So, I decide to check this supposedly new timing belt out on my latest CRD, and guess what, it has cracks... Anyhow, it's so bad I'm not going to chance the new rockers (have receipt from dealer on those) by starting it even once. But, the engine is covered with an oil and sand mixture, and I want to install ARP's while I'm in there

What would you do? I don't see compressed air doing much. Lots of engine cleaner and then cardboard on the deck? Is there a cleaner that doesn't need to be rinsed off?

Many thanks for any advice, this is holding up the job

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

Brake cleaner and cardboard will work. Have done it before. I find Simple Green worked pretty darn good as well and is easy on the hands. Either way you do it you will be scrubbing.

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05 CRD
97 Toyota FZJ80 12v Cummins/NV4500-build thread
96 Lexus LX 450
96 Ford F350 4x4

How 'bout pushing it outside the gorage
- hitting the engine with AUTOZONE Engine cleaner in the orange can
- while it's soaking, hook the water hose to the bottom spigot on the water heater
- screw the pistol-grip nozzle onto the business end of the hose
- pressure spray the soaked engine with the hot water
- hot water will remove more gunk than cold water
- hot water will evaporate quickly, leaving the engine clean and dry
- back in the gorage and proceed with the festivities

- this will perform the suggested annual mineral-deposits flush which will prevent the hot-water tank from rust-thru
- AUTOZONE Engine cleaner flushes white, such that nabors don't call EPA vis a vis a toxic spill next door

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

Thanks fellas, that gives me something to go on. I have actually never been much for degreasing engines because I was too worried that the chems would damage plastic and rubber parts, but sand in the top end sounds much worse!

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

I agree with gmctd again, I cleaned the bottom of the engine and transmission this winter, unwillingly, while de-salting the under carriage, with hot water, inside the garage. It looks like new. Hot water may be all you need, or just use a pressure washer with widest spray and pay attention at the sensors. Same way I cleaned the super-gunky 5cyl turbo diesel Mercedes diesel, no detergent at all, and that engine had areas with 1/4 inch of gunk... You just need moderate pressure with hot water.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.