fuel economy just plummeted...

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri May 15, 2015 9:40 am

RenKJ wrote:

thermorex wrote:

The caliper itself it's sliding through 2 pins through the caliper bracket. The rubber boot (one per caliper) is located inside and on one of the sliding pins (I think is the lower one but not 100% sure) , you can only see it when you slide out the caliper. That one tends to swolen up and create a slight drag, even if it is properly greased. Keep in mind I'm not talking about the 2 dust covers that are cylindrical "acordeon" type that are visible without removing the caliper. Those 2 are required in there and are not to be removed. The purpose of that one rubber boot that's on the sliding pin is to prevent any knocks and clicks when the caliper works, as I know.

It's item #6, the right pin in the link below that has the boot.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-brake ... iberty-kj/

Btw, the pic for #6 should only have one black rubber boot listed, not 2, a quick examination shows that just one pin (right) can accept it.
And sure, adding some ceramic high temperature Grease on the pins is a good idea.

Appreciate the info, is the best way of removing that hidden bottom pin boot, taking the brakes apart?

Yes, it is on a sliding pin, so to get access to it, you should slide out the caliper. Of course, pay attention to the accordion dust covers, and it's recommended to clean the area properly prior to do this so you won't risk having all that dust getting on your guiding pins. Make sure you add some high temperature Grease on the pins, best is the purple ceramic Grease (Napa or auto parts). Do not use anti seize because that will dry out.

Oh, and reman calipers, if somebody ever gets some, make sure you inspect them, I replaced the calipers for an F150 a while ago and the rubber boot (those have them also...) was broken inside and half of it was all way up on the thick side of the pin, and that would definitely create drag.

bigblueCRD06 · **Posted:** Fri May 15, 2015 11:52 am

My first CRD had a rear caliper stick to the point of smoking (no fire, thankfully) and dragging the vehicle to the right. I originally thought it just had bad calipers and replaced both rears. A few weeks later, the problem came back. That's when I took everything apart and lubed it up with Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube from O'Reilly auto. Never had a problem with it again. On my second CRD, I lubed everything up before the problem had a chance to rear its ugly head.

Just my 2 cents.

RenKJ · **Joined:** Sat Jan 24, 2015 4:45 am **Posts:** 96

thermorex wrote:

RenKJ wrote:

thermorex wrote:

The caliper itself it's sliding through 2 pins through the caliper bracket. The rubber boot (one per caliper) is located inside and on one of the sliding pins (I think is the lower one but not 100% sure) , you can only see it when you slide out the caliper. That one tends to swolen up and create a slight drag, even if it is properly greased. Keep in mind I'm not talking about the 2 dust covers that are cylindrical "acordeon" type that are visible without removing the caliper. Those 2 are required in there and are not to be removed. The purpose of that one rubber boot that's on the sliding pin is to prevent any knocks and clicks when the caliper works, as I know.

It's item #6, the right pin in the link below that has the boot.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-brake ... iberty-kj/

Btw, the pic for #6 should only have one black rubber boot listed, not 2, a quick examination shows that just one pin (right) can accept it.
And sure, adding some ceramic high temperature Grease on the pins is a good idea.

Appreciate the info, is the best way of removing that hidden bottom pin boot, taking the brakes apart?

Yes, it is on a sliding pin, so to get access to it, you should slide out the caliper. Of course, pay attention to the accordion dust covers, and it's recommended to clean the area properly prior to do this so you won't risk having all that dust getting on your guiding pins. Make sure you add some high temperature Grease on the pins, best is the purple ceramic Grease (Napa or auto parts). Do not use anti seize because that will dry out.

Oh, and reman calipers, if somebody ever gets some, make sure you inspect them, I replaced the calipers for an F150 a while ago and the rubber boot (those have them also...) was broken inside and half of it was all way up on the thick side of the pin, and that would definitely create drag.

