Are you supposed to push the plunger in the fuel head back down and turn clockwise after priming, etc.? I've been experiencing air in fuel (on starts only), and I'm thinking maybe I missed an obvious source, by leaving the plunger up. Before I go replacing supply lines, dropping the tank, installing a lift, etc., I just want to make sure I didn't do something stupid by leaving the plunger up. And, yes, I know that a lift pump or inline pump is the best solution to these type of problems, thanks to the awesome folks on this forum...I'm just trying to find a quick fix for the time being.

_________________
David T.
**DEAD**2005 CRD Limited 4X4 - Stone White **DEAD**
116,000 miles
RRO Rockfather Deluxe Lift (OME/KYB GR-2/RRO)
GDE Eco Tune
SAMCO Sport CAC Hoses
Hayden Fan Clutch
Updated Litens Serpentine Tensioner
European Graf Water Pump
Nitro Rear Diff Cover w/Lubelocker Gasket

Yes. open the bleed screw, pump up plunger, tighten bleed screw, then tighten plunger.

2003 KJ Liberty 2.5 CRD

Different strokes for different folks...depends on your head.
Mopar/Chrysler filter is primed differently to the Racor (which I suspect Dan may have ILO vintage).
Pump to pressurise until the plunger is quite firm then release the nipple and any pressurised air and fuel will spray into the cloth you've diligently placed between the engine and the filter head to catch the spray - then nip up B4 starting after you're very confident ALL air has hissed off.
Repeat until no air hisses at you as the snake it is (in this case).
Racor head is a different process as Dan correctly eludes to (I think).

As you're in Florida I'd be suspecting you have the Mopar type.
Hope I'm getting years right here.

My bad! Yes, I have the Racor.

2003 KJ Liberty 2.5 CRD

No.
There is no pushing down and turning the plunger after priming.
Just pump, bleed the air, tighten the bleeder, and stop.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

The factory plunger head assembly plunger doesn't rotate (it may swivel but that does nothing) but the process is to pump it firm first, THEN open the bleeder screw to let off the air and spits, close it before it finishes to preserve the vac. Repeat until the result is just fuel and no air.

If you are having daily air in fuel that makes it hard to start, check your fuel head. Do you have a big blue plug on the right side of those two on the front? If not... Is that smaller plug wet inside or smells of diesel? That is the first generation fuel head, and has a nasty habit of causing fuel leaks and FIRES. Leave the fuel heater unplugged for the summer (don't need it anyway) and if the leak is still there, you will need the replacement fuel head. As a temporary measure, spray some brake cleaner into the socket, and then fill the hole with red RTV to create an air block. You will be able to drive with that until you can replace the fuel manager.

I believe idparts has the new ones, but if not, then just get it from a dealer.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 125 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Thanks for the info, guys, and thanks to you, geordi. I have the second gen filter head, and I can't figure out why I've been having rough starts lately. It all started a couple of months ago with a glow plug code for plug #2. It was starting just a little rough with the bad glow plug, but I drove around for a month before replacing with the etecno 7v. As soon as I replaced, I expected the CEL to go out. It didn't, so I scanned and found a new code for glow plug #1. It started even rougher for a week or two with glow plug #1 being bad, even in warm Florida temps. So, I ordered up another etecno, and replaced plug #1. That was the end of the CEL issue, but the truck continued to start as rough as it did with bad glow plugs (and this CRD, in the year and 1/2 that I've owned it, has always started immediately, even with an underpowered, cheap carquest battery that the dealer or previous owner threw in, and I've since replaced).

So, though it coincided with the glow plugs failing, it seems the rough starts are continuing, leading me to wonder about air in fuel, and various other scenarios. I have a little white smoke upon acceleration after starting with the extra cranking...I guess maybe there's some excess fuel getting dumped in there during the rough start? I'll finalize by saying that the truck runs flawlessly after it's started...even under quick acceleration and spirited driving. It also starts fine if I turn it off for a few minutes to run in a store, etc. So, it seems that only the cold starts suck (even it they're not true "cold" starts of the northern variety).

I'm more than willing to replace some fuel lines, quick connects, etc., but it just seems odd that this all started with the glow plugs.

In other notes, I've been losing a little coolant lately, but it seems to stop if I keep the level under the seam in the overflow tank, which is odd. Maybe there's a small leak in the seam? I was a little paranoid about head gasket issues, but I'm pretty sure my concerns are baseless. I've also heard a failing injector can cause a little white smoke upon starting...something about excess fuel draining into the cylinder, maybe? But, again, I'd be shocked if there was anything serious going on with that.

Well, any thoughts are appreciated. I would like this thing to fire up with certainty, like it has for the last year and 1/2....I've been enjoying this little beast, despite all the curious troubles these CRDs have...

_________________
David T.
**DEAD**2005 CRD Limited 4X4 - Stone White **DEAD**
116,000 miles
RRO Rockfather Deluxe Lift (OME/KYB GR-2/RRO)
GDE Eco Tune
SAMCO Sport CAC Hoses
Hayden Fan Clutch
Updated Litens Serpentine Tensioner
European Graf Water Pump
Nitro Rear Diff Cover w/Lubelocker Gasket

I have an inline pump, but recently I have been getting air in the line. There is still the fitting at the tank that is subjected to low pressure. The air causes the idle to sound a little extra rattly. I suppose it might have something to do with the injectors slamming down a bit harder than they would if there were no air. Anyway, it still starts right up every time, even in 20° temps. Your problem might be something else.

_________________
2005 Liberty Limited CRD; Air Filter Monitor; Samco Hoses; GDE HOT Tune; RL037142AA TC; KJ Interior Rack from All J Products; JBA Adjust-a-strut lift and A-Arms; 245/75R16 Firestone Destination ATs on Moabs; ARB Bumper; ASFIR Skids; FS-2500 Bypass Filter; ARP studs.
2016 Grand Cherokee Overland CRD.

Yeah...I was kind of wondering if something else might be at play here. I wonder, is there any scenario or condition that can cause the glow plugs to fail, and also rough starts. Maybe I don't have the "cart behind the horse," so to speak. Maybe something knocked out my glow plugs and caused the rough starting? I don't know. I replaced the fuel filter 6 or 8 months ago, and it didn't seem to cause any problem at all, so I don't think it's that. I get good quality fuel here in Florida. Stumped...

Just for kicks, I may reload the factory tune, and see if anything changes. Does a stuck EGR valve still cause a code with the GDE tune, I wonder...?... I've heard that can cause rough starts. Also, the fuel delivery at start up with the factory tune might be a little different than the GDE tune. Maybe I'll learn a little more from experimenting for a few days...

_________________
David T.
**DEAD**2005 CRD Limited 4X4 - Stone White **DEAD**
116,000 miles
RRO Rockfather Deluxe Lift (OME/KYB GR-2/RRO)
GDE Eco Tune
SAMCO Sport CAC Hoses
Hayden Fan Clutch
Updated Litens Serpentine Tensioner
European Graf Water Pump
Nitro Rear Diff Cover w/Lubelocker Gasket