the reservoir out, I seen the 2 wires that go to the coolant level switch, AND the small vacuum tube going to the turbo actuator were sawn in half by the turbo heat shield. Need to fix that.
So, for now, I wait. Waitin' on the brown delivery truck.

_________________
2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 1:51 am 
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good luck sounds like you could use some !
Definitely on the road to recovery.

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05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 185K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 200K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 112K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
CRDS: Fumoto, Kennedy Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 4:17 pm 
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Ok, replaced the crank and cam sensors yesterday. Seemed like the highest probability (after fuel delivery) , and without any apparent codes. Not upset to have changed out 'good' sensors, seems like they have a high failure rate anyway.

I did get a po340 one time during the crank attempts before I changed the sensors. It may have been triggered from having the battery charger on while cranking. I've been told not to do that!! OK!

So, I still get a couple cylinders trying to fire, but it just won't fly.

Most of my experience is with all- mechanical diesels. In large tractors and stand alone power units. Each and every cold start, my nose and eyes are within a couple feet of the exhaust outlet. I've seen and analyzed thousands and thousands of 'cold starts'. It's pretty simple; when I see nice, evenly spaced puffs of vapor, (even going through the turbo and muffler) It's pretty safe to assume all-is-good, and the engine should start.
When I see no vapor at all during crank, to continue draining the battery is pointless until the fuel issue is solved.
When I see a gap in the puffs; bad injector, dropped valve, hole in piston, blown head gasket between 2 cylinders.
My advantage to running those 6 and 8 cylinders, is even with a blown HG between 2 cylinders It'll still start, and run like crap. But is pretty evident what the problem is.
I'd just about bet 2 dead cylinders is probably too much for a 4 banger. I took off the oil fill cap, and listened while cranking. Pretty sure there isn't a hole in a piston. It's a pretty pronounced sound when that happens.

Here are 2 very short videos of 2 crank attempts. I put a flashlight across the exhaust stream to enhance what is seen. This is pure diesel vapor, no coolant at all (system has been drained) Amount of vapor may seem quite dense, it's only because of the added light.
https://youtu.be/pOyAX72zcvk
https://youtu.be/pOyAX72zcvk
Most people don't see what's coming right out of the pipe. The vapor you do see in the rear view mirror is blended too much with atmosphere to make any judgment. This is within 6 inches of the pipe. I can see 2-3 fairly pronounced puffs, then kind of a 'blob'.. so to speak. The other vid it's closer to just 2 pretty good puffs, and kind of a run together cloud before it repeats.
My experience with seeing this, is a blown head gasket between cylinders. Can also hear it in the starter; 2 pretty good compressions, then 1 or 2 not so good ones. Bent valve would show similar.
I wouldn't dismiss broke rockers either, I just haven't had the pleasure yet of seeing the symptoms!

So, seeing it's due for it's first TB, (80k) I might as well get the front cover off and verify timing. If everything checks out.. I'll pull the glo plugs to make sure the ceramics are intact. (looking for anything that may have interfered with valves here)
From there, if all is intact, I guess a leak down test.
Game on!

_________________
2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:53 pm 
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on common rail diesel engine , if youre losing rail pressure you can cap injectors one at a time and it will start but you dont know if your engine dropped exhaust valve , so start with removing GP like you said


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2018 8:09 pm 
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Location: north central Nebraska
well, either somebody changed my fan shroud out, or I got a 'special' one.
I was all ready to 'mod' the shroud to remove it w/o having to take off the fan. By the time I got all the cutting tools rounded up, my son is standing beside the jeep with shroud in hand.

How did you do that?!?

He grins and in his other hand there is a panel that is held in with 2 push pins, and a blade type tab. WITH A CHRYSLER PART NUMBER.
He shrugged, and said it took 15 seconds to remove that panel, and the shroud wiggled up right past the fan. Cool.

What's not cool is what we found behind the front cover.
Remember, 80k miles. Engine suddenly dies, no restart. I looked back at my old posts to see if I had any other documented 'issues' from 2015... yep. 'slight coolant leak'.. Source; around the water pump/thermostat area.. to be addressed during upcoming TB procedure!!

Which explains the 'grunge' found splattered around the WP pulley, and the amount of slop in the bearings. I can wiggle the pulley side to side about 1/4 inch. Bearings are shot.

So, no doubt the TB has jumped. How deep the carnage goes will be the next step.
I'll go ahead and pin up the crank and see how far off the cams ended up.. just for giggles.

80k miles, and the stinking WP croaks before the TB. The misery of it all, I was only 3 weeks away from the TB procedure before it grenaded.

_________________
2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2018 6:19 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 05, 2014 12:22 pm
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Location: north central Nebraska
So the decision came to pull the engine.
Pulling the engine seemed a little over the top at first, just for a top end fix... but seeing I wanted to do a TC upgrade, motor mounts, possible turbo change.. I'll bend over the fenders for a lot less hours by pulling the engine and working on it at eye level..

Looked to me that most of the electrical is going to be disconnected, along with most of the plumbing anyway.. just to do the head.

