Leaking Coolant, pull to the HG or just ARP Stud it?

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Mon Dec 30, 2013 12:29 am

I have about 135,000 on the clock and I am loosing coolant on the frequent. about 10 oz a week or so, I have no signs of coolant coming out on the outside.

should I take it all the way down and replace the HG or just try to stud it? it is a DD

racertracer · **Posted:** Mon Dec 30, 2013 5:44 am

05infernoCRDL wrote:

I have about 135,000 on the clock and I am loosing coolant on the frequent. about 10 oz a week or so, I have no signs of coolant coming out on the outside.

should I take it all the way down and replace the HG or just try to stud it? it is a DD

- You can take your chances and not replace the HG, but are you prepared to redo the work if it fails. From what I hear, more often than not it fails.

Hexus · **Posted:** Mon Dec 30, 2013 10:52 am

If you're going to take the entire intake and then head studs off anyways, you'd be silly not to just go ahead and remove the head, clean the surfaces lightly, and replace the gasket before you torque down the new ARP studs.

I couldn't imagine having to do all that work over again because it was, in fact, a bad gasket and not just bolts that had yielded a bit.

kjjet · **Posted:** Mon Dec 30, 2013 12:21 pm

05infernoCRDL wrote:

I have about 135,000 on the clock and I am loosing coolant on the frequent. about 10 oz a week or so, I have no signs of coolant coming out on the outside.

should I take it all the way down and replace the HG or just try to stud it? it is a DD

Question for you: Is Coolant being pushed into the overflow part of your tank?

Depending on how long you plan on keeping your CRD?

Short Term= Pull the intake and Tighten down the installed studs. I believe you may do more harm trying to just replace them.
Long Term = Pull the intake and head & replace the HG.

Using APR Studs is debatable. They are better studs, for sure. But is the original studs the problem? or is it. Bad Gaskets? Bad factory install? Over boosting? Too much RPM for the little Diesel? Or a combination of all?

Good luck
KJJET

bugnout · **Posted:** Mon Dec 30, 2013 12:39 pm

Having just done this job, recommend you replace the HG. Its not that much more work to pull the head and hopefully you will get visual confirmation of where the leak is. Mine was leaking between the front two cylinders. No evidence of HG failure, still looked perfect, but no way to tell if it would leak by just tightening the head bolts.

kjjet · **Posted:** Mon Dec 30, 2013 1:21 pm

bugnout,

What were your signs of HG Failure? Any coolant being pushed to the right side of the tank?

Thanks
KJJET

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Mon Dec 30, 2013 2:05 pm

I haven't looked at the right side of the overflow.. All i know is i am losing a lot of cooland with no trace on the outside of the engine.. I get a stutter when it starts.. And after driving .4 of a mile today there was pressure in the coolant res.

Stealer wants $1800 to do the job.. I can prolly do it for half with better parts but it will take me a few days

I plan on keeping this truck for the long haul.. I have a boost gauge and it never goes over 25psi so i doubt over boosting..

kjjet · **Posted:** Mon Dec 30, 2013 2:14 pm

Believe it or not $1800 is a low price. But it you go there that number will double before its all over.

If you get a chance check the right side of the coolant tank.

Good luck
KJJET

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Mon Dec 30, 2013 2:18 pm

My friend who is a mechanic has a tester for exhaust in the coolant.. Im gonna run over there tomorrow and test it

SargeIndustries · **Posted:** Mon Dec 30, 2013 4:36 pm

bugnout wrote:

Mine was leaking between the front two cylinders. No evidence of HG failure, still looked perfect, but no way to tell if it would leak by just tightening the head bolts.

Mine was leaking between the front two cylinders as well. I wonder which cylinders were leaking on everybody elses?

bugnout · **Posted:** Mon Dec 30, 2013 11:05 pm

kjjet wrote:

What were your signs of HG Failure? Any coolant being pushed to the right side of the tank?
KJJET

Exactly. The Engine continued to run strong, no white smoke out the exhaust and no other symptoms. The coolant system was being pressurized. I wasn't loosing a lot of coolant, but it would never get sucked back into the tank from the overflow side. pressure under the cap even after sitting for 24 hours.

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Fri Jan 03, 2014 3:05 am

Today i did the burp.. Run for 30 sec... Burp again and i got a little bit of pressure.. Not a lot bit some

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racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Jan 03, 2014 5:33 am

05infernoCRDL wrote:

Today i did the burp.. Run for 30 sec... Burp again and i got a little bit of pressure.. Not a lot bit some

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Sorry to say, but any pressure under the cap is indicative that you need to prepare for a head gasket replacement.

If you perform the work soon while the leak is at its infancy you may prevent more problems that can arise from heat warping the head.

flman · **Posted:** Fri Jan 03, 2014 6:47 am

SargeIndustries wrote:

bugnout wrote:

Mine was leaking between the front two cylinders. No evidence of HG failure, still looked perfect, but no way to tell if it would leak by just tightening the head bolts.

Mine was leaking between the front two cylinders as well. I wonder which cylinders were leaking on everybody elses?

Mine leaked between 2 and 3.

LMWatBullRun · **Posted:** Fri Jan 03, 2014 1:34 pm

racertracer wrote:

05infernoCRDL wrote:

Today i did the burp.. Run for 30 sec... Burp again and i got a little bit of pressure.. Not a lot bit some

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Sorry to say, but any pressure under the cap is indicative that you need to prepare for a head gasket replacement.

If you perform the work soon while the leak is at its infancy you may prevent more problems that can arise from heat warping the head.

Concur. If you stud it now, you may prevent further warping and eliminate the need for a new head. Whether or not you decide to buy and install a new hg is up to you.

KD6ICZ · **Posted:** Sat Jan 04, 2014 5:01 pm

Does anyone here use NACOOL in their CRD? It supposed to prevent electrolysis. Just wondering. My dad has used it in every diesel he has owned starting with his 1985 Ford 6.9L.

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racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jan 05, 2014 1:16 pm

KD6ICZ wrote:

Does anyone here use NACOOL in their CRD?

The proper way to keep our rigs cool is not to mix the coolant.

Too many headaches happened to members when they began fooling around with the cooling system.

Search posts on head gasket failures within this forum.

Smacker · **Posted:** Fri Jan 10, 2014 12:58 pm

05infernoCRDL wrote:

I have about 135,000 on the clock and I am loosing coolant on the frequent. about 10 oz a week or so, I have no signs of coolant coming out on the outside.

should I take it all the way down and replace the HG or just try to stud it? it is a DD

NO Brainer!! If your in that far replace the head gasket and have your head checked out for cracks and such. I did what your suggesting and have to go back in now to replace head gasket, check head integrity and resolve a crack in the exhaust manifold. Who knows what else I might find.....

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Sun Jan 12, 2014 3:41 am

Has anybody been able to see the thickness holes on the hg without removing anything?

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flman · **Posted:** Sun Jan 12, 2014 8:43 am

racertracer wrote:

KD6ICZ wrote:

Does anyone here use NACOOL in their CRD?

The proper way to keep our rigs cool is not to mix the coolant.

Too many headaches happened to members when they began fooling around with the cooling system.

Search posts on head gasket failures within this forum.

I agree, I am going all stock from now on, including that expensive VM tstat, not really all that expensive whey you are pulling the head.

Leaking Coolant, pull to the HG or just ARP Stud it?

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