06 CRD Trans wont shift from neutral

xhizzous · **Posted:** Tue May 12, 2015 7:14 am

06 CRD yesterday while driving down the highway it seems like it stopped shifting. It all of a sudden acted like it was in neutral and wouldn't go so it was placed in neutral and coasted to a stop on the side of the road.

Upon inspection it was low on trans fluid so after that was topped off I tried to fire it up and see if it would drive but it does not. It acts like it is in neutral no matter where I put the selector. After I towed it home it seems like it will go into park, but every other selection it feels like it is in neutral.

Any suggestions?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue May 12, 2015 8:12 am

Start it up, let it idle in N, and check the fluid.
If the fluid is at the FULL-HOT mark, add another quart.
These transmissions work better when over filled.

Was there any kind of noise when it quit working?
Broken TC bolts will cause what you describe but will make a lot of noise.
If the clutches are burnt up the fluid will be almost black and smell burnt.

And of course, check for leaks.
Adding more fluid will not help much if its all leaking out.

xhizzous · **Posted:** Tue May 12, 2015 8:23 am

I have idled it in neutral for quite awhile and tried to run it in drive, I did add quite a bit of fluid. I cannot identify any leaks so far I looked all around the front cooler and down by the trans. I will probably pull the pan today.

There was really no warning whatsoever that it was going to quit like this thats what has me baffled.

Usually if the clutches are burning up or anything like that or a pump is having problems you might have some warning/ it will make noise or start doing goofy things.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue May 12, 2015 9:07 am

Weird things can happen if a) the flat filter splits or b) the side plate on the valve body comes loose. If either are the case a) replace filter with quality name brand (Mopar, Wix, NAPA not unknown eBay knock off) and/or b) install Transgo kit with better valves and side plate. Use only ATF+4.

If neither find good tranny shop. Nothing special about the KJ CRD automatic tranny as it's used in a bunch of DCJ vehicles.

xhizzous · **Posted:** Tue May 12, 2015 9:42 am

Since I will be taking it apart I might as well install the Transgo kit, I was already thinking about that. I had already serviced the filters a year or 2 ago, Both filters (mopar) and mopar atf+4. It had to have been a sudden failure .. usually only electronics fail like that but the lack of codes has be worried.

The only thing I have to go on now is it will whine when I put it in drive and rev the motor some.

I did find on another forum that someone had very similar problem, for them they ended up with stripped TC splines. My failure is exactly as they described it in that post.

http://www.toledotuners.com/vb/archive/ ... -5222.html

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue May 12, 2015 9:50 am

If you do have to deal with a torque convertor get the Euro and while you are in there that far the newer model stronger front pump.

xhizzous · **Posted:** Tue May 12, 2015 9:54 am

You would recommend the euro over the suncoast TC?

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue May 12, 2015 10:20 am

Suncoast is the best but I think papaindigo suggested euro for financial reasons. He also has Suncoast.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue May 12, 2015 10:48 am

The GDE Stage II turbo and SunCoast TC were my retirement presents to myself a few years back not to mention SunCoast is close to me and did the TC install in their shop. If you want indestructible and aren't worried about $s get SunCoast but if you want solid and $s matter get Euro.

xhizzous · **Posted:** Tue May 12, 2015 11:45 am

Will the Euro TC hold up to the GDE Turbo kit? In the future when/if the turbo ever fails I would like to just slap the GDE turbo kit on this thing. That is the reason I was interested in the difference.

Do you know the Part# for the upgraded trans pump? I have been looking but I cant find anyone that specifically mentions that part number.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue May 12, 2015 12:22 pm

Email Keith at GDE and ask him but as far as I know GDE is and has been running the Euro with their Stage II turbo.

PN on the newer pump is 68009879AB and I assume it comes with the appropriate gasket. Older pump and gasket have not been available for quite some time.

xhizzous · **Posted:** Tue May 12, 2015 3:54 pm

Ok, I'll probably get the pump then too if I can find it for a decent price.
These are the part numbers I have and what I have a bead on price wise

TC+Bolt kit as #RL037142AA for $400 from stealership with insider discount available overnight
TC only as #04736914AA for $341.25 out of Milwaukie
TC Bolts package as #01949765 for $2.61 each

Trans Filters are about $40

ebay has it as SK45RFE for the kit for our jeeps supposedly.
I don't know if summit sells the right transgo kit though. I found this as the only one for the 545RFE they sell and I'm not sure if it is the right one, under applications it lists 99-04 and doesn't list our motor.. though I figure few sites would...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trg-4 ... /overview/

was thinking about an aux trans cooler, this is the same one someone else used.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G4966/

If anyone knows are those part numbers right ?

