Look in the missing relay socket: you should see two connectors in the narrow slots for the relay coil and two connectors in the wider slots for the relay power contacts
- pull a similar adjacent relay for example of appearance

Hopefully, DCJ EURO didn't short-change you on this, as you really need the ECM logic drive for safety purposes: powers the relay off in case of accident so the lift pump does not continue to feed the conflagration

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

i'll check tomorrow. with any luck the cable is in place. if not, i'll have to rethink it a little.

Just been out to check. can't find anything relating to fuel pump



are there anymore fuses and relays anywhere I don't know about?

That empty position is the missing FUEL PUMP relay - doesn't appear to be any connectors in the slots, either

There's an unmarked empty fuse position that should be the Fuel Priming fuse for the relay - no connectors in that, either

Need the EURO FSM for further, but you could tap the ASD relay output, which is key switched - would need external in-line fuse to the fuel pump

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

Is the connector for that the same one I was at yesterday under the seat?

Get a plus from the radio. Power up a relay switch with it. Optional: between radio plus and relay you can add a switch, so you can manually turn on/off the pump. Get a ground from battery to the relay. Get a plus wire from battery to the relay power supply and install a fuse (5-10 amps) in between battery and relay. Get a wire from relay output (the "to power source") to your fuel pump positive. Get a ground to your fuel pump either from chassis or from battery.

As gmctd said, you won't have the ecu protection in case of a God forbid an accident, but other than that, you'll have your auxiliary pump hooked up in no time.

_________________
2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

ASD relay is the last large one adjacent the battery - means Auto Shut Down, kills the engine and all electrical at key-off

The ASD Feed fuse is adjacent the missing Fuel Priming fuse

Need the EURO FSM for correct wire colors

The US FSM does show the fuel pump wiring as being factory-installed for Left Hand and Right Hand (EURO?) drive vehicles

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

Fuse 16. where is the wiring for that though? where would be the easiest place to tap into it closest to the rear of the vehicle. This totally sucks not having the relevant fuse and relay.

Unfortunately, none of that goes past the engine - only hot wire going to the rear would be a wire for trailer power with the towing package option

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

well I do have a towbar and electrics. This just sucks not having the 'proper' wiring in place. It seems the UK have been stuffed with that!
so my only realistic option is to run a cable basically the length of the vehicle.
I really appreciate all the replies on this.
Not sure what the other wiring is for under the rear seat, as none of them seem to have power with either ign on or off, apart from that one which I think is for the fuel gauge.
I'll have to look and see where would be easiest to tap into, and just put an inline fuse in. The pump only draws about 1.5a if i'm not mistaken, so surely a 3a fuse would be suitable. or perhaps a 5a?
just on a side note- is there any real potential issue with the pump running continuously since this is the only way possible?

Dan, other than loosing the auto shutdown option, as gmctd said in his post, there is no issue doing your own wiring. I consider this way better as you can install a switch to turn it on/off. If you connect it to an ignition plus (such as radio) and a relay (heck, with 1.5A draw you don't really need a relay either), you can not forget the pump on once you'll stop the engine. I'd also add a 5A fuse, if it's a short somewhere, the fuse will more than likely blow before the pump, but I also think a 3 A and even a 2A would do.

_________________
2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

not sure where to take a feed from then. I've been told there is a connector down near the hood release catch that has the feed for the blower motor. I may just end up tapping into that. I know that also isn't ideal, but I'm kinda stuck really.

2003 KJ Liberty 2.5 CRD

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

Finally, one of you has twigged that it ain't so easy - the wheel has to be reinvented nearly every time one starts a mod over this "side" of the world.

I've been ragged for years for saying there are many, many both subtle and NOT SO SUBTLE differences and that is why I got hold of USA published (early in the piece) and EXPORT MANUALS and parts fiche as soon as they became available. Have copped heaps of why not use the ones here on LOST? YOU now know the reason - guidance only.

For the OP, I have a Facet sitting here to approach this same job as preventative measure for the reasons posted by the "blue man" in particular an absolute abhorrence of a system that draws so far through so many potentially airy intersects but this is low on my list of priorities.

Winter is catch-up time after a long hard summer due to illness (every dang summer) from an accident some years ago that is unmendable and quite physically gimping. Cooler is kind to me. Cold is great.

Should I get a chance over this ( ) weekend break will pull the info - but no promises.
I'm more interested in turning battery through 90 degrees and adding some other kit I may record this process and post as I haven't seen this B4. It may interest some others......... also making a Tranny lifter etc.


There are more complete versions floating about than the (abridged) manuals on the Forums. I do have the FULL print version which covers every permutation offered.

In the meantime, suggest you might try the FSM at the AUSJEEPOFFROAD forum - they are listed on the cover page.
I strongly suspect these are the same as those posted on LOST, however.

If you put a switch for the pump, then you can turn it off when key is in accessory mode, as gmctd said. For me, this works best (I have switch and the plus is from radio) because when i do the fuel filter change, I just turn the key on accessory and let the pump run for few minutes, this will purge all the air from the filter and I won't need to prime it or fill it with diesel and make a mess under the hood.

Obviously your call, no solution is perfect. I one like mine a lot.

_________________
2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Dan, as I read it ([b]for your model[/b]):

I note you have '03 2.5 l, hence, I assume that means you have the Racor filter and head fitted there are some differences in the early wiring presentations given there was the 2.4 petrol as well as the 3.7 l petrol and your 2.5 diesel.
I did get a chance to look and think from your photos and the info I have to hand:

Pin # 2 , Pin 7 are not used on C307.
I read it as:
The "gasser" pins that drive the motor - more used to the word petrol for getting power to the pump for your model are:
#3, as described in following plus #'s 8, 9 and 10

According to my information on this particular model:
You only got some of the wiring loom (more model variants early on) as they condensed production and variants were reduced to two engine variants they started to use common looms.

You need to refer to :
8W-30-2
8w-30-3 and then
particularly the RHD diagram 8W-30-5 from your respective year for the wiring diagram for the pump module etc.

It does seem you have the wires for part of the back end but NOT actually in the PDC.
I would warn against fiddling with that as its multi-layered and underneath that so simple looking façade is quite complex and does not like being touched.
You could always make your own front part of the circuit and marry that to the wire I think you do have in your car that leads to connector C307.

That wouldn't be too hard. By that I mean it appears from your photos that you do have the wire (DG/WT) for the positive side of the pump (driver) heading off to the front of the vehicle from conn 307 (called body side). At least you could trace this and use that wire from further up without running it all the way.
As I read it the pump power IN is the DG/WT wire and the PUMP ground is the BK/LB....at terminals #3 and #6 respectively.

Of course you need to decide how to get power up to there given the PDC doesn't seem to be hot in that sense.
So the good news is you appear to have the wire run to the next connector to the front at least.

Now you need to source power appropriately. I won't presume to offend and tell you how to build the circuit unless you ask me to.

Caveat on that is CHECK MY THINKING.
In early production runs they did use separate wiring looms for petrol and diesel powered units as explained.
A few quirks in the early models.
Its a bit like your not having a MAF - the MAP algorithm does AP, IAT, BOOST, etc. just as one example.
I checked the diesel engine supplement and that threw no extra light on this.

Hope that helps but of course I strongly suggest you verify my drivel with a meter and checking the way I've interpreted it.
Good luck.

thanks for All the replies! I was poking around earlier and found that the easiest switched feed to tap into wouod be for the blower motor. I think this is the road I'll go down when the time comes. I'll just put a 5a inline fuse and run to the back, under the rear seat and out the grommet that's there.


2003 KJ Liberty 2.5 CRD

Make sure to note any changes\alterations to the wiring in the FSM for future ref

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

Good idea. Never thought of that [THUMBS UP SIGN] I really hope once I've fitted it that it solves my issue. Getting really boring having to bleed the system every few days...

2003 KJ Liberty 2.5 CRD