New sleeve or not?

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Jul 19, 2015 1:06 pm

This is the tale of another crappy stealership repair (X3).

Anyhow, this is the famous block that the dealer failed 2 or 3 times at a head gasket repair. In the back exhaust side corner of the block, next to the water port that is really close to the liner, it has been eaten out a good bit by rust (I have another block that looks similar, but it held up fine. common corrosion issue...). This in itself probably wouldn't have caused a failure, but I think the stealership spent a little bit too much time sanding in the corner, and the sleeve is slightly lower just in that area .08mm (.0031"). Then again, that's a pretty good hole right? I think I answered one of my own questions :banghead:

Pull block, new liner (and piston?)?

On the bright side, I was about to put the head on when I decided to measure that spot with my dial indicator. :juggle:

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 19, 2015 5:51 pm

I'd say there's some plausibility in that since that's where the sealing ring makes contact. You could replace just the liner with a new set of rings, or get the piston/liner kit which has matched rings already installed. There was a recent post by Keith, however, that mentioned the honing pattern of the liners from the factory was crap, so honing a new sleeve and setting the ring gap yourself might be a better idea.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Jul 19, 2015 8:24 pm

Mike92104 wrote:

I'd say there's some plausibility in that since that's where the sealing ring makes contact. You could replace just the liner with a new set of rings, or get the piston/liner kit which has matched rings already installed. There was a recent post by Keith, however, that mentioned the honing pattern of the liners from the factory was crap, so honing a new sleeve and setting the ring gap yourself might be a better idea.

Thanks for the advice :JEEPIN:

That post that you mentioned of Keith's has me thinking. Can a person put the piston all the way to the bottom and get a 95% or whatever quality hone on the chamber? The reason I ask, is that I'm soon to do ARP's on my daily driver, and I might as well pull the head and hone from the top side if it's worthwhile/not going to cause damage. Although my daily driver pulls like a champ and has about zero smoke at almost 200k.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

Although it is not ideal. I had to do this for a customer that had a failed head gasket. He did not want to spend the money for a teardown, so we ball honed the #2 cylinder with the piston at BDC. He has put 10,000 miles on it and it is still running. Take that for what it is worth. I would not do it if it were my CRD.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Jul 20, 2015 11:03 am

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:

Although it is not ideal. I had to do this for a customer that had a failed head gasket. He did not want to spend the money for a teardown, so we ball honed the #2 cylinder with the piston at BDC. He has put 10,000 miles on it and it is still running. Take that for what it is worth. I would not do it if it were my CRD.

Thanks Keith! I'll leave the strong pulling beast as is then. This gets me wondering again if anyone has come up with a safe ft/lbs of torque for the connecting rods, versus the factory method :ALONE:

New sleeve or not?

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