Hi, all,

Been awhile, but I wanted to share something that happened recently. Driving on the highway, my oil light came on with the "Ding" warning. Pulled over and shut it down, looked for leaks, checked the level, then reluctantly fired it up again with the fill cap removed. I watched the blowby come out with droplets of oil in it, so I reasoned that it wasn't that oil wasn't circulating, and risked the drive home.

Driving home, I noticed a pattern that made me a little more nervous: the light would go off when the engine RPM's were up, but then light up again at idle. So maybe reduced pressure? I picked up a new pressure sensor and filter on the way home.

Filter change did nothing for it. Sensor change fixed it...or at least as far as I can tell. I need to install a gauge. But hopefully this will help somebody: the sensor is not as binary as you might think.

Best,

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George Reiswig
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
Suncoast, SEGR, lift, InMotion tune, homebrew B100
At 138k, new head & gasket, timing belt, rockers and swearing vocabulary

Yes the sensor IS as binary as you might think. It just gets weak so that the oil pressure fluctuations cause it to turn on and off. Trust me on this: The oil light will be the VERY LAST INDICATOR of a severe engine problem that you will ever get.

When that light comes on with a real problem, the rest of your engine will have already VIOLENTLY destroyed itself. You will not be looking for the light, you will be questioning what is wrong and already attempting to stop the car / engine / get to the side of the road, because of the sounds of rocks in a coffee can being eaten by a blender.

It will not be subtle OR smooth. And the oil light will not be on. Once the engine has finally completely disintegrated, THEN the oil light may come on.

As long as there is at least 1 quart of oil in the pan, there will be enough for the pump to pick up and push against that sensor, keeping the light off. Unfortunately, you need at least 5 quarts to retain use of your engine, plus the one quart each for the pump, filter, and tubing.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Yep senders do die and you are ok to drive a bit so long as there are a) no visible leaks, b) no clouds of black smoke from tailpipe, and c) correct oil level. Flickering oil light would lead me to replace sensor first and filter second.

Been there done that way back when in a 1st gen Plymouth mini-van with, get this, BOTH a gauge and an idiot light interestingly apparently using different sensors. Idiot light came on but gauge read fine in middle of no where on way to DC IIRC. Called nearest DCJ dealer and they said probably sender come on in; fixed it under warranty late on day before holiday.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs