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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 2:38 pm 
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I am eagerly watching this thread, either option will be very good - I wish there was a measurement from zero as that would help immensely in the prediction of when the valves become a safety risk, but at this point any type of hour meter will be much appreciated.


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 2:58 pm 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
The EVIC in mine has a average MPG function. I understand the numbers it displays are inaccurate for a couple of reasons, However, the MPG is miles traveled, / fuel used. To someone who understands programming these things, putting in an ongoing fuel consumed meter display should be possible since that is something already monitored/measured to get the MPG number.
Just make one non-resettable similar to the Odometer. Better yet, make it a part of the Odometer display.

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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 6:51 pm 
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Blizzard earlier this week put the Lib on a pretty low priority list this week, so didn't get too much done.

Looks like the only thing left to unscrew is the bottom 4 bolts on the transmission/engine.
Took the engine mounts out, and set the engine back down on a block of wood between the crossmember and oil pan.

I was a little surprised how easy it was to take the convertor bolts out. Maybe 10-15 ft. lbs to crack them loose. All 4 were the same.
This Lib had the front pump done according to a warrantee work search. So it's not the first time it's been separated.

Got a couple of pre-looped 36 inch slings rigged up for the back half, and the front eye for the front of the leveling bar. Seeing my slings will place the leveling bar 'higher' than normal, I'll go ahead and remove the hood. Disconnecting the prop rods still didn't get enough clearance.

Took the MAP out so the sling wouldn't rub too hard on it.. man that thing was PLUGGED! I did Sasquatch stage 1 just before the WP went south.. I must not of cleaned it then!

Another half hour and the engine should be on the ground.

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2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 7:07 pm 
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geordi wrote:
I am eagerly watching this thread, either option will be very good - I wish there was a measurement from zero as that would help immensely in the prediction of when the valves become a safety risk, but at this point any type of hour meter will be much appreciated.


Was it you, Geordi, that was looking for data on failed valves? Was anything ever compiled? Typical miles seen for example?

_________________
2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 7:46 pm 
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Yes, the testing is still going on - they are being VERY thorough and since this is being done by grad students, we are getting multiple rounds of testing for free. It isn't as fast as we might like, but when we are getting tens of thousands of dollars of value for free... Slow is OK.

The preliminary results are that the failures are NOT caused by temperature or bad alloy metal on the exhaust studs, but is actually just cyclical wear. The stud opening and closing with spring tension just gets to a point where the metal has had enough (around 300 billion cycles IIRC) and the alloy in the stem between the weld and the head (coin) of the valve lets go.

The failure analysis says that it does NOT happen over time, so it isn't a cracking issue, and there is no evidence on the parts of heat damage or metallurgical changes. Like cut with a laser or snapping a piece of dry pasta - POP and it is gone. The failures have been as low as 150k miles, and as high as above 200k. Obviously a vehicle that runs at low speed or idles a lot would trend to the low end of that range, where a vehicle with all highway miles would be to the upper end or far above 200k. Considering that most CRDs still out there are at or below 150k right now, replacing the valves would likely be a one-time job if the mileage continues at the same pace, any CRD will be approaching 24 years old and 400k miles when they might need valves again. I don't know how many will still even exist in another 12 years.

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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 11:18 pm 
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geordi wrote:
Yes, the testing is still going on - they are being VERY thorough and since this is being done by grad students, we are getting multiple rounds of testing for free. It isn't as fast as we might like, but when we are getting tens of thousands of dollars of value for free... Slow is OK.

The preliminary results are that the failures are NOT caused by temperature or bad alloy metal on the exhaust studs, but is actually just cyclical wear. The stud opening and closing with spring tension just gets to a point where the metal has had enough (around 300 billion cycles IIRC) and the alloy in the stem between the weld and the head (coin) of the valve lets go.

The failure analysis says that it does NOT happen over time, so it isn't a cracking issue, and there is no evidence on the parts of heat damage or metallurgical changes. Like cut with a laser or snapping a piece of dry pasta - POP and it is gone. The failures have been as low as 150k miles, and as high as above 200k. Obviously a vehicle that runs at low speed or idles a lot would trend to the low end of that range, where a vehicle with all highway miles would be to the upper end or far above 200k. Considering that most CRDs still out there are at or below 150k right now, replacing the valves would likely be a one-time job if the mileage continues at the same pace, any CRD will be approaching 24 years old and 400k miles when they might need valves again. I don't know how many will still even exist in another 12 years.

