First of all I'm new, so please don't beat me up too bad!

About six months ago I acquired a 2005 crd. I got it from my cousin who had just had a new turbo installed two weeks prior. After having the turbo installed it ran great but after two weeks he lost his power breaks. Being a mechanic the first thing I checked was vacuume and it had none. I have never worked on a VM Motori, but made a poor assumuption that it was a simple vacuume pump change and good to go so I took it off his hands and tore into it.

I quickly found that first of all it was definitely not simple like a cummins or a power stroke, and when I finally got the engine tore down to be able to see the pump I found that the gears for both the vacuume and oil pump were destroyed. I ordered new pumps, and the crank shaft ring gear to drive them. I then realize when I went to put it back together that it had spun the crank bearings.

I ordered a set of undersized bearings and had the crank ground and polished. Went to install the crank... And then found that when the bearings spun it distorted the hole in the front of the block that the crank bearing presses into.

So, I am several thousand dollars into machine work and parts at this point and can not find anyone who cannot will repair the block, and can not find anyone with a good block for sale. So what's next? Part it out and hope to make my money back because I know parts are difficult to find, or does anyone have any suggestions on who, where, what or how to fix the block or where to get a good bare block?

Welcome to the forum.

I'm genuinely curious, because I have heard this term before but have no earthly idea how it happens or how to detect it... How did you know that it spun the bearings?

As far as the rest - you are into the engine a LOT further than most people ever go, myself included. I'm a decent wrench on the top end and the one that most people call on when they need something critical, but even I have no clue how you got this deep into it and how to get yourself out. If the block itself is truly damaged, then you might just be SOL. From what I understand however, this is supposed to be a rebuildable system just like the much larger class 8 engines. Maybe an email to The VM Specialist at vmdieselspecialist.com might be helpful? They are in England, but know these engines intimately.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 125 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Thanks for the response!

In order to get to the vacuume and oil pumps we had to pull the entire front of the engine apart which visibly exposed the front crank shaft bearing face. Knowing that the bearings in the front and rear are press fit, I noticed that it looked like the bearing was sitting oddly in the hole, and there appeared to be heat discoloration on the block around the bearing. I took a pick and was actually able to pull one half of the bearing out with ease, which led me to believe that it had spun. That's what prompted me to pull it apart. The engine is pretty simple on the bottom end, and closely resembles a Perkins diesel such as the type used in older farm equipment.

Anyone with enough knowledge to work on the top end and front end duchess timing belt, water pump, etc. Should have no problem with the bottom end. Especially with a factory service manual.

The only issue is finding parts. I assumed as widely used as these engines are over seas, that a block would be repetitively easy to locate... I no longer make assumptions in regards to this jeep bc it has bit me in the back side, mainly the wallet area, every time!

Yup, VM Specialist might have a good used block to sell you, but getting it shipped from England might be kinda expensive. It doesnt hurt to ask them though.
Check the for sale section here at the bottom of the board index. There is at least one CRD for sale with a broken timing belt for $1500. So it will at least have a good block.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

I no longer make assumptions in regards to this jeep bc it has bit me in the back side, mainly the wallet area, every time![/quote]

Had a friend that owned one, he come to the conclusion that JEEP stood for Just Empty Every Pocket. Lol!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
2005 CRD, Dark khaki, chrome grill guard,tail light guards,Bug shield,Window visors, and lots more goodies on the wishlist.

That IS what JEEP stands for. Has been that way since the 70s, and got worse after they got bought by Mopar. Now it is Mopar Jeep: More Overpriced Parts Are Required, Just Empty Every Pocket.

We have seen wasted oil pump and vacuum pumps on this engine before. Running the stock tune over the life of the engine is a disaster waiting to happen. The soot accumulation in the oil is the worst we have ever seen and that abrasiveness leads to worn rocker arms, worn oil pumps and worn vacuum pumps. Do you have a full part listing of what you need for a rebuild? We might have some stuff lying around our shop.

