New to ME CRD... tare it apart!

Over · **Joined:** Sat Apr 25, 2015 10:34 am **Posts:** 34

New member, hi y'all, just bought an 05' CRD in the hippy plains of California's central valley. "Mechanics special" so good thing I'm an A&P :mrgreen:

Low boost, injector circuit 3, and ecu loss of RIM data are the relevant codes

I've verified that this particular Jeep has been neutered F37 style, has a starting issue after sitting for to long, and has a remaned turbo due to oil hose failure.

On the plate are a GDE hot tune, new glow plugs, new fuel filter head, EGR delete kit (stage 2), Amsoil bypass filter and relocation kit, new thermostat from diesel freak, and a thorough cleaning of the intake track.

And thats all before I lift it. :JEEPIN:

ECU code seems like a non issue, low boost is probably a line somewhere.

Any advice on the injector code?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Apr 29, 2015 9:31 am

Low boost can be caused by many things, bad or dirty MAP sensor, leaking boost hoses, leaking CAC, or problems with the turbo variable vane controller, solenoid, vacuum line, or actuator diaphragm or a stuck open EGR valve. There are a few more, but these are some of the most common. :roll:

As to the bad injector code, could be a bad injector, connector, or wiring issue. Most injector shops can test an injector. :idea:

Be sure and add a lift pump to your list, preferably an in-tank pump; it cures a multitude of fuel related start and run problems... :wink:

Over · **Joined:** Sat Apr 25, 2015 10:34 am **Posts:** 34

Thx for the advice.

Forum browsing today has added ARP studs, and an inspection of the rockers to my list. Head gasket....maybe

Over · **Joined:** Sat Apr 25, 2015 10:34 am **Posts:** 34

Started tare down.

The good: I have a nearly new EGR valve thingy, with the butterfly valve, for sale!

The bad: Battery is shot, but I may get a free one.

The Ugly: How many lbs of sideways force should it take to cause binding in the turbocharger?
I'm guessing it's a very high number.
Mine takes a very low number

EDIT: I think I was just being paranoid. It spins freely and doesn't contact the housing, no in and out play. barely any sideways play.

Over · **Joined:** Sat Apr 25, 2015 10:34 am **Posts:** 34

Taking the injectors out. 3 and 4 come out by hand, easy. #2 may take some doing, but I think it will come out. #1 is stuck hard.

I tried using a post puller with a 1/8 cable wrapped around the injector and and extra 2 feet on the puller thanks to a crow bar.... it snapped the cable.

Block heater is plugged in now...maybe some heat will do it

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sat May 09, 2015 7:29 am

Work slow while trying to wiggle them out.
Spray some lube in the injector hole to help.

I used a opened ended wrench to apply leverage while wiggling the injector.
It was slow and frustrating but eventually it came out.

Hexus · **Posted:** Sat May 09, 2015 9:11 am

You said Reman Turbo up at the top.

Our turbos are not rebuildable.... [absolutely, unequivocally NOT rebuildable]

If you have a rebuilt turbo, I would say get it the heck out and put a new one or a gently used one in there, despite the price tag.

The block heater will help with the injectors, P'Blaster is the best stuff ever, it's made out of ground up Unicorn horns and Pixie dust, get some.

The ECU is probably the harness rubbing on the firewall area or close by, it's a known issue.

Good luck with the other mods, pictures!

olypopper · **Posted:** Sat May 09, 2015 12:24 pm

Sometimes you can crank the engine over to "pop" the injectors out................use this method at your own risk and also make CERTAIN you have disconnected the CP3 feed line..........................or you'll make a mess.

:SOMBRERO:

Over · **Joined:** Sat Apr 25, 2015 10:34 am **Posts:** 34

flash7210 wrote:

Work slow while trying to wiggle them out.
Spray some lube in the injector hole to help.

I used a opened ended wrench to apply leverage while wiggling the injector.
It was slow and frustrating but eventually it came out.

It's being a pain in the butt, soaking in PB blaster

Hexus wrote:

You said Reman Turbo up at the top.

Our turbos are not rebuildable.... [absolutely, unequivocally NOT rebuildable]

If you have a rebuilt turbo, I would say get it the heck out and put a new one or a gently used one in there, despite the price tag.

The block heater will help with the injectors, P'Blaster is the best stuff ever, it's made out of ground up Unicorn horns and Pixie dust, get some.

The ECU is probably the harness rubbing on the firewall area or close by, it's a known issue.

Good luck with the other mods, pictures!

I've read all the posts about the turbo and after inspecting it I am not so worried. A turbo shop did the work, not the shade tree mechanic who did everything else on this Jeep. But it will be out and I'll give it to a local turbo shop for a check over.

olypopper wrote:

Sometimes you can crank the engine over to "pop" the injectors out................use this method at your own risk and also make CERTAIN you have disconnected the CP3 feed line..........................or you'll make a mess.

:SOMBRERO:

Ummmmm, no timing belt is off, won't be moving the crank any time soon. I'm sure I can find an extractor tool somewhere

Hexus · **Posted:** Sat May 09, 2015 5:51 pm

Alright, one last warning.

YOU CANNOT REBUILD OUR TURBOS, IT DOES NOT MATTER IF GARRET REBUILT IT (They won't and don't) YOU CANNOT REBUILD THEM.

