I just changed oil yesterday, my local NAPA store just started carrying a new oil from liqui-moly, direct from germany. I know there other products are top notch so I bought 7 liters (that's how it comes). 5 liter (1.3 gallons) was $38.99. Very expensive but I noticed a quieter engine and ran smoother, not sure I'll use it again but I was impressed. Anyone else tried this oil?

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05 Liberty Limited CRD, converted to KPA 2863 ball bearing and billet turbo, 50hp injectorsl, complete egr delete, cooling fan delete, weeks intake kit, cummins in tank lift pump, ARP studs, 3" turbo back exhaust, samcos, etecno plugs, GDE trans tune, custom GDE engine tune.

What weight is the liqui moli oil? 5w40? That brand is a very good one, I used it when I lived in Europe in the Audi diesel I had there.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I think number 1 cause of rocker arm failure is poor maintenance. I have been using Mobil 1 0w40 since i got the jeep in 2010, and I also replaced my rocker arms and they were fine, racer got the used ones. I also didn't have a gde tune till few months before rocker replacement. But regardless, I'm my opinion the rocker arm failure is caused by long oil change intervals cumulated with harsh driving habits and mainly egr. And btw, just because I haven't had a rocker arm failure doesn't mean the 0w40 is the best oil, just want to mention that is not a bad oil for this engine.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Yep 5w-40, I know liqui-moly is a great brand, just sucks it's about $60 for 7 liters (7.4qts).

When I visited GDE last summer they said that the 0w40 doesn't hold the soot particles in suspension. can't remember exactly how it correlated with rocker wear, but it made sense. Since my rebuild I've only used 5w40 and it comes out coal black from all the soot, granted mine also gets pushed harder than most.

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05 Liberty Limited CRD, converted to KPA 2863 ball bearing and billet turbo, 50hp injectorsl, complete egr delete, cooling fan delete, weeks intake kit, cummins in tank lift pump, ARP studs, 3" turbo back exhaust, samcos, etecno plugs, GDE trans tune, custom GDE engine tune.

This banter has basically quashed the suggestions of between brand comparisons.
SIDE NOTE: Mobil 1 (that does NOT fully comply) per previous posts in this thread...is AUD110 for 5 l.
The Mobil available here on a RETAIL basis did not make the grade well. It was horrendously expensive. It only just meets the specs and that decision was arrived at in collusion with Mobil (local) whilst I was trying to source bits and pieces for properly servicing the little truck.

I have, however, been able to source Rotella 5W-40 T6 from an importer HERE for fair money. The Mobil truck type oils you chaps write of is just not available unless buying bulk quantities of THAT particular oil.
I can have Rotella delivered to my door for fair money for this market. That suits me fine as it is an E9 oil - highly stable in turbo-charged engines, suitable for EGR and DPF as well. It does all this without being too heavy in any way for the engine.

To understand this market:
Using distilled water in a cooling system here was unheard of for the most part when the KJ was released.
That also took some shopping around but the DIY retail parts market is going through yet another massive transformation.
Even Valvoline HOAT and distilled water were hard to source. "Oh Matey - everyone just uses de-ionised or de-min water" ....
Comment: shortcuts have been used by many including de-ionised water substitution. So sourcing enough distilled H2O was the next exploit.
It is only recently that I could get the HOAT from a large Auto Supermarket and not the local specialist Engineer....although I prefer to give him the business.

My training does not permit short-cutting such as this.
It will not do.

Major drawback of non-distilled water here is chlorine additive to kill fecal choloform bacteria, which additive reacts with the HOAT stuff (or mebbe it's the poop bacteria that causes all the trouble, eh) - p'raps you could find some non-chlorine treated clear water (eliminating the field'n'stream stuff) there, which should work admirably

My water here is drawn directly from the aquifer below me thru my well - has no rust or excessive mineral content, so is admirable substitute for distilled water
also makes exceptional coffee.......................

And, if any locally easily-available oil compares to the MB spec, which lists as acceptable in the ROTELLA specs, maybe an oil to the MB spec is easier to find down there

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

An ion exchange resin is used to remove hardness (calcium and magnesium) in order to make de-ionized / de-mineralized water. De-ionized / De-mineralized water should be fine if the process also includes filtering the water through a charcoal bed (filter) to remove the chlorine.

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2006 CRD Sport
GDE FT ECO tune, GDE TCM ECO tune, ARP studs, HDS-001 203F T-Stat, 3.7L nylon fan & Hayden 2905 clutch, Carter P76148M in-tank pump, Racor 245R122 filter head & 2 micron R25S fuel filter, Provent 200, Samcos, Fumoto F-102, Litens 920834A de-coupler, PML rear diff cover, OEM trans pan with welded in bung, JBA UCAs, full skids.

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

Where the heck are you guys getting DI water?
Around here, I can get distilled water for $1 a gallon at the grocery store.
DI water is more expensive and must be ordered through a lab supply company.

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U.S. Army Retired

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

You blokes have itty bitty gallons too. eh?

