Initially I thought that my wife had run out of fuel, but she says that the Jeep was driving quite normally with no warning lights on the dash and although the Jeep was low on fuel (64miles left) the fuel warning light had not yet come on when it just cut out as she was driving so she managed to pull over with no power steering and then it would not restart!

We have since put 12ltrs of diesel in but the fuel gauge shows it is completely empty and the low fuel light is on as well as a constant red light next to the fuel gauge.

The dash is lit up like a Christmas tree when the ignition has been left on for a while the light go out then start to come on again one by one with a chime (see photo link below).

There is fuel at the fuel filter and bleeds out of the nipple.
Some guy try to start it this morning with Brake Cleaner sprayed into the air intake whilst I turned it over which had it running for a while but would not sustain it.

Now the car won’t even turn over the starter motor there is not even a click so it’s not the battery!
I turn the on the ignition which lights up but then Nothing.
I plugged in fault diagnostic computer (cheap one off ebay) and it came up with 22 faults!!!

What’s happened to our beloved Jeep?


https://goo.gl/photos/FfTyTn8FphK4rtDk8

With all the cranking you have been doing I suspect that your battery is very low or dead. Charge it up or have it tested to make the battery is not the problem.
The red dot light on the instrument cluster indicates a problem with the ASD, SKIM, or BCM.
1. Check the ASD fuse and relay. In fact, start by checking all your fuses to rule them out.
2. Try your spare key to see if its a problem with your ignition key programming.
3. Scan for codes to see if any are related to the BCM.
4. Verify the operation of the ignition key switch. They are known to break.

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U.S. Army Retired

Thanks I will check.
Please can you tell me what ASD, SKIM and BCM stand for?

ASD- automatic shut down
SKIM- security key ignition module
BCM- body control module (controls pretty much everything that is not engine, transmission, or ABS brakes)

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

You were right Flash7210 the ASD 15amp fuse had blown, replaced it and now everything back to normal.
Thank you very much if you were in England I would buy you a nice cool pint of Ale.

Thanks again

The 15amp fuse blew again!
What could be causing it to blow all the time, the Relay perhaps?

Shall I put in a 20amp fuse?
How do I test the relay?

I cannot help you with how to test for what's causing the fuse to blow but I am confidant it's blowing for a reason and attempting to hid the problem by inserting a higher amp fuse is just asking for trouble. Two thoughts:
1. go to http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/ and get a copy of the FSMs (get both 05 and 06 - 05 has illustration keys but lacks diesel cooling system info and diagnostics while 06 is the reverse) - perhaps you can figure out from the wiring diagrams what depends on that fuse for power hence where to look for problems.
2. if yours is an 06 model it's not uncommon for wires to chafe inside the harness wrap between the firewall and the fuel filter head. Check that out as appropriate

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Not the relays as I found out how to test those using a 12v battery and a multi-meter.

What year is your CRD? I can have a look through the circuit diagrams for potential problems.

The issue with 2006 CRDs having the wire harness chafing behind the fuel filter head mounting bracket I believe only applies to the LHD CRDs but you could have a wire chafing anywhere intermittantly causing a short and hence the fuse to blow.....not fun trying to find such a fault but I have been there myself!

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

Thanks

Its a 2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8CRD RHD with only 75K on clock.

New Fuel Filter mod and EHM done

I was just thinking that the problem has only just started since I have had my Tow Bar replaced last week under the N97 Recall.
Is it possible the Jeep garage may have done something while they were fitting it i.e. pinched or cut through a cable somewhere?
All the electrics for the tow bar were already in place, as they were from my original Tow bar.

Assuming you have downloaded the Service manual for the 2005 KJ at http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ then look at the wiring diagram page 8W-30-25.
Fuse 16 (15A) is the fuse I assume you are refering to that is blowing.

It feeds the Cabin Heater Relay...you can pull that relay out, the Boost Pressure Solenoid, the EGR Solenoid and the EGR Air Flow Control and then goes to the ECM pins C2 1 and 3.
It also splices out at splice S150 to page 8W-10-20 where it feeds the Vacuum reservoir Solenoid, and the Glow Plug Module.

So it goes to many places but nowhere near the rear end so I doubt the Tow hitch has anything to do with it.

This will be very difficult to track down...it could either be one of the solenoid mentioned that has an intermittant failure or could be the Brown/Pink wire chaffing to ground somewhere.
I personally would try fitting a 20 amp fuse...I may get shot down here but I did qualify in Electrical engineering Light Current and have 34 years computer and Robotic experience behind me and this was common practice to slightly up the fuse value.....the value of 15 amps on the fuse may be marginal and when most of the solenoids kick in at the same time you may draw more than 15 Amps....the 2006 KJ CRD uses a 25 Amp fuse in this circuit!

You need to pull out fuse 16, put your multimeter on the Ohms range, make sure you are not touching the tips of the meter leads with your bare hands and place the one meter lead inside the fuse socket...the side that now has no voltage on it because you have removed the fuse....and the other side of the meter to ground somewhere.

Make a note of the resistance reading....1 Ohm at 12 volts would mean you would draw 12 Amps so anything lower than 1 Ohm reading means you are getting close to your fuse limit although most of these solenoids will not allow your meter to operate truly as the other side of the solenoid is floating due to not having the ignition ON. Now one by one disconnect the various components mentioned on this Brown/pink wire and see if pulling one particular component drastically causes the resistance reading to shoot upwards...that component may have a lower resistance than it should and could be causing the higher current draw.

Pulling apart connector C105 pin 13 will also isolate some components and also pull off C2 and C1 connectors on the ECM.

If you pull out all of the components mentioned the Brown/Pink wire should be floating in mid air and your Ohm meter should show an open circuit ie. a couple of mega-ohms. If not then this wire is chaffing to ground somewhere or is chaffing through to some other random wire in the harness somewhere....this now becomes fun especially if it is intermittant ie. as you you go over a bump in the road.

So check these things out and lets take it from there.

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport