Correction; Rod bolts, crank adapter bolts, are NOT 12 point heads.
They are 'E' driver, as in "External Torx" head.
Got my readin' glasses out, and seen the heads of the bolts were rounded point star pattern..
So, knocked out the pistons, (immediately mate the rod caps up to their rods they came from!! YOU DO NOT WANT TO EVER MIX THESE UP!!! Journals and bearings look excellent. Still, i'll reassemble with new bearings. I have no reason to split the main bearing modules. My end-play is still within spec, and I've never seen a main bearing go 'bad' and not mark the crap out of the rod journal it feeds.
Piston skirts had normal to minimum 'scuffing'... And not really into the aluminum.. just the coating is a little 'rubbed'. I'll have them soakin' in my parts cleaner later tonight.
Used the acetylene torch to give each head of the flex plate bolts about 5 second blast.. and they all easily broke loose. Sure could smell the locktite! It barely dulled the finish on the heads.
So, after removing the adapter housing from the block, crank adapter hub, rear crankshaft seal and plate (use a couple of bolts to 'push out' this part from block) There are 2 threaded holes just for this purpose. (I used 2 of the allen head screws that fasten the front crankshaft OP and vacuum pump gear on) I was 'ready'!!
Not knowing just how 'difficult' this was going to be, (getting the main bearing modules to just 'slide' out of the block, I geared up!!
spun the engine vertical, nose down; and put a hydraulic jack against the crank nose. I figured if I put more pressure on the crank than what the block, engine stand weigh together.... I'd stop and start my 'block heating' phase
All that worry for nothing!! Shoot, soon as the jack touched the snout, up she came!.
The block didn't even 'wiggle'.
So, my son either had to stand on the top of the engine stand, and not backflip off it while he played 'catch'... or we did it the 'easy way'.. and got the cherry picker out
I continued to jack as son 'took up slack' with the hoist... and I also made dang sure the crank snout didn't bugger the front main bearing (still in the block) This is why there is a special tool that slides over the snout; to protect the bearing, and give a little longer 'handle' to guide the crank. I imagine a chunk of plastic pipe would fare well for those who take the crank when horizontal.
Honestly, I was amazed how easy it came out. Barely more pressure was needed besides the weight of the crank.. I couldn't even 'feel' pressure on the jack handle.
I thought maybe each bearing module might be slightly smaller than the next one... NOPE. all the same size, front to rear.. You must keep the crank STRAIGHT AND ALIGNED even for the final module to pass through the block bore.
Left the crank position tone ring on, and sacked up the assembly to keep clean and dry.
Removed the piston squirters last, (yes, everything can be removed before the squirters... just pay attention as you go.)
Got some measurements to make a simple arbor to press the liners out. The smallest plate I have is for a Perkins, with a 3-7/8ths bore.. Just a hair too big.
I'm going to reuse these liners, so I want to be pretty 'square' on removing them. Otherwise, I'd just drive them out with a block of wood and a 2 pound hammer.