So by slide out the caliper you mean remove the bolts and, take it off the rotor and then compress; or use the brakes and push out the piston? Last time i worked brakes was when i had a car, its been a while and ive never accessed the slider pins specifically

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue May 19, 2015 11:11 pm

No, no need to push the big piston out. The caliper itself is sliding through the big bracket, which big bracket is secured on the steering knuckle. The caliper has 2 sliding pins that go through the rubber accordion dust covers in the big beacket. You need to remove the brake pads and slide out the caliper. If you would have to replace the rotors, then you would need to remove the caliper bracket also, but just to remove the rubber boot from one of the pins, you only need to remove the caliper itself from the bracket.

In the link I posted a while back

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-brake ... ng+125x125

#3 is the caliper and #41 is the bracket. When you separate #3 from #41, you'll see the guiding pins and rubber boot that creates issues on one of the pins.

RenKJ · **Joined:** Sat Jan 24, 2015 4:45 am **Posts:** 96

thermorex wrote:

No, no need to push the big piston out. The caliper itself is sliding through the big bracket, which big bracket is secured on the steering knuckle. The caliper has 2 sliding pins that go through the rubber accordion dust covers in the big beacket. You need to remove the brake pads and slide out the caliper. If you would have to replace the rotors, then you would need to remove the caliper bracket also, but just to remove the rubber boot from one of the pins, you only need to remove the caliper itself from the bracket.

In the link I posted a while back

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-brake ... ng+125x125

#3 is the caliper and #41 is the bracket. When you separate #3 from #41, you'll see the guiding pins and rubber boot that creates issues on one of the pins.

Thanks a bunch, if there was thumbs up things on here you'd get it, once the bracket for the pads is off its safe to remove the pina completely? Or should i just try to cut the rubber end thing off on each side, also i assume it's ok to leave the dust cover boots on?

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2015 11:35 am

Definitely leave the dust covers boots there, otherwise the dust and dirt will contaminate the Grease from the sliding pins. You just need to remove the rubber sleeve, it should slide out relatively easy. So, there are 2 small bolts (inner side of the caliper) that secure th caliper with the bracket. Untie those 2. Then slide the caliper outside and set it on the side (use some wire hanger and hang it to the spring or something). Then, the place you untied the 2 small bolts are also the sliding pins. Pull them out through the dust accordion boots. One of them will have the rubber sleeve on it. Remove that rubber sleeve, Grease well the pin and clean everything well and put back the sliding pins (obviously without rubber sleeve) through the rubber accordion dust covers. Then put back your caliper.

Use ceramic Grease preferably (it's usually purple), do not use anti seize as it dries out.

ShaqDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Jun 13, 2015 9:52 pm

thermorex wrote:

Definitely leave the dust covers boots there, otherwise the dust and dirt will contaminate the Grease from the sliding pins. You just need to remove the rubber sleeve, it should slide out relatively easy. So, there are 2 small bolts (inner side of the caliper) that secure th caliper with the bracket. Untie those 2. Then slide the caliper outside and set it on the side (use some wire hanger and hang it to the spring or something). Then, the place you untied the 2 small bolts are also the sliding pins. Pull them out through the dust accordion boots. One of them will have the rubber sleeve on it. Remove that rubber sleeve, Grease well the pin and clean everything well and put back the sliding pins (obviously without rubber sleeve) through the rubber accordion dust covers. Then put back your caliper.

Use ceramic Grease preferably (it's usually purple), do not use anti seize as it dries out.

A question on this topic: Is it normal to have slight rub of the brake shoes on the rotor when turning the wheel freely? I had the front end jacked up today and noticed that when spinning the front wheels by hand, there was a slight grinding noise that indicated this was happening.

I took your advice and removed the caliper, took off the two small bolts (removing the rubber boot on one of them) and greased everything thoroughly. After reassembly, there was still the slight grinding noise. Thank you for your help on this.

fuel economy just plummeted...

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