Provent

lacabrera · **Posted:** Sun Jul 26, 2015 3:40 pm

Provent?? After reading a much about adding a Provent to the crank case breather system on theses I have come to the conclusion they are basically a waste of money. I have had mine fitted now for over 6 months and I can say that it has not collected any oil from the crankcase breather. Maybe if you overfill the oil level, oil can escape from the cvv or if the engine is worn(more blow by). If your getting oil into the turbo hoses'/intercooler check your turbo?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 26, 2015 5:33 pm

Lucky you I guess.
That is if no oil has been escaping the CCV and coating the inside of your CAC hoses and intercooler.
But even if oil is escaping the CCV, a Provent is not a necessity. Deleting the EGR valve is a necessity.

I made my own Provent like thingy and it trapped oil from the CCV. But I couldn't seal it up well enough to prevent it from leaking. So I don't use it anymore.

I find that more oil comes out of the CCV in the hot summer months than the cold winter months. The oil that comes out of there is more like a vapor. If it's cool enough for the oil vapor to condense inside the CCV then the oil will just drip back down into the engine.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sun Jul 26, 2015 6:26 pm

CCV is part of the emissions controls

emissions requirements are different Colonies vs Crown

you could easily have a less aggressive vent system

my Provent easily collects about an Oz of liquid per 1000 miles (some water, some oil)

I'd only use it it it's doing something, no point if it stays dry.

95Z28A4 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:53 am **Posts:** 297

ATXKJ wrote:

My Provent easily collects about an Oz of liquid per 1000 miles (some water, some oil)

I'd only use it it it's doing something, no point if it stays dry.

Same here. I change my oil every 6k and check the Provent drain hose every 3k. I drain 3-4 ounces of oil every time I check it. I have a small ball valve at the end of the hose making it easy to drain.

I used this valve, but I cut off the male threads. I have a brass 3/8" NPT male x 1/2" hose barb clamped in the reinforced transparent hose.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NJE ... ge_o07_s00

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jul 26, 2015 9:57 pm

I drain about 2 oz. of oil water mix about once a month... :wink:

I certainly do not think it is a waste of money keeping oil out of the turbo and boost system...
It is certainly a good product that should have been installed on the Jeep CRD from the factory... :roll:

Lucky you if you do not get anything out of yours... :roll:

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:50 am

mine is full every oil change. some oil some water that has condensed out of the vapor. had mine since 45,000 miles. I'd say it keeps a good amount of the oil out of the intake but not fully 100% of it. My boost hoses still have a slight coating inside but are no longer soaked with oil like when I first got the Jeep.

lacabrera · **Posted:** Tue Jul 28, 2015 2:22 pm

ATXKJ wrote:

CCV is part of the emissions controls

emissions requirements are different Colonies vs Crown

you could easily have a less aggressive vent system

my Provent easily collects about an Oz of liquid per 1000 miles (some water, some oil)

I'd only use it it it's doing something, no point if it stays dry.

I don't know of any differences on the CCV system between USA version and export. Maybe I was expecting to see a fair amount of oil? The filter element in the bottle gets wet but that's about it. Cant see the reason in stopping that small amount of oil getting in, and helping lubricating the valve stems? But only if you have deleted the EGR.

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Jul 28, 2015 2:33 pm

I always put oil about 1/4 inch under max on dipstick and till oil reaches my 1/2 dipstick mark, I drop oil through provent. Those dipsticks are known to be inaccurate. So I guess my engine likes the 1/2 mark on the dipstick.

NVCRD · **Posted:** Sat Aug 01, 2015 12:41 pm

I just put one on yesterday. I'm excited to see how it does. I will post future results.

jlg89 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 13, 2015 12:45 pm

Those of you who have a Provent installed...how about posting some pics of how it's mounted?

pjigar · **Posted:** Sat Aug 15, 2015 3:19 pm

Disclaimer: I don't know if drilling a hole in the crank case is good idea or not so don't blame me! Having said that, turbo oil drain is almost at the same height as the hole I drilled so I think it should be OK.

I followed directions from http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/provent/ and installed provent. I made couple of changes.
1. I fabricated two piece mounting bracket from the scrap metal I had on hand. I decided to use ECU bolts and one bolt from the original guide.
2. I decided to drill one of the free boss from old EGR cooler and tap it to 1/8" NPT. You can use 11/32" (better) or R size (best) drill bit to drill the hole for 1/8" NPT tap. I routed the oil drain from provent back into crank case using 1/8" NPT hole. Pictures does not show but I used 45 degree adapter (1/8" NPT to 3/8" barb) on the crank case.

By the way, the EGR cooler boss shown almost touches the end of the piston! I did not want to drill through/close to the piston so I did some measurements before I drilled the boss. I measured 150 mm from top of the block to the boss. FSM shows that stock length is 100 mm. FSM does not show the height of the piston so I figured the piston can't be longer than 50 mm. I was right on the money! You can acutely "feel" the edge of the piston if you wiggle ear swab in the drilled hole.

Slideshow at: http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jigar_patel2/slideshow/Provent
Note: Picture titles have instructions.

If you don't have a free boss on the intake side of the engine then there are couple of free bosses on the exhaust side also. If you use exhaust side boss then you may have to find a longer route for the oil drain pipe and/or relocate provent next to the coolant reservoir. It will be too hot near exhaust side so I decided to use the intake side.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Aug 15, 2015 4:17 pm

I do not know for sure and it depends. The purpose of the CCV, old days called a PCV, is to vent excess pressure and oil (from blowby) from the crankcase back into the intake stream. Prior to introduction of the PCV that stuff was simply vented to atmosphere (lots of polllution in the air and oil dripped on the road); essentially the EHM. A properly installed Provent is simply a vented (pressure can escape) that filters out the oil so it can be drained.