This kinda reinforces what some have been saying that engine run hours are much more important than actual milage.
Some have stated that having an run time hour meter for the engine would be a much better and informative gauge.

I believe this fits:
In materials science, fatigue is the weakening of a material caused by repeatedly applied loads. It is the progressive and localized structural damage that occurs when a material is subjected to cyclic loading. The nominal maximum stress values that cause such damage may be much less than the strength of the material typically quoted as the ultimate tensile stress limit, or the yield stress limit.

Fatigue occurs when a material is subjected to repeated loading and unloading. If the loads are above a certain threshold, microscopic cracks will begin to form at the stress concentrators such as the surface, persistent slip bands (PSBs), interfaces of constituents in the case of composites, and grain interfaces in the case of metals. Eventually a crack will reach a critical size, the crack will propagate suddenly, and the structure will fracture.

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Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
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Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
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98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 12:05 pm 
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Good stuff WWdiesel and Geordi.
The bottom line; Do we as crd owners look to replace the exhaust valves every other timing belt change.. or go with a complete new head? Maybe the pounded out valve seats in the heads and wear in the guides will make just replacing the complete head a better all around choice
Just guides and seals are 670 bucks!! add another300 for new valves plus the head shop charges. Tired valve springs...$$$
This puts a brand new complete head ~1800 bucks at a pretty decent deal. Just looking at the 'big picture' here.

But on the other hand, sinking yet ANOTHER 2000-3000 bucks into a vehicle with 200k miles on it, with hopes of another 200k left in the body is going to be impossible for guys in the rust belt.

What to do, what to do...
I sent out a 'feeler' to a couple of custom valve mfg's. Maybe Geordi already has done this.
Inconel, and Inconel/Sodium filled valves seem to be the gnat's booty for extreme duty exhaust valves.
I'm no engineer, so I won't presume a thing.
From my old racing days, a valve was 'gun drilled' from the tip, to just beyond where the stem rides in the guide. A hardened tip was then welded to the end to cap it off. This lightened it up about 10%, and valve inertia was 'better'. Later on, Titanium took over.

Then, some applications would fill this void with sodium, to help with heat dispersion. Sodium turns liquid around 93C.
True 2 piece valves, welded where ours seem to break, are not uncommon either. I believe this was done to fill a drilled out 'head' with sodium, possibly down the stem too. Ford did this in some of their 351's, 370's (truck) and 390's. With 'not so good luck' I might add! Some ran forever, some didn't...
Do we pony up the cash for a bullet proof custom valve, (my best 'guess' would be probably 25-35 bucks a valve, if bought in quantity) 50 seems the minimal order, 100 would be better.... Or just settle for oem Vm and expect 'only' 150-200 miles of service??? But the million dollar question is, would a custom valve be a 'bullet proof' part?? Any better than VM supplies? Appears we would be dealing with a welded part.. regardless of source.

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2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 4:35 pm 
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Engine is now out. My slings were just about an inch short of being too long.. I had the picker almost fully extended to clear the radiator support. (Jeep is sitting on rail road ties, so it's already sittin' 'up' there)

Benefits of the automatic; half inch forward, and the engine is able to come up and away.. I think I've read in the FSM that for our European brothers, the manual trans MUST come out before the engine...

So, I'll be starting at the top and working my way down and around.
Starting at the head;
remove and safely store injectors. pull head, check for flatness, condition of valves. remove ceramic GP's.
Reinstall head, using studs. install 5v. metal GP's.

Just a quick walk around the motor, I see some oil around the rear main seal, not a lot, but it's there.
I cannot tell where the oil is coming from around the turbo; either it's seeping out the return line, or it's from oil pooled up in the fresh air hose leaking back out. All I see at this time is it's a mess.

all in all, looks to be right at 2000 bucks to do everything I want done.

........still looking for my box of Liberty parts; the 2 engine mounts, and stage 2 sasquatch kit...... Hope they turn up soon! They must've been buried with some other 'to do' jobs from 3 yrs ago.

I'd like to post a few pics.. is there any FREE pic hosting anymore these days?

