I am starting this post to document all the repairs, modifications, etc. on my Liberty KJ CRD. Feel free to ask questions about any of the repairs I did.
Bought at 91K miles. Everything looks stock when I bought it.
Initial observations: Oil leak near turbo oil return line. Little bump when putting transmission in reverse when cold.
ORM as soon as I got it!
First week end:
Change oil with Mobile 1 TDT 5W40. New Wix 51516 oil filter. Oil was too black.
The threads for oils drain were stripped. New Fumoto F-102 oil drain valve. Coated Fumoto threads with ultra gray Permatex.
Replace Wix 42329 air filter.
Second weekend:
Replace the fuel filter head and heater harness with Mopar second generation fuel filter head.
Check the glow plug type (at #4 cylinder) while the fuel head was out. Wrap a piece of paper towel soaked with Kroil around glow plug threads for 30 minutes. Glow plug came out with 10 mm deep socket wrench and 6 in wobble extension easily. I have 7V ceramic glow plugs so need to replace soon before they break in the cylinder! Put copper anti-sieze on threads before putting the glow plug back in.
Third weekend:
Replace front differential gear oil using Mobile 1 75W90 Full Synthetic GL-5. Use pump to make life easier:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQW5LKReplace ATF+4 in transfer case. Again used fluid pump.
Drain transmission fuel. Replace both transmission filters. Install Transgo kit components for valve body (springs, valve, expanding gaskets). Install transmission pan using rubber gasket. Forgot to put the magnet back in the pan!
Transmission took about 8.5 qt of Valvoline ATF+4 before I experienced shudder/jerk free shift.
Drain and replace power steering fluid with new ATF+4 (1/2 qt)
Funny story: My AC stopped working after fluid changes and I was scratching my head. I checked fuses, blower continuity, resistor pack continuity etc. Everything checks out. It turned out to be a false alarm. My son was playing inside cabin while I was working under the car (no keys!). My son set the blower selector to off. I never knew the blower selector had an off position. Most cars I have drove in past had off on the fan speed selector. Long story short: check for obvious before opening the whole dashboard!
Week of 05/23/2015:
Replace rear break pads
Replace rear coils and shocks with OME medium springs and OME nitro shocks. I had to compress the coil spring with
http://www.harborfreight.com/single-act ... 43753.html. Couple of things I learned: 1. Compress all but first and last coil loop so you can clear the strut spring compressor off the spring after the spring expands. 2. Keep the strut spring compressor on opposite side of the break calipers so you can wiggle the spring compressor out.
August 2015
Opened the top end up to valve cover.
Installed ARP studs. #10 bolt had sign of rust+goop and was torqued at 113 ft-lb, too low.
Installed new set of rockers. Used two long bolts to line up valve cover without any frustration.
Installed weeks 1+2 kits. Closing the exhaust plug was very frustrating due to lack of space.
New timing belt, water pump half, timing belt tensioner and timing belt idlers. Used "fan removal tool" from Napa to torque down the cam sprockets.
New serpentine belt. Used old tensioner and old idlers.
New alternator with clutch.
New upper and lower radiator hoses.
Inline stant 195 F thermostat with 1/8" drilled hole.
New Silicon CAG hoses from idparts.
New air intake hose, Mopar.
New fuel lines: tank to filter head, filter head to CP4 pump.
Replace low side AC liquid line. Evacuate and recharge AC system with 20oz of R134a.
New Hydan mechanical fan clutch and new plastic fan from 3.7L gasser.
New 7V metal glow plugs.
Added Provent. Drilled hole in the crankcase above oil sump from top boss freed from EGR cooler housing. Drilling a hole was a bad idea! Plugged the hole back. Routing Provent oil return line back to crankcase above sump level requires a check valve which costs another $50. Routed oil return line from provent into a plastic bottle.
New front upper (MOOG) and lower control arms (eBay, cheap Chinese).
New front lower ball joints (MOOG)
New tie rod end (MOOG)
OME struts and shocks, front.
New front break pads and rotors
Install towing light harness
Fix blown in-door speakers in front. Used subwoofer repair kit from eBay.
New rear gate gas lift supports
Sep 2015, 96000 miles:
Installed in-tank fuel pump.
Installed aluminium rear differential cover. G2 40-2029ALB cover. Fill capacity same as OEM i.e. 2.2 quarts.
Change rear differential gear oil.
Install second stage 2 micron fuel filter. Thread in CRD tech section.
Oct 2015, 97000 miles:
GDE Eco tune (seen 2 MPG gain over Yeti tune, lot more power than Yeti tune)
Jan 2016, 103000 miles:
Broke 30MPG highway record on GDE Full torque tune
Replace Motor/Engine mounts:
I just replaced the engine mounts and to say "Driver side bottom nut is PITA to get to" would be an understatement. Make sure you use 6-grove (as opposed to 12-groove) 18mm HEX short socket for the driver side bottom nut. I only had 12-grove HEX socket at hand. I wasn't able to tighten the lower nut to my liking with this socket without risking rounded nut edges. Also the passenger side bottom nut is not a straight shot so try to use flex joint for that as well. I had Weeks kit installed so I had to remove the weeks elbow to get to the top nut on the driver side. Other than those minor points, the write up at
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=77252 was on the money even without the pictures.
Fix the leak near the 2 micron fuel filter and added a fuel pressor sensor while I was there. Also routed the gauge wires via boot behind the fuel head. Wire are still not hooked up.
Under progress:
Muffler delete
Gauge install: Fuel temp, Exhaust temp, Oil pressure
Replace slip joint near transfer case on the front shaft
Pending items: AC compressor, gut out factory thermostat
Some day as things break:
Transmission: Transgo kit left over parts, new pump/valve, TC, rear seal. Hoping to cross 150K mile before I get here!
Turbo: Turbo, oil lines. I hope I never get here!
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