Plus, if I find a bushel of grenaded rocker arms, I can pull the pan and flush the shrapnel. 'clean up' should be a little easier/more effective when the engine is out.

So far, the toughest part for my gnarled up hands is getting the electrical connectors separated. Those 4 mains by the TCM, even when I released the bracket to gain a better angle.. was tough.
The absolute worst was the rail pressure sensor against the firewall. The release tab was facing the firewall. Got in there between the trans dipstick tube, and the firewall with a long handled needle nose, and was able to gently squeeze the release..

Just a preliminary check of where the timing ended up at, The intake cam is at least 4-5 teeth retarded. No reason to look at the exhaust cam timing.
All I can say so far, is when you discover you are losing coolant, don't assume it's harmless hose connection, or even a headgasket. DO NOT RULE OUT THE WATER PUMP. Mine was pissing into the front cover, and I never seen it. It never crossed my mind to even look there, WP's seemed to at least outlast the timing belts..
So, should have it on the ground in the next day or so.. and I can start on the head removal.. with my spine in an upright position!

_________________
2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2018 11:51 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2014 9:33 pm
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I know one or two teeth off won't cause interference in the valves and pistons but 4 to 5 may be a bit too many but hopefully if the valves did meet pistons then the rockers broke as they are designed to do . If you don't have piston damage you might consider at least new exhaust valves and rockers along with arp studs and head gasket kit. It sounds like you are pretty well equipped to do what may be needed especially with motor pulled. If needed you may also want to consider a rebuilt head from vm specialists or rebuilt or new head from ID parts

Also though the water pump itself appears to have caused your problem remember the timing belt is rated for I believe up to 7 years in time and most here would probably change in 5 years . That is indeed surprising that the water pumps bearings failed at 80k.

I suppose you know for cold weather areas you might want to get the metal 5 volt glow plugs and continue with the 7 volt glow plug module.

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05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 185K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 200K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 112K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
CRDS: Fumoto, Kennedy Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 10:31 am 
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TKB4 wrote:
I know one or two teeth off won't cause interference in the valves and pistons but 4 to 5 may be a bit too many but hopefully if the valves did meet pistons then the rockers broke as they are designed to do . If you don't have piston damage you might consider at least new exhaust valves and rockers along with arp studs and head gasket kit. It sounds like you are pretty well equipped to do what may be needed especially with motor pulled. If needed you may also want to consider a rebuilt head from vm specialists or rebuilt or new head from ID parts

Also though the water pump itself appears to have caused your problem remember the timing belt is rated for I believe up to 7 years in time and most here would probably change in 5 years . That is indeed surprising that the water pumps bearings failed at 80k.

I suppose you know for cold weather areas you might want to get the metal 5 volt glow plugs and continue with the 7 volt glow plug module.


Yep! I already have a 'list' of stuff to do over and above just fixing the carnage.. GP's are part of it too.
I too am curious why that pump went south. I'll have it out soon, maybe it's a crown replacement a previous owner put in?? I have not seen 'signs' of anyone other than VM wrenching on this engine; scuffed bolt heads, odd rtv oozing..
Seals do go bad, and coolant isn't very nice to bearings.
Ordered just the rockers the other day. They were less than 10 bucks each w/shipping. From England. I figured if the head is trash, and have to go with a rebuilt or even a new compete head, I'll need those rockers either way. If I need to dig deeper for lifters too, then I'll have 'spares'. 150 bucks sitting on the shelf for 'next time'!
I'll for sure check it for flatness, and make sure the guides and seats are 'good'.
I've also been advised on the exhaust valves. They all may be bent to hell... LOL, That'll make it easy to decide!

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2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 12:43 pm 
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Valves will not be bent, because the rockers are the designed failure point and will be broken based on your descriptions so far. There won't be any need to pull the oil pan and flush, the rockers don't break like that with pieces. You'll see when you get it open.

Timing belts have an age clock as well as a mileage clock, thanks to Chrysler for "forgetting" to put that in the owner's manual b/c they just didn't want the potential of having to pay for the work under warranty.

Do yourself the favor and install ARP studs and the 2-hole head gasket while doing the valves and everything else, as well as (of course) the full EGR delete and a fresh timing belt kit with those new rockers.

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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 2:10 pm 
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Has not been but just a very few reports that I remember on LOST of a water pump failure to the point of bearing loss and TB jumping time.
I only remember reading about maybe two besides yours in the past.
There have been some reporting WP failure in so far as leaking antifreeze from a blown seal, but TB jumping time was not involved. :roll:

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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 2:36 pm 
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geordi wrote:
Valves will not be bent, because the rockers are the designed failure point and will be broken based on your descriptions so far. There won't be any need to pull the oil pan and flush, the rockers don't break like that with pieces. You'll see when you get it open.

Timing belts have an age clock as well as a mileage clock, thanks to Chrysler for "forgetting" to put that in the owner's manual b/c they just didn't want the potential of having to pay for the work under warranty.

Do yourself the favor and install ARP studs and the 2-hole head gasket while doing the valves and everything else, as well as (of course) the full EGR delete and a fresh timing belt kit with those new rockers.