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2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 2:24 pm 
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It's so fun to work on this now! (removed from vehicle)
Skinned it down a little more This morning;
Got the rear half of the timing cover off, Water pump too. (Front half of pump has the VM logo cast in it.. so it's not a Crown) Blows my theory of a cheapo WP being installed.
Went ahead and removed the egr assembly too. (now the search for my Sasquatch stage 2 kit intensifies!!)

The TB: 'Goodyear'. Was GY the supplier for OEM? I bought this Lib with 70k miles, thinking it should've never been opened up yet. If GY wasn't the supplier, someone else been trespassing here!

pulled the 4 injectors, all sealing coppers and O-rings made it out. labeled them and covered them with duct tape to protect the tip, and to keep crap out of the lines. ( I kept the short connector pipe attached to each injector)
#1 was a little wet on the tip.. but if that cylinder wasn't firing because of broke rockers, I won't freak out quite yet. There was a fair amount of cranking in trying to restart it.

I did notice, after I took the TB off, and before I took the exhaust sprocket off, I could easily turn the exhaust cam 1/2 rotation before it hit a functioning rocker.. surprise, surprise!
Might have a spare hour this evening to pull the top cover off.
Hopefully, the Glo Plugs will extract as easily as the injectors!

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2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 3:00 pm 
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Be sure and tap and plug the EGR port on the end of the exhaust manifold while you got easy access to it.
GY I believe was the OEM supplier of the cam belts. Mine was also GY and was OEM when I did my TB job back in 2013.

Don't forget having the head checked for flatness when you do the exhaust valves... :wink:
It should be OK since your problem was not heat related.

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05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 5:30 pm 
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WWDiesel wrote:
Be sure and tap and plug the EGR port on the end of the exhaust manifold while you got easy access to it.
GY I believe was the OEM supplier of the cam belts. Mine was also GY and was OEM when I did my TB job back in 2013.

Don't forget having the head checked for flatness when you do the exhaust valves... :wink:
It should be OK since your problem was not heat related.


I'll keep that In mind if I can't find my sasquatch stage II kit.
Considering the exhaust valves have a limited life even w/o being assaulted by a piston... I may just go ahead and replace them too. It's only another 140 bucks :roll: Not saying they are damaged from this, but if they got their 'bell rung'... :dizzy:

Anyway, just got in from pulling the cover off.. 8 broke exhaust rockers.
Rollers seemed ok. Preliminary inspection of cams show nothing outside of 'normal'..
Got the turbo off the manifold, manifold is off the head. Should have the head off maybe even tonight.

Looking down the road a few weeks; GDE ECO trans tune. What is the verdict on doing BOTH the trans tune, along with the Trans-go shift improver kit? The cost and time of installing the Trans-go really isn't that big a deal, but I've read that the 'tune' is where it's really 'at' anyway. Yes or no on the trans go?

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2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 9:41 pm 
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Shift kits are really a matter of personal preference.

As an old hot rodder, shift kits were SOP for any automatic transmission.
The idea behind a shift kit is that reduces the delay between clutch pack release and clutch pack apply. We’re talking mili seconds here.
Making the shifts faster and firmer. Presumably also reducing wear on the clutches.

I will never tell anyone not to do shift kit.
It’s up to you to determine the value of installing it.

GDE offers two TCM options.
Eco and towing.
If you plan to tow a heavy load through the mountains, get the towing tune.
If you only drive on flat city streets, get the eco.
All the possible 545rfe TCM tunes have their pros and cons. None of them are great in every possible situation.

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Bought my '05 CRD on June 2nd '07, used with 29,000 miles.
intake elbow and EGR delete. 5 volt bosch glow plugs
Yeti stage 2 ECU tune. Straight pipe exhaust. DIY intercooler hoses
Provent and modified factory 180F thermostat
Replaced cylinder head (cracked) at 160,000 miles + ARP studs
2.5 inch lift, JBA upper arms, 235-85-16 tires.
Still love it.


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 11:03 pm 
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flash7210 wrote:
Shift kits are really a matter of personal preference.

As an old hot rodder, shift kits were SOP for any automatic transmission.
The idea behind a shift kit is that reduces the delay between clutch pack release and clutch pack apply. We’re talking mili seconds here.
Making the shifts faster and firmer. Presumably also reducing wear on the clutches.

I will never tell anyone not to do shift kit.
It’s up to you to determine the value of installing it.

