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 Post subject: STRIPPED radiator bleed screw
PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 5:17 pm 
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Well good news is I may have found the source of my overheating bad new is I might need a new radiator. When trying bleed the cooling system properly after a water pump change, I pulled the bleed screw completely out. Whatever threads were there are gone . Also a small geyser of green coolant came out, not the HOAT pink stuff that I gave to the mechanic doing the water pump and timing belt!
Funny thing is the overflow/fill reservoir is full of the pink stuff. The bleed screw has been 1/4 turn open the last few months so maybe it never pulled any in since the system wasn't closed?.

IF my radiator is still good and hasn't been ruined from having different coolants mixed (I will take it to a radiator shop) is the bleed screw obtainable? Has anyone here replaced theirs? I will post a picture tonight of the damage

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 Post subject: Re: STRIPPED radiator bleed screw
PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 6:07 pm 
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JoeStretch wrote:
Well good news is I may have found the source of my overheating bad new is I might need a new radiator. When trying bleed the cooling system properly after a water pump change, I pulled the bleed screw completely out. Whatever threads were there are gone . Also a small geyser of green coolant came out, not the HOAT pink stuff that I gave to the mechanic doing the water pump and timing belt!
Funny thing is the overflow/fill reservoir is full of the pink stuff. The bleed screw has been 1/4 turn open the last few months so maybe it never pulled any in since the system wasn't closed?.

IF my radiator is still good and hasn't been ruined from having different coolants mixed (I will take it to a radiator shop) is the bleed screw obtainable? Has anyone here replaced theirs? I will post a picture tonight of the damage


I can't comment on the bleed screw issue as I have never gotten that involved with the radiator assembly, but I can say with confidence that you do not want to drive anywhere with mixed coolant in the system! I would snap pictures to show the dealer in case you want to file a complaint with them then get the thing fully flushed with clean water, then DI water, then the proper ZEREX coolant mixture. I've heard horror stories of what mixing coolants can do in a short amount of time. I'm sure others will chime in on the issue as well.

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 Post subject: Re: STRIPPED radiator bleed screw
PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 6:26 pm 
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Yeah, drain it ASAP after you document it with a third party. It will make this white goop that you can't get out of the system...
You can get that part I'm sure. They are tough to get back in on some. If the radiator side is damaged permanently, then I would epoxy the thing back in and forget about it. I don't think that they are necessary, as I've only opened the bleeder once in about 5 radiator refills on a few different CRDs.

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 Post subject: Re: STRIPPED radiator bleed screw
PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 7:35 pm 
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It was a local mechanic that a friend recommended, not dealer. I guess you get what you pay for .
The water pump was done in November and I did not have overheating problems till 2 months ago as it got hotter. I've read that mixing coolants can be very bad, a gel can form. Would a good flush take care of it? What product would dissolve any gel and deposits? I'm really disappointed to see the green stuff in it, especially when I provided the right HOAT coolant along with the parts.

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 Post subject: Re: STRIPPED radiator bleed screw
PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 7:52 pm 
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Yeah, that guy could ultimately cost you thousands if the head gasket goes. I would be asking for the money back, plus the cost of a professional cooling system deep clean. I the radiator shop might have something safe to clean it out. Then again, make sure they are using Turbo diesel friendly chemicals also... Might be a good job for a stealership if they have a good price. At least they will be able to get the right cleaner, I'm guessing

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 Post subject: Re: STRIPPED radiator bleed screw
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 12:25 am 
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I have spare radiator with a hole not repairable. The side tanks are ingood shape if you want them. Call a radiator shop ask them if they can swap the end caps and service your current radiator

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 Post subject: Re: STRIPPED radiator bleed screw
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 8:35 am 
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Mountainman wrote:
Yeah, drain it ASAP after you document it with a third party. It will make this white goop that you can't get out of the system...


I believe you're confusing it with OAT which shouldn't be mixed with anything else. Hybrid-OAT (HOAT) is a slightly different beast and should not react with the conventional green ethylene glycol. Having said that I wouldn't mix them. A flush and fill with 100% HOAT is in order.

The cooling system is supposed to be able to purge itself of air but if it hasn't been properly sealed because the bleed valve has been partially open you may have air in the system resulting in overheating. Hopefully the overheating hasn't caused secondary damage.

