I just had to spend some good hours working on the e brake due to the lever that pushes the shoes being stuck inside the wheel hub. So I am getting ready to leave to work, back up the jeep from the garage and feel the back wheels are dragging. Previous day I pulled the e brake while the jeep was parked outside for a wash. Luckily, the shoes got a bit unstucked and I could use the vehicle. Went to Napa to get a new pair of e brake shoe assembly and went to change them. After replacing them, I noticed that every time I pulled the e brake, the wheels dragged. So I take everything apart again and notice that the lever on which the e brake cable attaches on the back of the wheel hub is stuck. In fact there are 2 levers, interconnected by some sort of hinge, and those 2 parts were actually stuck due corrosion. In the pic, the red area marks the lever the e brake cable attaches to, and the blue is the interconnected lever that pushes the shoes to the inside of the rotor. The pic is taken on the old shoes assembly , which had the actual shoes detached, they just fell out.

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Just want to give you guys a bit of warning, this caused me a lot of inconsistent mileage, between 20-30mpg, this I suspect dependent on how often I used the e brake. I recommend to use white Grease on them every year, especially if living within the snow belt. I'll report back with new mileage, now the wheels spin smoothly when e brake is not on.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I tried to plan ahead on mine and bought shoes and new cables from Rockauto. Get inside and cables were fine. Those levers were so rusted I torched and alternated penetrating oil several times to get apart.

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Now have GDE full torque eco tune and eco transmission tune. Used an 02 liberty trans computer for my new trans tune.

Don't tell me, lol. I used some channel lock pliers to get them unstuck a bit, to be able to remove them from the hub without to pull the axle out from the Diff... And yes, pb blaster worked wonders. Then I wire brushed them on the bench grinder. Took me about 6 hours for about 1 hour-ish job, this with some mandatory union breaks

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I had the same problem with one side. With it seized the cable was pushing more on one brake shoe more than the other. Took some time to free it up and coated it with plenty of copper grease.
Looking at your pic the right hand shoe has no friction material left, or did it fall off when you removed the drum like it did with mine.

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2005 KJ RENAGADE 2.8 CRD 6 SPEED NP242 FULLTIME 4X4

Right on, the shoe fell off when I removed the rotor. It had a bit of binding when I left to work, prior to replacing them, so I would guess that by driving the jeep, the friction part of the shoe ripped off from the metal assembly, luckily, and this is why I was able to drive the jeep without making the wheel too hot. And also, my left side (driver side in us-I know you're over the pond and driver is right for you) was more stuck than the right. I would have expected to be the other way, as in the winter there is a bit more exposure to corrosion to the right side since the right side of the road holds more water-salt mix.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

It was the left side on mine also. So the salt issue could be the cause for me here.

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2005 KJ RENAGADE 2.8 CRD 6 SPEED NP242 FULLTIME 4X4

Replaced those a couple of years ago.
The first time they froze up, I sandblasted the parts and coated the pivot with grease. But that only lasted a year before they froze up again with rust.
I gave up and bought new ones.


They are a dealer item.
Back then the lever and strut were $70.00 a side.

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TWO Identical 2005 Liberty Sport CRDS
#1 CRD, 174,000 miles. Eco tune, Samco hoses. Mobil1 0-40w used since day one
#2 CRD 143,000 miles. Bought used (unknown history) with 100,000 miles. Samco hoses.
Eco tune, new rockers, and 5 volt glow plugs installed at 124,000 miles

Dang, a lot of $$$ for some cheap metal simple parts... I wonder how long they'll last for me. Maybe this should be a periodic maintenance item. Are the new ones at least coated?

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Yes, the new hardware that I bought from the jeep dealer, looked to have a heavy plating on them.

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TWO Identical 2005 Liberty Sport CRDS
#1 CRD, 174,000 miles. Eco tune, Samco hoses. Mobil1 0-40w used since day one
#2 CRD 143,000 miles. Bought used (unknown history) with 100,000 miles. Samco hoses.
Eco tune, new rockers, and 5 volt glow plugs installed at 124,000 miles

Thanks Dan, I might get a set. Appreciate the answer!

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

So, I have had somewhat of the same problem, although I don't think my back brake is dragging HOWEVER, my e-brake light comes on from time to time and cant figure out what might be causing it. Since we are on the e-brake topic, any suggestions?

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2006 CRD
2.5 Frankenlift,ARB front bumper with internal winch.snorkel soon to have rock lizard bumper, sliders and roof rails, 2nd gen filter head
GDE eco tune-need trans upgrade and new TC
Beaverton Oregon

Probably the sensor switch for your e brake is dirty or not functioning properly. I think it's where the e brake lever is, under that plastic cover.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.