GDE offers two TCM options.
Eco and towing.
If you plan to tow a heavy load through the mountains, get the towing tune.
If you only drive on flat city streets, get the eco.
All the possible 545rfe TCM tunes have their pros and cons. None of them are great in every possible situation.


I'm a stick and clutch guy, so my knowledge of automatic is 'slim' at best! 99% of the use will be hauling the family around. Very little 'city' driving, I'm 20 miles from the nearest 'hamlet'.. LOTS of miles @ 65mph. I'm thinking the eco, along with the upgraded TC, trans-go, and any front pump mods/upgrades.
All I know is mine was in for something early in it's life for a front pump 'fix'. (according to the warrantee work order search) my guess is it was for a leaking front seal.

_________________
2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 3:02 pm 
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Head is off. Man, the row of bolts along the exhaust ports were TIGHT! The rest seemed 'average', but there was a couple that cracked loose fairly easy.
From what I can see, the pistons look ok. I can see where the valve mushed into the layer of carbon on the piston top, but not really 'mashing' it beyond that layer and into the actual metal.

Cylinder #1 has some rust 'stain's. Not quite an inch below the top of the liner... about 120 degrees of circumference, and half inch top to bottom. Some elbow grease and a 'rough' rag got most of it cleaned up. I need to really look for any cracks in the liner. There was a tablespoon of coolant on only that piston, but at the time I figured it was from pulling the head off.

Got to thinking; I better bust up that old WP, and see if any ball bearings escaped.. and are now sitting in the bottom of the water jacket somewhere...

So, for now, the head will be going to town. Make sure it's healthy enough to accept the new ex. valves..
Been a week now waiting on my rockers.. I went the cheap way for shipping, so I really don't expect them until first week in April.

Geordi; you mentioned to just go ahead and get the 2 hole HG? Even if it was a no-hole, or a 1? Most pics of 'here is a pic of the hole(s) in HG' are missing. If on the 'rusty' part that sticks out, Looks like I've a 1 hole.

_________________
2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 9:37 pm 
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If the water sat in the cylinder long enough to cause a rust stain, it wasn’t because you removed the head.
Could have been head gasket leak.
Could have been a cracked head.
Have your head tested for cracks at the machine shop.

_________________
Bought my '05 CRD on June 2nd '07, used with 29,000 miles.
intake elbow and EGR delete. 5 volt bosch glow plugs
Yeti stage 2 ECU tune. Straight pipe exhaust. DIY intercooler hoses
Provent and modified factory 180F thermostat
Replaced cylinder head (cracked) at 160,000 miles + ARP studs
2.5 inch lift, JBA upper arms, 235-85-16 tires.
Still love it.


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 10:01 pm 
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If you have a little light rust on the cylinder wall, use some 400 grit cloth sandpaper and lightly wet sand the rust out using WD40, wipe out good with a clean rag then coat all cylinder walls down real good with WD40.
If it came from the factory with a a one hole head gasket and you are not reusing it, you should go back with a new one hole HG if you are reusing the same head.
There was a reason for the different thicknesses of head gaskets from the factory based on the piston protrusion measurements...

Image

_________________
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


Last edited by WWDiesel on Wed Apr 25, 2018 12:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 11:11 am 
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flash7210 wrote:
If the water sat in the cylinder long enough to cause a rust stain, it wasn’t because you removed the head.
Could have been head gasket leak.
Could have been a cracked head.
Have your head tested for cracks at the machine shop.


Yep,yep,yep! ^^^

Usually, when I find a stain like what I've found, it was in an engine that has sat a long time with a valve open. Say 1--2+ yrs, But they typically have a much shorter intake/exhaust system than what is on the Lib... allows 'breathing' of high moisture air. I go through 4 major seasons 'here'.. and moisture does crawl. I hope that it was this, but will test for the other.

I put on the magnifying goggles yesterday, I thought I saw a near horizontal 'mark'. It's just about halfway down bore, 3/4 inch long. It's no more deeper or wide than a single hone mark.. but it stands out because it's horizontal, not the 45 degree. It's dead center below the 'stain'.
I'm hoping it's just a scratch from my aggressive 'stain removal'.. but I fear it's not. I would've scratched the heck out of the area where I was really scrubbing..
Neighbor says I can borrow his dye kit and check it to see if it's cracked.
I've only seen wet liners crack just below the flange area, just above where the top ring would sit.. Some of my buddies have had issues with cavitation/erosion.. and they have seen the resulting crack about mid bore. Fantastic. Another potential 400+ bucks.
So, test the dang thing and see what's up with that cylinder. :dizzy:
Geez, I hope it's just a scratch.

