Spare wheel mount

dirtmover · **Posted:** Sat Apr 18, 2015 7:09 pm

There are a couple of metal plates behind the spare tire mount. Mine are rusted to hell and it's staining my tailgate and bumper. I don't see them in the parts fiche. What are these plates called? Where can I get replacements?

Anyone else have this issue?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Apr 18, 2015 8:49 pm

There is the bracket the tire mounts on which I think is 55155933AC and like 4 bolts that the bracket mounts to but how those bolts attach to the door I don't know, probably would have to pop the plastic interior trim to tell.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Sun Apr 19, 2015 9:26 am

Yeah, the bracket is in OK shape. The metal plates don't appear on the fiche and the only part whose description may fit is the gasket part #55360585AA but they don't show them in the picture so I can't be sure.

Here is a pic of what I mean:

thermorex · **Posted:** Sun Apr 19, 2015 10:54 am

It seems the rust bothers you, if you can't buy then new, by looking at the pic looks like you can unscrew the bolts from inside the door and remove the plate. You can either have some new made, looks relatively simple as a straight plate, either grind them very well with a brush, soak them in phosphoric acid (Home Depot has that for sale) for a day and then paint them back and they won't rust for 10 years for sure if this is done properly. Probably cheaper alternative but very time consuming.

dan86 · **Posted:** Sun Apr 19, 2015 11:06 am

thermorex wrote:

It seems the rust bothers you, if you can't buy then new, by looking at the pic looks like you can unscrew the bolts from inside the door and remove the plate. You can either have some new made, looks relatively simple as a straight plate, either grind them very well with a brush, soak them in phosphoric acid (Home Depot has that for sale) for a day and then paint them back and they won't rust for 10 years for sure if this is done properly. Probably cheaper alternative but very time consuming.

that's what i'd be doing too.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Sun Apr 19, 2015 8:52 pm

The studs simply screw into the door from the outside. No need to remove the trim or anything.

The top plate may be salvageable but the bottom one disintegrated when I took it off.

thermorex · **Posted:** Sun Apr 19, 2015 9:07 pm

Can you make one from some Home Depot steel plate they have there? They come in various sizes and length, and they have those in the hardware area, where they keep screws, bolts, metal bars, etc. I think they have from 1/16 till 1/4 thick galvanized steel, maybe even thinner. They also have aluminum. But you'll need to cut them to the proper size. Also, maybe a junkyard may have some?

dirtmover · **Posted:** Mon Apr 20, 2015 8:17 am

Yeah, I've got some 1/8" x 2" wide steel bar. I guess I'm gonna be making my own :idea:

though I am wondering if a large washer would be sufficient.

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Apr 20, 2015 9:26 am

Till you said it, I didn't even think about it... I'm thinking the upper part may not need that bar but the lower would? The mount of the wheel would pull down when wheel is there, right, since it pushes towards the lower part and pulling from upper. When driving on bumpy road the spare tire would tend to move up and down more and left and right less, which would probably justify the use of bars rather than washers. Regardless, I think some thick washers can be enough, since you said the bolts (or more likely studs) are screwed in the inside of the tail gate, so that must be reinforced... I'd one would use the steel bar, but I think some hefty washers can be enough also.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Mon Apr 20, 2015 10:04 am

The structure behind the door skin is pretty solid and there is zero evidence of any corrosion behind the plates or in the holes that the studs thread into.

I guess the plates were just poorly made but it was their absence from the fiche that made me wonder if they were even installed on all models?

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Mon Apr 20, 2015 10:23 pm

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Chrysler- ... B00G0OMSUA

Found them

dirtmover · **Posted:** Tue Apr 21, 2015 7:48 am

Thanks, that's the part. P/N makes things a lot easier. Dealer wants $28 a piece up here :roll:

Looks like it's back to plan B.

It seems like a common problem. I found a few other owners with crumbling brackets.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Apr 21, 2015 8:42 am

Just a thought; If I lived where they salt the roads, I would go to a local machine shop or welding shop and have some made from 1/8 X 2" stainless steel. Never have to worry about them rusting again!!! :idea:

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Apr 21, 2015 10:51 am

WWDiesel wrote:

Just a thought; If I lived where they salt the roads, I would go to a local machine shop or welding shop and have some made from 1/8 X 2" stainless steel. Never have to worry about them rusting again!!! :idea:

As this would be best, I'm not sure it's worth. The galvanized steel bars Home Depot has would also hold a long time, way longer than the jeep probably. And this is doable relatively easy with limited tools.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Tue Apr 21, 2015 11:28 am

thermorex wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

Just a thought; If I lived where they salt the roads, I would go to a local machine shop or welding shop and have some made from 1/8 X 2" stainless steel. Never have to worry about them rusting again!!! :idea:

As this would be best, I'm not sure it's worth. The galvanized steel bars Home Depot has would also hold a long time, way longer than the jeep probably. And this is doable relatively easy with limited tools.

Agreed, I expect to get 5-6 more years out of this vehicle. I'm not using it in the winter any more but the damage is probably done.

Now, if I'd known the areas that were susceptible to rot day one I wouldn't be in this mess.

The body is in not bad shape but anything that's stamped steel and painted black seems to be problematic:
- spare mounting brackets
- skid plate
- timing cover
- rear brake shoe mounting plates
- ....

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Apr 22, 2015 9:34 am

dirtmover wrote:

thermorex wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

Just a thought; If I lived where they salt the roads, I would go to a local machine shop or welding shop and have some made from 1/8 X 2" stainless steel. Never have to worry about them rusting again!!! :idea:

As this would be best, I'm not sure it's worth. The galvanized steel bars Home Depot has would also hold a long time, way longer than the jeep probably. And this is doable relatively easy with limited tools.

Agreed, I expect to get 5-6 more years out of this vehicle. I'm not using it in the winter any more but the damage is probably done.

Now, if I'd known the areas that were susceptible to rot day one I wouldn't be in this mess.

The body is in not bad shape but anything that's stamped steel and painted black seems to be problematic:
- spare mounting brackets
- skid plate
- timing cover
- rear brake shoe mounting plates
- ....

You may take some of the bulk of rust with a high pressure washer, 3-4000+ psi, and then coat it with bed liner when it's dry, it won't hold as it is clean of rust, but extend the life of it a bit. Or if it's worth for you to grind the underneath rust, even better. I see a big difference in metal quality on the Crd vs the 99 Cherokee. Salt is a pain in the butt, my rear mounting brackets for the hand brake shoe is super rusty, even though the rest of the rear is in great shape with almost no rust, bad news is Napa does not seem to sell the whole replacement for the bracket assembly, but only the brackets.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Apr 22, 2015 12:23 pm

A very good product I have found for rust is Loctite 633877 spray Rust Neutralizer. Bought mine at Lowes. Just clean the rust area, scrap, sand, wire wheel, etc... and spray it, then let it set. It neutralizes the rust chemically and turns it black. When dry, repaint as desired.

I personally use it quite often and can attest to its performance...its good stuff and it really works!!! :wink:

dirtmover · **Posted:** Wed Apr 22, 2015 12:27 pm

thermorex wrote:

You may take some of the bulk of rust with a high pressure washer, 3-4000+ psi, and then coat it with bed liner when it's dry, it won't hold as it is clean of rust, but extend the life of it a bit. Or if it's worth for you to grind the underneath rust, even better. I see a big difference in metal quality on the Crd vs the 99 Cherokee. Salt is a pain in the butt, my rear mounting brackets for the hand brake shoe is super rusty, even though the rest of the rear is in great shape with almost no rust, bad news is Napa does not seem to sell the whole replacement for the bracket assembly, but only the brackets.

Oh, I also forgot to mention the rear control arms but Chrysler will take care of them with the safety recall.

My solution so far for smaller parts has been to abrasive blast them bare and then coat with POR-15. My cabinet is not huge so not so easy for big parts. The tranny cooler lines also seem to be highly susceptible for some reason.

Bajajeep · **Joined:** Tue Jul 07, 2015 7:21 am **Posts:** 2

How did you removed them?
I have a problem with my plates. It makes a skealing sound because there's a space between the gate and the plate and I tried to tighten them but the whole bolt turns I have removed the back panel looking for the bolt head and there is none.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Wed Jul 08, 2015 7:49 am

It's a stud with a flange in the middle that holds the plates in place. Remove the spare mounting bracket and you can then remove (or tighten) the studs using a torx socket.

Spare wheel mount

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