Big 'thumbs up' Geordi! Somewhere in my pile of 'to do' parts, are both new motor mounts, and part II of the sasquatch kit.. I was maybe 3 weeks away from scoring the TB/water pump. lightning struck first.

This rig came up out of Texas, and even though it 'only' had 70k miles on it when I bought it, I wasn't going to take a chance of it not seeing a zillion hours of 'idle' time (keeping the AC on).. and didn't want to push my luck to the spec'd 100k My intentions were good... I just didn't beat fate. Bought it Sept, and I was gathering up parts for a Spring TB/motor mount change. :banghead:
Don't stand next to me during a lightning storm!!

A 'neat' thing that could easily been included in the ECM, would be an hour meter! Actual run time should be more accurate on these sorts of maintenance, and take all the 'guess work or what- if's' out.
I've got machines with both 'actual hours', and machines with revolution counters. (100,000 revolutions used to be the standard 'hour') So an engine 'idling' at say 1000 rpm would take 100 minutes to actually register 1 hour.. where one humping along at 2500 would only take 40 minutes to click off 1 hour.
Most my newer stuff clicks off 1 hour when the key is on, regardless of it's running or not.. I chew out my kids when they are sitting in a tractor, engine off, and the key is 'on' listening to the radio.. LOL Every 'click' of the hour meter is $$$ out of my pocket!

So, besides the carnage, I'll be doing just about everything I've read about in 'here' to extend, strengthen, and make this machine more reliable. I don't want to see the inside of it any time soon!

I've done a few turbo's over the years, I might as well 'freshen' this one up too. Anyone have a handy link to a rebuild kit? But, are they even worth taking a chance on (second life) or would stepping up to the billet wheel version Sasquatch offers be more prudent for long term?
EDIT; after reading several posts on how the original turbo's are pretty much at their limit for most of their life, I probably will not rebuild mine.

_________________
2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


Last edited by rancherman on Mon Mar 05, 2018 4:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 2:52 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 05, 2014 12:22 pm
Posts: 365
Location: north central Nebraska
WWDiesel wrote:
Has not been but just a very few reports that I remember on LOST of a water pump failure to the point of bearing loss and TB jumping time.
I only remember reading about maybe two besides yours in the past.
There have been some reporting WP failure in so far as leaking antifreeze from a blown seal, but TB jumping time was not involved. :roll:

Someone painted a bullseye on my back with this vehicle???

yeah, it will be impossible to tell what happened first; bearings went out, then the slop in the shaft took out the seal... or the seal went out, the lube escaped , and lack of lube took out the bearing.. OR seal went out, allowed coolant in the bearing and well... same possible result! extremely loose timing belt!
I use an actual 'water pump grease' on rebuilding some of my diesel coolant pumps. Sticky, nasty stuff @ room temp.. I 'think' it's a beeswax base.. unaffected by coolant/water (so they claim). But when it's 180-200 degrees, a bad seal will let it sling right out!

_________________
2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 3:07 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 05, 2014 12:22 pm
Posts: 365
Location: north central Nebraska
Three years ago yesterday was the dreaded phone call from wife.. I remember it well.

I guess the ONE good point, is I haven't racked up any miles on it!! :roll:

_________________
2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


Last edited by rancherman on Tue Mar 06, 2018 1:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 10:45 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 06, 2007 9:51 pm
Posts: 5881
Location: Somewhere between Heaven and Hell... But it is really hot here on Earth...
The turbo is not "at its limit" unless you are driving foot-to-the-floor all the time. The computer program both stock and from GDE are designed to minimize boost spikes (which are bad) but allow utilization in the midrange for RPM where it is most useful. GDE fine-tunes that boost map a lot, but maintains the safety stop at the top end where boost level is roughly linear with shaft speed and you don't want the shaft exceeding (IIRC) 150k rpm or 26psi. As long as you are below that and the oil is properly rated and changed avery 6k OR LESS... Then your turbo is not accruing any wear at all b/c it is in a zero-friction environment.

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Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
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Over 70 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Just remember: Bad noises = REALLY bad things.


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 1:59 pm 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
rancherman wrote:
A 'neat' thing that could easily been included in the ECM, would be an hour meter! Actual run time should be more accurate on these sorts of maintenance, and take all the 'guess work or what- if's' out.
I've got machines with both 'actual hours', and machines with revolution counters. (100,000 revolutions used to be the standard 'hour') So an engine 'idling' at say 1000 rpm would take 100 minutes to actually register 1 hour.. where one humping along at 2500 would only take 40 minutes to click off 1 hour.
Most my newer stuff clicks off 1 hour when the key is on, regardless of it's running or not.. I chew out my kids when they are sitting in a tractor, engine off, and the key is 'on' listening to the radio.. LOL Every 'click' of the hour meter is $$$ out of my pocket

I"ve thought about that myself, but was converted to the idea of a "total fuel consumed" meter. This, because 1 hr of cruising down the highway, VS 1 hr of foot to the floor playing in the mud have drastically different results in wear to the engine. Most developers rate engines in HP-hrs. Fuel consumed is the most consistent measurement of that as well as wear on all the drivetrain components.

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'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

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