_________________
2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 1:04 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 4068
Location: Central GA
rancherman wrote:
:dizzy:
Geez, I hope it's just a scratch.

Me too on the scratch!
As to cavitation erosion on the outside of the cylinder liner, never heard or read any reports of it on this particular engine.
Using the wrong type of antifreeze and / or bad PH levels in a diesel engine can certainly attribute to cavitation.
If your oil was not mixed with coolant, then it is doubtful that you have a cracked liner. A leaking head gasket or cracked head maybe?
A cracked liner or sleeve usually allows coolant to propagate through the crack and and into the oil. But doing a die test is a good check!

This is a good site (Diesel Technicial Society) to read about cavitation erosion in wet sleeve engines:> http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles. ... osion-r27/

Several years ago I remember reading about Ford having some real big issues with cavitation erosion and resulting cracking on one or two cylinder liners on their 7.3 V8 diesel power stroke engines. They ended up adding an additive to the coolant to stop the cavitation problem best I remember.

:SOMBRERO:

Image

_________________
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 5:29 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 05, 2014 12:22 pm
Posts: 365
Location: north central Nebraska
WWDiesel wrote:
rancherman wrote:
:dizzy:
Geez, I hope it's just a scratch.

Me too on the scratch!
As to cavitation erosion on the outside of the cylinder liner, never heard or read any reports of it on this particular engine.
Using the wrong type of antifreeze and / or bad PH levels in a diesel engine can certainly attribute to cavitation.
If your oil was not mixed with coolant, then it is doubtful that you have a cracked liner. A leaking head gasket or cracked head maybe?
A cracked liner or sleeve usually allows coolant to propagate through the crack and and into the oil. But doing a die test is a good check!

This is a good site (Diesel Technicial Society) to read about cavitation erosion in wet sleeve engines:> http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles. ... osion-r27/

Several years ago I remember reading about Ford having some real big issues with cavitation erosion and resulting cracking on one or two cylinder liners on their 7.3 V8 diesel power stroke engines. They ended up adding an additive to the coolant to stop the cavitation problem best I remember.

:SOMBRERO:

Image


Cavitation/erosion is very serious crud and some designs seem to never have a problem even running pond water for coolant.... where others need every additive in the arsenal to keep the coolant 'in check'.

Sometimes all it takes is a 'ding' on the outside of the liner (like, during installation) and it's just a matter of time! Those shock waves coming off the liner are evil. But, I thought with CRD technology, those impulses were reduced because of the multiple smaller 'hits'.. as opposed to one big blast from the mechanical injected versions. :?:

I'm hoping my paranoia is just getting the best of me, and that 'mark' passes the dye test. There were 2-3 center row head bolts that took only 50-60 lbs to loosen (Armstrong method LOL) so maybe I'm dealing with just a seeper HG.

I'll loosen the pan bolt and see if coolant comes out ahead of the oil.

_________________
2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


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 Post subject: Re: Lib conks out.. But I got a game plan thanks to L
PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 2:24 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 05, 2014 12:22 pm
Posts: 365
Location: north central Nebraska
Sitting around waiting for parts and the dye kit to show up... I might as well get something done in the meantime!
Popped out the cams and dunked the whole intake/cover in kerosene for a good soak.. then a high pressure washer blast should have it spic and span. My kid LOVES holding onto parts while I run the pressure washer.. :roll:
I'll loosen the drain plug on the OP and see if coolant comes out. If it's present, coolant should be first thing out.

Middle of an ice storm now, and lights are flickering! I may have other pressing issues to tend to today.


edit! Fed Ex just showed up with my new rockers! Took about 10 days to get them across the pond, even with the cheapest shipping method. Too bad I'm a LONNNGGGG ways off from installing them!

_________________
2006 KJ CRD, bought 9/11/14, 70,500 miles. Circulating Rotella T6 5w-40
11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
Sasquatch elbow kit, samcos, GDE eco FT. 11-26-14
80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
Budget?? Sure! 'Everything I have'.
New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


Top
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