Blackstone sampling kit is free until you pay the rather small fee for the actual analysis of the sample as you mail it to them for very reasonable amount.
As a system clean-out, I'm currently running the last of my Mobil 1 that I had to buy before sourcing the Rotella importer.
Plan on running it for only 2500 km and then changing it out and getting it analysed at which time will change back to Rotella and follow what happens by the numbers.

NOTE: Even when it was the only oil I could buy (and please remember what you can buy here only JUST cuts the mustard) IMO (and that of Mobil)) I only ran it for 5000 km (approx. 3000 mi). I tend to run Rotella out further but it depends on what kind of driving I'm doing - always changes.
Certainly interested in some quantitive analysis now I'm away from stock tune....and given that the by-pass oil filter will be connected to the system soon....after the battery is turned through 90 degrees and....Very interested to see what that does.

Distilled water is used in vaporized clothes irons and should be readily available, .59 cents a gallon at Wally world here in the States.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

I use water right out of my tap as well, as I also have a well. The water is so good and PH balanced that when I used to have aquariums all I had to do was run a hose with the right temperature and the fish loved it.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

okay...So, I have two questions:

1) Do I get the same oil cleanup with Yeti free tune over GDE tune?
2) Do I get the same mileage/gal improvement with Yeti free tune over GDE tune?

Thoughts or evidence?

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2005 CRD Limited
SEGR
WEEKS Kit (removed EGR, FCV),
Gen 2 Fuel Head
GDE Eco Tune
ARP studs
Etechno (7v) Glow Plugs
F37
Kap 193 thermostat
Carter Lift Pump (Modified wiring harness)
Fumoto (CRD-108)
Bypass oil filter (2 micron)
Samco
Provent
Sears P-1 Battery
Secondary 2 micron fuel filter

I would not know, and you would have to ask someone with the Yeti tune that rolls on highway tires and drives with the same finesse as me. I rarely use the brakes unless I need to stop, never use them to control the vehicle. Some people are mechanically slowing inertia, the only way for a true comparison would be me to get the Yeti tune, and that is not happening.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

As far as I know, no one has done a side by side comparison of the GDE tune and any of the "free" tunes. And no matter which tune you use, your results may vary depending on how you drive.
Look at it this way, GDE put in a lot of research and development into their tunes with lots of testing before selling them. Therefore I would expect the GDE tune to be the best available.
The free tunes were all done by someone playing around with a laptop in their free time. Not that those guys dont know what they are doing, but they rely on us users to test their tunes and provide feedback with a "use at your own risk" disclaimer.
I've tried the "free" tunes because they were free and easy to install. They worked out fine for me although I didn't notice any increase in MPG.

I think most attribute the GDE clean oil phenomenon to the EGR valve being somewhat disabled with the tune. But again, your results may vary.
Although I have never used a GDE tune I have had my EGR valve disabled for 60,000 miles and my oil has always been black. So there must be something more to the GDE tune than just EGR.

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U.S. Army Retired

That's pretty much a very fair opinion as far as I'm concerned. The only thing I would add is this: considering the costs the GDE tune incurs, is the returned value worth the extra expense versus a free tune? For me it does without question, even though I have never tried a free tune and because of that I can't have an opinion regarding them. I am basing my affirmation on what others say about free tunes only (in other words I have no data that I personally collected regarding free tunes), and so far nobody with a free tune showed so good results like gde did. For me this is a good enough reason to stick with a gde tune and not try anything else. Again, it's a matter of personal preference, for me the money paid for a gde tune is well worth it, for others it may not...

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

We definitely do not attribute the cleaner engine oil due to egr. It is primarily due to cleaner combustion from changes in timing, pilot injections, boost and rail pressure. These combinations make for a more complete combustion and less soot formation in cylinder. Less soot in the chamber means less is getting past the rings and down into the oil. Hope this is helpful.

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Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
(248) 977 - 9531

169,000 miles ---still running great with original rockers. GDE Eco installed at around 70,000 miles --- Mobil 0-40 always at 6,000 mile intervals.
Always amazed at how clean the oil stays. But, I drive very conservatively, except for occasional trailer towing.

Not related to oil topic, but still running original ceramic glow plugs, and haven't had head gasket problems.
There, I just shot myself in the foot with that one

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TWO Identical 2005 Liberty Sport CRDS
#1 CRD, 174,000 miles. Eco tune, Samco hoses. Mobil1 0-40w used since day one
#2 CRD 143,000 miles. Bought used (unknown history) with 100,000 miles. Samco hoses.
Eco tune, new rockers, and 5 volt glow plugs installed at 124,000 miles

Below are a couple pics from my last oil change.

5000 mile OCI.
Shell Rotella T6.
Napa Gold 1515.
GDE Full Torque Eco.

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Gen2 Fuel Head - Magnaflow Exhaust - Ram transmission swap - In-Tank Lift Pump
Moab Wheels - 245/75/R16 LR E Cooper Discoverer AT3 Tires - OME Lift 790/90009 948/60069 - Etecno Glow Plugs - V6 Airbox
RUNNING B100
Pic of my Jeep!