As far as the broken bleed valve is concerned I don't recall it having threads. IIRC it looks something like this http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemdetai ... Name=61134 and in fact RockAuto sell this part as the drain petcock for our CRD which it clearly isn't.

...but if the valve or the housing is indeed broken you could simply pull it out and I'm suspecting that with a couple of plastic fittings and some epoxy you could mount a small ball valve in its place.

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Last edited by dirtmover on Wed Jul 22, 2015 8:58 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: STRIPPED radiator bleed screw
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 8:54 am 
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Quote:
A flush and fill with 100% OAT is in order.


What? Why do you say that?
HOAT is what is specified for the CRD engine.
Zerex G-05, gold plastic bottle, available from Napa, PepBoys, or Amazon for about $19 a gallon.

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 Post subject: Re: STRIPPED radiator bleed screw
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 8:57 am 
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flash7210 wrote:
Quote:
A flush and fill with 100% OAT is in order.


What? Why do you say that?
HOAT is what is specified for the CRD engine.
Zerex G-05, gold plastic bottle, available from Napa, PepBoys, or Amazon for about $19 a gallon.


Oops, good catch. Fixed it :oops: .

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 Post subject: Re: STRIPPED radiator bleed screw
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 10:45 am 
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Thanks Deeprecon1 I,ll let you know , and thanks Dirtmover the part looks like a perfect match, looking on my damaged piece I can make out the part # 4464269 which matches the OE numbers on the doorman part. Found the part on amazon and have ordered it. the radiator side threads look undamaged so if the new bleed screw locks down I'm good to go, (if the radiator isn't plugged up). I am hoping the overheating was just air in the system not bled out correctly. Fingers crossed. If I am buying a new radiator who has the best price?

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 Post subject: Re: STRIPPED radiator bleed screw
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 11:11 am 
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dirtmover wrote:
Mountainman wrote:
Yeah, drain it ASAP after you document it with a third party. It will make this white goop that you can't get out of the system...


I believe you're confusing it with OAT which shouldn't be mixed with anything else. Hybrid-OAT (HOAT) is a slightly different beast and should not react with the conventional green ethylene glycol. Having said that I wouldn't mix them. A flush and fill with 100% HOAT is in order.

Thanks Dirt, I just had one with white goo and guessed it was Hoat and green, but sounds like they might have put OAT. Hmm, can't the wrong chemistry also kill the water pump and then rockers, maybe drop a valve? That would be my biggest fear

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 Post subject: Re: STRIPPED radiator bleed screw
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 11:26 am 
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The Dorman link shows the vent plug (you may have to scroll to the right to see it) that's on the top left as you face the radiator. It's designed to be removed by turning it to 4 o'clock and pulling up. I typically recommend removing it when draining the system AFTER coolant has been drained from the tank on the firewall as doing so speeds up draining the system then leave it off while refilling until fluid starts to come out the vent hole to minimize air in the system.

There was a forum post some time ago, with pics, of a completely clogged with white powdery "stuff" radiator likely for mixing coolants but I do not recall the details of that post.

To cut to the chase yes you need to get rid of all the incorrect coolant and refill with the proper HOAT coolant. Be careful what you get as Zerex G-05 comes straight or as a 50/50 mix and the latter costs significantly more per usable unit; better to buy the straight stuff and some cheap demineralized water from the local grocery to mix your own. Getting rid of the incorrect coolant can be a pain as the radiator drain plus is above the lowest point in the system so a simple drain and refill won't get rid of the bad stuff. You have to do multiple drains and refills with clean water, stoutdog did like 6 before what came out was only very slightly colored, or you might could try the Prestone flush and fill kit http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF-KIT-F ... B000CCFY5W . I've used it on several vehicle but not the CRD.

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 Post subject: Re: STRIPPED radiator bleed screw
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 12:44 pm 
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I'd be asking some other questions. This valve is a common design to many vehicles so the mechanic should have worked with one of these on numerous occasions so how was he able to break yours? Why did he use the wrong coolant when you had supplied the correct stuff? And of even more concern, did he even bother to change your timing belt and WP - did he give you old parts?

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 Post subject: Re: STRIPPED radiator bleed screw
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 1:49 pm 
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MountainMan, assuming that your profile pic us your crd's engine compartment, what cooling fan are you running? Is it the FFD? How do you like it?

