Recently had battery go flat and changed it out. No issue. This was last Tuesday. Tonight, the new battery went flat so I need to pull alternator and have it checked and probably rebuilt.

That said, is there a guide to pulling the alternator anywhere? I sure can't find one though there is a lot of talk about the pulley. Or is it fairly easy. It is right up top but then I read about splash shields, etc. The thing is up top. What's going on? Is it that difficult? Advice needed as to how to get this thing out. There's a halo ring around it, but I think that stays or comes off when I take the alternator in. Looks like some sort of ring anyway around the perimeter.

Also determining how to remove the serpentine belt would help as well.

Ralf W.

You'll need to de-tension the serpentine belt tensioner, don't remember if it's a 13 or 14 metric socket?i think you turn it clockwise and the belt will not have tension in it, then you pull the belt out from the alternator pulley. The reason there is no walkthrough is because is really easy. Then you have 2 bolts on the front alternator and one in the back. The rear may be 17 metric and front 13, 14 or 15, I really don't remember. Make sure you either disconnect the battery, either tape the positive going in the alternator (after you take it from the alternator) so you won't make a short by mistake. You can get an alternator from autozone for less than 200 bucks I think. It comes with the decoupler and its lifetime warranty. There is a plastic cap in front of the pulley which is just a dust cover. If you get the autozone alternator, just pop the cover from old one and put it in the new one. A small screwdriver would do the trick and you can pry that out. Overall, this is a very easy job, don't worry.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Thank you Sir for your answer. I took a look at the alternator and the diagram for the serpentine belt tensioner. Not much room in there to get a socket and long handled ratchet on it! Three apparent bolts on the alternator. Thank you again!!

I did order an alternator from O'Reilly's for $145. Looks like the right kind in the picture but its on order so I won't know until Monday. The range of prices is crazy. Advance Auto wants over $400 for a couple of rebuilt. Then the core charge is another issue. Varying from $10-65. Think I'll keep this one and send it out for rebuild. I don't trust the store bought rebuilts.

I see 2 O'Reilly alternators that are "supposed" to fit the KJ CRD for ca. $145. One says "Pulley Type: Serpentine" which is just flat stupid and the other says "Pulley Type: Clutch Or Decoupler" which is slightly better. However, "clutch" and "decoupler" IIRC are not the same thing and the KJ CRD requires a decoupler. You may be able to tell when it comes in.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I'm hoping its correct. It looks like the one I have. The front, in the pictures looked like that decoupler piece on the front of mine. I'm definitely having the broken one rebuilt!

It's weird advance auto wants that much. Did you check online? Maybe you asked somebody that doesn't know what is talking about... I bought mine from adv auto like 3 or 4 years ago, a pos. I ended up returning it and replacing the pulley on my old one that is still running. I hear autozone ones are a bit better.

I keep forgetting about the viscous fan I don't have anymore (swapped it for an efan) and I have more space in there. But getting the serpentine belt kit from Napa or other parts store makes things easier.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

The big difference seems to be in the core charge. All the alternators with the decoupler seem to have a $60+ core charge. I think the regular ones have a $10 charge. The ones at Rock Auto are also in the $140's+ with the $60 core charge. I've been bit before on my TDI with these parts store rebuilt/reman pieces. You end up putting in several before you ever get a good one. That's why I'd like to get this one rebuilt, but I'm under a time crunch. Gotta figure out what I'm taking to Texas to pick up a kid from College.

The serpentine belt kit being the removal tool with the long bar? Got one, unfortunately in storage right now! All I have are my handtools/backpack junkyard tools.

Yes, it's sort of a standard serpentine tool removal, and it has a long handle. I also agree with rebuilding the alternator, usually remans are pos these days more than they aren't.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

For those following this topic possibly even at a later date, the serpentine tensioner is a 15MM and I used a ratchet with an extendable handle. The alternator bolts themselves are a 15 and two 13mm if I recall correctly. The top bolt for the battery connection is a 13 as well. Be careful when removing the plug next to the battery bolt. My plastic housing came apart and I had to glue it back together. Don't yank on that electrical plug. On mine, there was a tab on the back which was a pain to undo.

O'Reilly ordered the wrong alternator. Luckily it hadn't gotten here yet so I just cancelled it. It was the one with the $10 core charge where the correct alternators will have a $65 or so core.

I am going to take mine to the rebuilder. If he can't do it, then off to Rock Auto.

The one I bought from O'Reilly a couple years ago had a $10 core charge. I changed mine because they wanted $80+ for a decoupler and ~$120 for a new alternator AND decoupler. I kept the OE Denso alternator since it is still good, and the core was cheap. And FWIW, the decoupler on the new alternator went out about a year later, and I changed just the decoupler that time. I can check the box tomorrow and see what the part number is.

Thanks KC. The alternator is at the rebuilders. He was surprised about a diesel in a Jeep. Said it should be ready by the end of the week. We'll see.

FYI:
When I took my alternator to a local rebuilder a few months back, he told me that some other foreign cars also used the same decoupler pulley. He had them in stock. Installed a new one for 40 bucks and I was on my way....

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
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Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
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98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

I appreciate the information. My rebuilder said it was the decoupler and replaced it. $49 out the door and said the alternator was charging fine. In a way, i wish he'd rebuilt the whole thing. With 171,000 on the clock, I know I'll be into it again.

As for the install, and for me when I revisit this post when I do this again, loosen the arm that has the two 13 mm bolts in it that holds the back of the alternator bolt. Makes it real easy to put the alternator back in. Be careful removing the electrical connection. That plastic socket on the alternator is brittle and you'll have to crazy glue it on if you snap it off trying to manhandle the connection off.

Finally, the tensioner is a 15mm bolt as mentioned above. Problem is, its so tight in there with the ratchet, you can't get enough swing room towards the driver side. What I did was swing the ratchet and the tensioner as far as I could, located the belt on the lip of the alternator and then reset the ratchet going back to the passenger side, then pulling again to the driver side. Its a two step process. May work easier with the specialized tensioner pulley tool, but mine is still in my tool box in storage.

Now to get my 13mm deep drive socket out of the bottom of the car since it dropped all the way down!

I saw on one of the forums, probably this one, that Littens (sp?) make a de-coupler clutch that will fit on the KJ CRD.
This is a sealed greased unit as apposed to the dry standard unit....slightly smaller in diameter to the original but apparently works well and lasts longer!

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

I think is this one: PN 920834

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I believe I used a box end wrench on the tensioner (if you have a ratchet one even better) when I used to have the viscous fan. If you need more hand torque, extend it with a pipe.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Well, I know for a fact that the serpentine belt tool is the way to go!! How do I know? Had to take the alternator out again. I borrowed the tool from O'Reilly's though most of the other parts suppliers have them as well.

That said, we got the vehicle to an Advance auto right before the brand new battery went dead again, completely dead. Dashlights started to go on. They gave us a loaner battery which allowed us to test the alternator (again). It was putting out 11.6 or so volts.

Interestingly, this diagnosis was diametrically opposed to that of the rebuilder who said it tested fine. So much for that determination. But, I am going to take it back to him to have him rebuild it. Maybe stupid, we'll see but should be cheaper and hopefully more reliable than a parts house alternator.