A note to other interest folks: The cylinder liners on the VM engines have the worst cross-hatch machining we have ever seen on an engine, straight from the factory. This leads to poor seating rings and very high blow-by. It was interesting to test this on one engine we rebuilt in the past that was on a dyno. An engine with less than 10 hours on it was shown a large blow-by. The engine was pulled and disassembled. We ball honed the liners, installed new rings and the blow-by was reduced by a at least 80%.

_________________
Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
(248) 977 - 9531

Keith, is that something that you would suggest for anyone else who might be rebuilding the engine and replacing the liners? What were the performance implications / results of doing that, did it increase the compression and the resulting efficiency or power b/c of the reduced blow by?

I will certainly be the first to admit that these engines don't run that clean in stock form, the amount of crap in the intake on a stock engine is disgusting.
Knowing that can get past the rings and into the oil is bad news though. It might help explain why my first CRD never cleaned up the oil, even after I installed the SEGR device and the EGR should have been blocked. The oil never stayed clean, not even for 10 minutes after an oil change.

I looked for a block a few months ago for a CRD I was considering buying. Essentially, there are few blocks available and only slightly more complete engines in the US. And the prices are outrageous. I was seeing $3k bare blocks and $5k engines with 100k+ miles. There just weren't enough of these motors sold in North America. You can import from Europe, but if you aren't familiar with the process there are a number of pitfalls. I would recommend using a broker, which will add to the cost. It might be worth it though, I was seeing $1500 to $2000 motors in the UK. Add to that several hundred dollars for the broker and shipping, and the right customs paperwork. Some of the recommendations I saw was that you wanted it classified as engine parts rather than a complete motor since the unaltered motor doesn't meet US EPA requirements. (no EGR, for one thing)

I considered doing it, but didn't have the free time and let that CRD go. I've done imports from China for new fencing material and exports to NAFTA partners, but never imports from Europe that might catch the eye of the EPA.

Some things to look at.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2006-JEEP- ... 81&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-jeep-liber ... 93&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-LIBERTY-En ... c8&vxp=mtr

Had a friend that owned one, he come to the conclusion that JEEP stood for Just Empty Every Pocket. Lol!

_________________
2006 KJ CRD AMSOIL Fluids, AMSOIL Oil Filter, AMSOIL ByPass Filter, Secondary Fuel Filter, Provent, Silicone Hoses, Rotomaster Turbo
2013 Audi A3 2.0 TDI Premium Plus
1948 T4 Willis Pickup
1993 C3500 Chevy 6.5 Turbo Diesel
1984 C7500 Chevy Flat Bed 366 gas
1987 R25 Chevy 350 gas

As soon as I get the transmission replaced, I will be getting rid of mine. Everything on this thing is expensive to the point where you have to keep asking yourself if it is worth it. I will drive it for a month or two, sell it and get a pickup of some kind. When the transmission went, my dad said I should have had it towed to a junk yard.

hmm, the transmission is one of the best thing on the rig I thought

_________________
05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

My transmission also went kaput. Basically it is the poopy TC that goes out and rest of tranny is good. Most people with 100 K plus miles on these trannies keep putting the TC repair/replacement off as most are suggested SunCoast or Euro TC for 600 or more dollars if only they could get a complete Ram Hemi tranny or TC converter the whole thing is inexpensive and makes for a great upgrade.

Honestly the only thing I need to finish the rebuild is a good block. I have located and purchased everything else I needed I believe. I'm honestly considering Just parting it out, as difficult as parts are to get I would be willing to bet its worth more in parts than it is complete! And I have literally everything except a good block, including a fresh crank shaft, oil and vacuum pump, gasket set, bolt set, bearings, everything!

Where are you located? There is a decent chance that I will have a good block available shortly, and I have not made a decision yet about whether to attempt the rebuild myself.

I am in north west Indiana. I would be happy to pay freight and make all of the arrangements if infact you decide you would like to sell the block! Feel free to contact me via text 5748702389!