Bad Engine?

canonoch1 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 10, 2013 2:59 am **Posts:** 77

Been having low boost issues with our liberty. the other day the wife was driving home it started a rattle and lots of smoke. I pulled and cleaned the EGR, MAP, sensors checked oil level, done a oil change less than 1000 miles ago. started it up and took it down to get fuel a bit of a rattle the whole way and lots of smoke. got fule and when i started it at the pump the oil light was taking to long to go out. i turned it off and restarted it 3 times before the oil light went off within 5 sec.Driving it home slight up hill it was ok but if i throttle it up a bit more it had a nasty rattle at under 2000 RPM's. got it home and opened the hood. the wife throttled it up and it sounded like a rod was banging away. What are your thoughts?

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sat Feb 21, 2015 10:32 pm

sounds like a toasted rocker. has no power? Yeah, I was surprised how loud a bad rocker is, I was sure I had a bearing issue...

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Feb 21, 2015 11:42 pm

Check the rockers first. If you don't find anything conclusive there... Then you have to consider the bottom end.

canonoch1 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 10, 2013 2:59 am **Posts:** 77

would bad rockers cause a oil pressure issue?

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Feb 22, 2015 1:48 pm

no, but it can drop a valve and destroy the entire engine in an instant. What oil are you using, and where are you located? I'm curious if you're in a really cold climate and combined with too thick of an oil, could be bad quick.

It would make sense if you really do have low oil pressure that you have bearing issues. I added an oil pressure gauge to monitor mine. hmm, I hate to tell you to check connections on the sender and start it again. If the oil pressure is low, you don't want to start it at all. dang :banghead:

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Feb 22, 2015 2:11 pm

Checking the connection on the sender really isn't conclusive, the sensor is completely crap. The most likely scenario is a broken rocker, but oil pressure issues could certainly cause bottom end damage. The problem is, you'll never know this just from the sensor. Where are you located?

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Feb 22, 2015 2:12 pm

Oh, and I would suggest against starting it again until you know exactly what's wrong.

thermorex · **Posted:** Sun Feb 22, 2015 4:13 pm

An oil pressure and oil temperature gauge are essential to any engine. I really don't know why any car does not come with those stock. Or maybe I do, the driver is dumbed down by the industry that needs to make money...

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Feb 22, 2015 4:20 pm

Come now, you can do better than that at figuring out why they don't have actual gauges!

Gauges cost money, and tell you what is happening BEFORE you need to buy a new car or a new engine. Idiot lights are cheap, give the average low-information driver a security blankey feeling that they might be told about a problem before it is catastrophic... But we know the truth, as evidenced too often on this and many other car-centric forums. But the manufacturer doesn't care - Gauges cost them real money in advance, and may eliminate large potential future incomes. Idiot lights are cheap and retain that large future income.

Learning the lesson that gauges are important... Will be an expensive lesson for the driver, and the car maker will be happy to collect that money.

canonoch1 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 10, 2013 2:59 am **Posts:** 77

I am in SW Oregon and unlike the east coast our winter has been dry ( way to dry ) and warm our nights lately been in the upper 20's low 30's. I use m Mobile 1 5W-30 oil. during the week after work I'll get the valve cover off and start checking the rockers. if the engine is done then it just my time in checking it out. Bad part I still owe on it and gonne need to save mony to buy the parts :cry:

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Feb 23, 2015 11:58 am

canonoch1 wrote:

I am in SW Oregon and unlike the east coast our winter has been dry ( way to dry ) and warm our nights lately been in the upper 20's low 30's. I use m Mobile 1 5W-30 oil. during the week after work I'll get the valve cover off and start checking the rockers. if the engine is done then it just my time in checking it out. Bad part I still owe on it and gonne need to save mony to buy the parts :cry:

You said you use 5-30 oil, is that correct or you meant 5-40? Just curious, I've been looking for a 30 weight diesel oil for years in us, all I find is imports from Europe that are quite expensive.

rancherman · **Posted:** Mon Feb 23, 2015 1:11 pm

geordi wrote:

Come now, you can do better than that at figuring out why they don't have actual gauges!

Gauges cost money, and tell you what is happening BEFORE you need to buy a new car or a new engine. Idiot lights are cheap, give the average low-information driver a security blankey feeling that they might be told about a problem before it is catastrophic... But we know the truth, as evidenced too often on this and many other car-centric forums. But the manufacturer doesn't care - Gauges cost them real money in advance, and may eliminate large potential future incomes. Idiot lights are cheap and retain that large future income.

Learning the lesson that gauges are important... Will be an expensive lesson for the driver, and the car maker will be happy to collect that money.

add to this^^^
Trying to explain to thousands of customers why their OP is different than their neighbors'. With a gauge, they'd have an actual 'number'. some are going to be higher than others... and the ensuing mass hysteria from freaking customers would over run the customer service desk...
idiot light solves that! 'boink' the light comes on.... and it's done! Kinda like a guillotine.. very little foreplay..