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Tue May 12, 2015 4:51 pm

The Transgo kit addresses the front pump issues. I had mine apart the other day and the wear was minimal. I installed the 2 new valves that come with the kit. 1 addresses the drain back issue by replacing a valve with a self cleaning one. The other addresses the torque converter lock up issue with a new valve and spring. Some pumps also have an air check valve that leaks and causes more drain back issues. The Transgo instructions say it can be plugged. It's a common metric blt thread, but I can't remember what it is. (M8 x 1.25 I think) I used a hex cap screw to plug it, but I had to grind the circumference of the head down to make it fit. My tractor is still being assembled, so I don't have a report yet on the outcome. It's worth looking into to save a few hundred bucks though.

This is the kit I bought:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trg-45rfe-hd2

xhizzous · **Posted:** Mon May 18, 2015 10:07 am

Picked up the TC kit #RL037142AA, new trans filters, fluid, and Transgo Shift Kit #45RFE-HD2 on Friday. I'll try to pull it apart maybe this week/weekend and hopefully that's my only problem.

If I can I'll try to take some Pics of trans removal process and such because everyone likes pictures.

xhizzous · **Posted:** Thu Jun 04, 2015 11:13 am

Finally got time to work on this. Got the trans out and disassembled .. those top 2 bolts were a PITA. Had to use a 3 foot extension with wobble bit and undo them from back by the transfer case, that was the only way to get a shot at them.

No shavings or anything of that sort in the trans pan. The TC we pulled out looks shiny and brand new. Is there any way to test one to see if its bad?

I would hate to put this all back together and find out something else needs done.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 04, 2015 12:03 pm

While the transmission is out, manually work the shift lever on the side of transmission and make sure it clicks through each position. If it binds or moves with almost no resistance, there is a problem with the linkage inside.

I know of no way to test the operation of the TC while on the ground. But you can remove the TC and inspect the splines on the input shaft and the splines inside the TC. You may have to drain the fluid from the TC to do that.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Thu Jun 04, 2015 1:29 pm

xhizzous wrote:

.. usually only electronics fail like that but the lack of codes has be worried.

...unless there's something funky going on with the TCM and it thinks everything is OK. Did you try forcing it into "limp" mode before you removed the transmission?

xhizzous · **Posted:** Tue Jul 07, 2015 9:45 am

The failure was for sure the TC. It has a brand new Euro TC in now, also put a transgo kit in but it is having a hard time learning how to shift it seems.

The higher working fluid pressure was to much for the trans cooler lines and it looks like one failed right at the crimp on the radiator side. Below is the only place I have seen a good replacement. $144 plus shipping is a bit steep for some tubing though. I was thinking of trying to just cut the crimped trans hose off put a flare on the end of the existing tubing and running new hose with some high pressure stainless fuel injection clamps or something.

http://www.moparpartsdiscounted.com/?i= ... ecallout=1

Any thoughts?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Jul 07, 2015 10:25 am

Should work as that's what folks do when they add an aftermarket tranny cooler.

SargeIndustries · **Posted:** Tue Jul 07, 2015 3:03 pm

xhizzous wrote:

The failure was for sure the TC. It has a brand new Euro TC in now, also put a transgo kit in but it is having a hard time learning how to shift it seems.

The higher working fluid pressure was to much for the trans cooler lines and it looks like one failed right at the crimp on the radiator side. Below is the only place I have seen a good replacement. $144 plus shipping is a bit steep for some tubing though. I was thinking of trying to just cut the crimped trans hose off put a flare on the end of the existing tubing and running new hose with some high pressure stainless fuel injection clamps or something.

http://www.moparpartsdiscounted.com/?i= ... ecallout=1

Any thoughts?

That's what I did on mine. A failed crimp is what torched one of my clutch packs causing me to have to pull the transmission apart. I would check those transmission line crimps ever oil change.

06 CRD Trans wont shift from neutral

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