I'm having a problem removing the tensioner. it seems like there is just one bolt holding it in place, I have removed that bolt but not able to remove the tensioner. anyone done this in the past?

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06 liberty CRD limited, GDE ECO tune.

It's held on by 1 13mm bolt to the left of the tensioner pulley but I don't recall if you also have to remove the power steering pulley to get the tensioner off (if so that involves 3 10mm bolts). What you may be experiencing is parts simply "sticking" together due to time and a bit of surface rust in which case with that 13mm bolt removed simple tap the side of the tensioner base with something like a dead blow hammer to break that sticksion.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thank you! it does seem to be up against the P.S. pulley. I was wondering if I was missing a bolt and don't want to break that bracket.

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06 liberty CRD limited, GDE ECO tune.

That worked, so for anyone searching in the future pull the PS pulley and the tensioner falls out.

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06 liberty CRD limited, GDE ECO tune.

This is EXACTLY what I needed to know. Thanks. And, the FSM never mentions this...

So...next question. How do I keep the pulley from spinning as I try to remove the bolts?

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2005 Liberty Limited CRD; Air Filter Monitor; Samco Hoses; GDE HOT Tune; RL037142AA TC; KJ Interior Rack from All J Products; JBA Adjust-a-strut lift and A-Arms; 245/75R16 Firestone Destination ATs on Moabs; ARB Bumper; ASFIR Skids; FS-2500 Bypass Filter; ARP studs.
2016 Grand Cherokee Overland CRD.

I've always stuck a screw driver in one of the bigger holes and let it stop against the block. It shouldnt take much to break the 3 bolts loose

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

I got it. There is one 10mm bolt that can be snagged with a deep socket through one of the holes in the pulley, at about 3 o'clock.

New tensioner, new alternator, new idler pulleys, new belt. Nice and smooth.

The only thing I need to get now is a torque wrench that reads CCW.

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2005 Liberty Limited CRD; Air Filter Monitor; Samco Hoses; GDE HOT Tune; RL037142AA TC; KJ Interior Rack from All J Products; JBA Adjust-a-strut lift and A-Arms; 245/75R16 Firestone Destination ATs on Moabs; ARB Bumper; ASFIR Skids; FS-2500 Bypass Filter; ARP studs.
2016 Grand Cherokee Overland CRD.

No you don't. Just tighten down the idlers to the "German" torque spec of Gudentight and call it. You don't need to be a gorilla, they are self-tightening while in use and will never unthread accidentally.

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