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Mon Feb 23, 2015 2:13 pm

thermorex wrote:

canonoch1 wrote:

I am in SW Oregon and unlike the east coast our winter has been dry ( way to dry ) and warm our nights lately been in the upper 20's low 30's. I use m Mobile 1 5W-30 oil. during the week after work I'll get the valve cover off and start checking the rockers. if the engine is done then it just my time in checking it out. Bad part I still owe on it and gonne need to save mony to buy the parts :cry:

You said you use 5-30 oil, is that correct or you meant 5-40? Just curious, I've been looking for a 30 weight diesel oil for years in us, all I find is imports from Europe that are quite expensive.

In my 6.5 diesels I have been using Amsoil 5w30 heavy duty diesel engine oil for years. It is what their tech service recommended when I first switched to Amsoil.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Feb 23, 2015 2:14 pm

is that a turbo diesel specific oil?

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Mon Feb 23, 2015 2:19 pm

Mountainman wrote:

is that a turbo diesel specific oil?

I do not know if it is specific to turbo diesels or not. The 6.5's I have are turbo diesels. But I did have one 6.5 non aspirated

Amsoil tech service 715 399 8324

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Feb 23, 2015 2:33 pm

canonoch1 wrote:

I am in SW Oregon and unlike the east coast our winter has been dry ( way to dry ) and warm our nights lately been in the upper 20's low 30's. I use m Mobile 1 5W-30 oil. during the week after work I'll get the valve cover off and start checking the rockers. if the engine is done then it just my time in checking it out. Bad part I still owe on it and gonne need to save mony to buy the parts :cry:

Oops, my bad Jrsavoie, I was asking the OP about his oil. Is that the Mobile one Turbo Diesel 5w-30?

flman · **Posted:** Mon Feb 23, 2015 4:07 pm

geordi wrote:

Come now, you can do better than that at figuring out why they don't have actual gauges!

Gauges cost money, and tell you what is happening BEFORE you need to buy a new car or a new engine. Idiot lights are cheap, give the average low-information driver a security blankey feeling that they might be told about a problem before it is catastrophic... But we know the truth, as evidenced too often on this and many other car-centric forums. But the manufacturer doesn't care - Gauges cost them real money in advance, and may eliminate large potential future incomes. Idiot lights are cheap and retain that large future income.

Learning the lesson that gauges are important... Will be an expensive lesson for the driver, and the car maker will be happy to collect that money.

Pus they can ignore the light for a while, since it is giving no pertinent information.

To the OP, I would temporarily connect a mechanical gauge and see what it reads.

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Feb 24, 2015 10:35 am

Mountainman wrote:

canonoch1 wrote:

I am in SW Oregon and unlike the east coast our winter has been dry ( way to dry ) and warm our nights lately been in the upper 20's low 30's. I use m Mobile 1 5W-30 oil. during the week after work I'll get the valve cover off and start checking the rockers. if the engine is done then it just my time in checking it out. Bad part I still owe on it and gonne need to save mony to buy the parts :cry:

Oops, my bad Jrsavoie, I was asking the OP about his oil. Is that the Mobile one Turbo Diesel 5w-30?

Mobil 1 td truck synthetic comes in 5w40, not 5w30. I think jrsavoie used a non synthetic amsoil, am I right?

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Tue Feb 24, 2015 10:42 am

thermorex wrote:

Mountainman wrote:

canonoch1 wrote:

I am in SW Oregon and unlike the east coast our winter has been dry ( way to dry ) and warm our nights lately been in the upper 20's low 30's. I use m Mobile 1 5W-30 oil. during the week after work I'll get the valve cover off and start checking the rockers. if the engine is done then it just my time in checking it out. Bad part I still owe on it and gonne need to save mony to buy the parts :cry:

Oops, my bad Jrsavoie, I was asking the OP about his oil. Is that the Mobile one Turbo Diesel 5w-30?

Mobil 1 td truck synthetic comes in 5w40, not 5w30. I think jrsavoie used a non synthetic amsoil, am I right?

No. The Amsoil is a full synthetic 5w30 heavy duty diesel engine oil - I have used this in all of my GM 6.5 diesel engines since the 1990's

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g1301.pdf

I use Amsoil European formula that is recommended by Amsoil tech services for the 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD. They have both a 5w40 and 5w30 blend

https://www.google.com/search?q=Amsoil+ ... 3&ie=UTF-8

amslube · **Posted:** Tue Feb 24, 2015 2:18 pm

I've been using the Amsoil 5W-30 HDD in my Liberty since we got it in '07. Starts good in the cold without plugging in. I've done some OA on this and no problems going the distance. Also, just had the engine apart for a HG replacement last week and no sign of wear in the rockers, 117,600 miles on the CRD. Turns out the HG didn't fix my external coolant leak, appears to be a cracked block on the rear passenger side upper corner of the block just below the head...OUCH!

Bad Engine?

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