O'REILLY Had the Doorman "drain" plug in stock I'm going to go get it at lunch.
Do any of you have experience with using Prestones flush and fill kit on your CRD?
Short of having the radiator inpected and the flow checked , I'm hesitant to take my jeep anywhere but if a local shop can do the work and document the radiator condition , it might be worth having a shop do it.

Trust me I am really starting to wonder if the timing components and water pump were replaced , he did admit that it was one of the harder timing belts that he had done and had the Jeep way too long (over 3 weeks) but it was around the holidays. Still, I wish I had just done it myself.

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 Post subject: Re: STRIPPED radiator bleed screw
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 2:43 pm 
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See Squeeto's system flush post at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=56486&hilit=citric

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 Post subject: Re: STRIPPED radiator bleed screw
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 3:58 pm 
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Well the plug fits right in and pulls down and seals when turned. So if my system was open the last few months and had air that was not purged, I'm sure that could cause overheating.

There are small white crystals on the end of the old bleed screw, which at this point I am sure that my radiator is full of. I called 2 local radiator shops and they both run over a $120 for the radiator to be rodded and boiled out. Both say that the plastic sides get really brittle after 10 years and cannot warranty the radiator after the procedure. They actually remove the sides and re-crimp them back on for the boil out/inspection.

Seeing that the original bleed plug already suffered a thread failure , I am considering flushing the old system and radiator but installing a new radiator and thermostat and seeing if the mechanic that I trusted on the water pump will cover it . ( probably not) I found a new radiator online for $286. Shipped , my old one might get dropped off at the radiator shop so I can have a spare on hand.

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 Post subject: Re: STRIPPED radiator bleed screw
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 11:28 pm 
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I just got mine via ups yesterday. I paid 298 shipped. However at his price dont expect fast shipping, I had to wait a little over a week.

I found several parts suppliers are all very near the 300.00 mark. Rock auto was 270 plus ship.






JoeStretch wrote:
Well the plug fits right in and pulls down and seals when turned. So if my system was open the last few months and had air that was not purged, I'm sure that could cause overheating.

There are small white crystals on the end of the old bleed screw, which at this point I am sure that my radiator is full of. I called 2 local radiator shops and they both run over a $120 for the radiator to be rodded and boiled out. Both say that the plastic sides get really brittle after 10 years and cannot warranty the radiator after the procedure. They actually remove the sides and re-crimp them back on for the boil out/inspection.

Seeing that the original bleed plug already suffered a thread failure , I am considering flushing the old system and radiator but installing a new radiator and thermostat and seeing if the mechanic that I trusted on the water pump will cover it . ( probably not) I found a new radiator online for $286. Shipped , my old one might get dropped off at the radiator shop so I can have a spare on hand.

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 Post subject: Re: STRIPPED radiator bleed screw
PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 5:36 pm 
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JoeStretch wrote:
MountainMan, assuming that your profile pic us your crd's engine compartment, what cooling fan are you running? Is it the FFD? How do you like it?.


That is a FFD. It's good for most any driving, but I'm still testing it for heavy towing. If you don't like in the Rockies, or somewhere equally as mountainous, then you would be smart to go electric. Quieter vehicle and a little MPG gain. It will also save your radiator because that bearing will last 10x without that heavy fan on it, and they explode violently.

If you just drive like most people do, and do light towing, you can get away with no fan, or a junkyard V6 fan for cheap.

On your current one. I'd clean and test it before I worry about replacing it :2cents:

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 Post subject: Re: STRIPPED radiator bleed screw
PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 12:45 pm 
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Well after 6 flushes I have all of the green coolant out and the system very clean, i used Squeeto's procedure referenced in the link above . The, 2cm of an allen wrench with my ratcheting 10mm box end wrench for the drain plug made it much easier. The 1st time I drained it after the flush solution was added , there was a good 1/8th inches of silt and grit in the bottom of the bucket.

After the last flush, I inserted my inspection cam into the radiator bleed hole and looked at the fins all the way down and they looked very clean and clear of sludge or deposits. I ran the Jeep hard on the interstate for a half hour AC on,trying to get the needle up past the halfway mark and it would not budge.

I ran it at 75 mph accelerating hard ten times or so, and maintaining an average of 2100 rpms. This was all just with the final clear flush of tap water. Tonight I am going to do the final drain and replace with the corect HOAT Coolant and take it to the big hill that I previously had problems on. Fingers crossed!

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