You are risking your whole engine with a rebuilt turbo, it cannot be done, period, at all, no matter who did it.

I'll argue with you no more, your Jeep, your call.

Over · **Joined:** Sat Apr 25, 2015 10:34 am **Posts:** 34

Hexus wrote:

Alright, one last warning.

YOU CANNOT REBUILD OUR TURBOS, IT DOES NOT MATTER IF GARRET REBUILT IT (They won't and don't) YOU CANNOT REBUILD THEM.

You are risking your whole engine with a rebuilt turbo, it cannot be done, period, at all, no matter who did it.

I'll argue with you no more, your Jeep, your call.

As i understand it the stock turbo came with a threaded compressor wheel.

Mine has a threaded shaft with a nut.

Does this mean mine was "rebuilt" with a cartridge? I would assume yes.

Not really "rebuilt" in the way i think you are suggesting.

Update: I caved and bought the official injector tool off ebay, there are a few on there for $300 right now.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sun May 10, 2015 10:46 am

Over wrote:

Hexus wrote:

Alright, one last warning.

YOU CANNOT REBUILD OUR TURBOS, IT DOES NOT MATTER IF GARRET REBUILT IT (They won't and don't) YOU CANNOT REBUILD THEM.

You are risking your whole engine with a rebuilt turbo, it cannot be done, period, at all, no matter who did it.

I'll argue with you no more, your Jeep, your call.

As i understand it the stock turbo came with a threaded compressor wheel.

Mine has a threaded shaft with a nut.

Does this mean mine was "rebuilt" with a cartridge? I would assume yes.

Not really "rebuilt" in the way i think you are suggesting.

Update: I caved and bought the official injector tool off ebay, there are a few on there for $300 right now.

There was a running change made to the turbos. My 2005 has the original turbo with nut on shaft. Later ones came with threaded wheel.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun May 10, 2015 4:22 pm

Over wrote:

As i understand it the stock turbo came with a threaded compressor wheel.
Mine has a threaded shaft with a nut.
Does this mean mine was "rebuilt" with a cartridge? I would assume yes.
Not really "rebuilt" in the way i think you are suggesting.
Update: I caved and bought the official injector tool off ebay, there are a few on there for $300 right now.

As CatCRD said - this was a change, you cannot tell whether the turbo has been rebuilt just by looking at it. The center cartridge is precisely balanced and would need a computer balancer to attempt to mill off that nut to re-balance any changes. This is why it cannot be rebuilt - it cannot be balanced precisely enough outside of Garrett to survive the 120,000RPM that the turbo will attain.

Either the turbo is a Genuine Garrett, or it is a Green Diesel Turbo kit... Or you will want either of those options in short order. I have not heard of any of these Chinese replacements lasting more than a few months at best.

Over · **Joined:** Sat Apr 25, 2015 10:34 am **Posts:** 34

Thanks for all the advice. I am going to have a local shop, Diamond Diesel, check the shaft play and balance the turbo. It may be a risk but yall can watch and learn from my experience.

Also, the miller injector removal tool is worth it's weight in gold...and it's heavy!

Lastly, I pulled off the intake to find a full set of worn out rockers. 2-3 mm of play in all the rollers and the retaining ring on some the the hydraulic adjusters is broken. So there's a nice bill for more parts.

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

Over wrote:

Also, the miller injector removal tool is worth it's weight in gold...and it's heavy!

That's the truth!

Over · **Joined:** Sat Apr 25, 2015 10:34 am **Posts:** 34

4 of 4 injectors test BAD :banghead:

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Thu May 21, 2015 10:20 pm

Ouch!

For the record, the injectors are sorta 2 seperate pieces, you have the solenoid on top, and the nozzle. What exactly is bad? If the nozzles then MAYBE you could get new nozzles? If electrical your screwed I guess.

Over · **Joined:** Sat Apr 25, 2015 10:34 am **Posts:** 34

diesel_guy86 wrote:

Ouch!

For the record, the injectors are sorta 2 seperate pieces, you have the solenoid on top, and the nozzle. What exactly is bad? If the nozzles then MAYBE you could get new nozzles? If electrical your screwed I guess.

There is a licensed Bosch injection repair and test shop nearby with the full test stand.

1 injector was way shot, leaky nozzle seat

2 injectors passed the initial test but failed for inconsistency and "torque control" which sounds important

1 injector just failed for inconsistency

The shop is going to look at the guts of the best one, and i'll probably exchange the other 3

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2015 8:15 am

I'm not a licensed Bosch repair shop, but I find it hard to believe that these very expensive, and very hardy injectors went 3/4 bad like that. Remember that they're in business to sell you things.

What specifications did they test them by? I'm sure they might work still but don't meet their "STRICT SPECIFICATIONS."

Good luck, those things are stupid expensive.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2015 9:42 am

I have to go with Hexus here - it may be worth the effort to get a second opinion and certainly a spec sheet from the shop that tested them. You would be THE FIRST to have more than one injector test bad, and all four is highly unusual unless you have been trying to run your engine on finely ground granite instead of diesel.

These same injectors are in use in tens of thousands of much larger engines (cummins, for one) and flowing FAR MORE fuel than this engine could ever drink. Something seems decidedly fishy. The cost of a full set of injectors means that I would want to be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that this was the problem before laying out that kind of coin.

New to ME CRD... tare it apart!

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