If you are plumbing back to the crankcase you need to be sure that the vented pressure can escape before getting back to the crankcase otherwise you are likely to blow a rear main seal which is what happens if the EHM hose freezes shut in winter.

lacabrera · **Posted:** Sun Aug 16, 2015 12:14 pm

pjigar wrote:

Disclaimer: I don't know if drilling a hole in the crank case is good idea or not so don't blame me! Having said that, turbo oil drain is almost at the same height as the hole I drilled so I think it should be OK.

I followed directions from http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/provent/ and installed provent. I made couple of changes.
1. I fabricated two piece mounting bracket from the scrap metal I had on hand. I decided to use ECU bolts and one bolt from the original guide.
2. I decided to drill one of the free boss from old EGR cooler and tap it to 1/8" NPT. You can use 11/32" (better) or R size (best) drill bit to drill the hole for 1/8" NPT tap. I routed the oil drain from provent back into crank case using 1/8" NPT hole. Pictures does not show but I used 45 degree adapter (1/8" NPT to 3/8" barb) on the crank case.

By the way, the EGR cooler boss shown almost touches the end of the piston! I did not want to drill through/close to the piston so I did some measurements before I drilled the boss. I measured 150 mm from top of the block to the boss. FSM shows that stock length is 100 mm. FSM does not show the height of the piston so I figured the piston can't be longer than 50 mm. I was right on the money! You can acutely "feel" the edge of the piston if you wiggle ear swab in the drilled hole.

Did you install the check valve on the oil return pipe? if you plumb it below the sump oil level you do not need the valve but above oil level you do?

pulled this from installation instructions
Oil return
The respective port of the oil return (see diagram on page 15) is connected to the oil sump via a drainage pipe. There are two principal connection possibilities:
1. Below the oil level
The oil return is connected via a drainage pipe below the minimum permissible oil level of the engine oil sump. According to the principle of connected pipes, the same oil level is present in the oil sump and the drainage pipe. This oil receiver acts like a siphon so that when the oil is sucked from the outlet port the blow-by is directed via the oil separator. The negative pressure in the oil return pipe during operation is the same as the negative pressure at the oil separator. As opposed to conventional solutions, this intake negative pressure is reduced due to design considerations so
that the height of the oil column in the drainage pipe during operation is accordingly low. As a result the drainage pipe need only take into account a respectively low oil column and this enables numerous installation possibilities.
2. Above the oil level
This connection variation requires fitting of a check valve which is available as an option. The valve is fitted in the drainage pipe as close to the engine as possible. Separated oil collects above the check valve during operation. The check valve is
closed during operation by the negative suction pressure present in the housing of the ProVent. When the weight of the oil column is above the closing pressure of the valve, for example when the engine has been switched off, the separated oil flows back to the oil sump

Slideshow at: http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jigar_patel2/slideshow/Provent
Note: Picture titles have instructions.
.

Did you install the check valve on the oil return pipe? if you plumb it below the sump oil level you do not need the valve but above oil level you do?

pulled this from installation instructions
Oil return
The respective port of the oil return (see diagram on page 15) is connected to the oil sump via a drainage pipe. There are two principal connection possibilities:
1. Below the oil level
The oil return is connected via a drainage pipe below the minimum permissible oil level of the engine oil sump. According to the principle of connected pipes, the same oil level is present in the oil sump and the drainage pipe. This oil receiver acts like a siphon so that when the oil is sucked from the outlet port the blow-by is directed via the oil separator. The negative pressure in the oil return pipe during operation is the same as the negative pressure at the oil separator. As opposed to conventional solutions, this intake negative pressure is reduced due to design considerations so
that the height of the oil column in the drainage pipe during operation is accordingly low. As a result the drainage pipe need only take into account a respectively low oil column and this enables numerous installation possibilities.
2. Above the oil level
This connection variation requires fitting of a check valve which is available as an option. The valve is fitted in the drainage pipe as close to the engine as possible. Separated oil collects above the check valve during operation. The check valve is
closed during operation by the negative suction pressure present in the housing of the ProVent. When the weight of the oil column is above the closing pressure of the valve, for example when the engine has been switched off, the separated oil flows back to the oil sump

pjigar · **Posted:** Sun Aug 16, 2015 6:21 pm

lacabrera wrote:

Did you install the check valve on the oil return pipe? if you plumb it below the sump oil level you do not need the valve but above oil level you do?

I do not have check valve installed yet. For now I have plugged the crankcase hole and hooked a plastic bottle (with some holes at the top) on the oil return line. Thanks for the heads up.

Yeti · **Posted:** Tue Aug 18, 2015 4:30 am

do not venting the oil vapor , read this

http://oilcatchcan.com/

I do not have the provent but here in Italy all KJ soak with black oil vapor the entry CAC sistem , when the hot vapor meet the cold ar coming after the filter the vapor condense in a oli mix with humidity and stop , they do not serve to lubricate anything ......BTW if you remove the EGR fume , they can help to dissolve the pre-existent coat mix , cleaning your intake ,

if you do the EHM mode , your fuel burn is more clean and do not have unmetered vapor , btw your cranck case can be dry of oil where needed , the pcv system is the same in the kj , here , in USA , in Europe , Asia etcc

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