So I did a little work and didn't disconnect my battery and Dodge tells me I've cooked my computer and I'm currently searching for a new one! Does anyone know of any reliable retailers that would carry that for less than $1200 (Canadian) or perhaps maybe an ebay retailer? I had a look but I'm having trouble finding anything for the 2.8 diesel/auto

I just went through this, only way i could get it done was to find a ECM in a junkyard out of the same model year as my Jeep. No dealer would help or give any advice on it, so i sent the ECM to GDE to have the VIN changed. No issues, and it was relatively cheap.

_________________
Jimmy
2005 Liberty CRD, 120k miles, tuned, cat delete, Mishimoto hoses, EGR/FCV delete with Euro intake

1997 F-250 ECLB 7.3/E4OD/4wd, 215k miles: FFD 250/200%'s, Swamps IDM, built trans. Tuned by me

2001 F-450 crew cab, XLT ZF-6 7.3: 6637, shimmed 910's, in-tank mods, PHP tunes

Email Keith at Green Diesel Engineering and maybe PM or email SirSam thru LOST as to which ECMs work (model year and gasser vs diesel). The easiest would be a junkyard one from the same year CRD which Keith can reprogram just the VIN and your are home free. Other ones may require a bit more reprogramming.

Would be good if you could provide more details of exactly what you were doing and what happened. One obvious question comes to mind is how did a Dodge dealer determine your ECM is fried?

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Yep what work did you do that may have fried the ECM?

These ECMs are pretty robust...typical Dealer response when they do not know what the problem is...replace the ECM!

What problems are you actually having with your Jeep at the moment?

Any codes?

_________________
2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

If you can find an ECM, SKIM, and key as a matched set for your year model CRD at the right price, you can be up and running, although the fiddle with the keys may annoy you.
John

I've learned quite a bit since first posting, so I'll add what I know.

Why I think it's the ECM: When I was wiring my brake controller I jumped the power line to the body of my engine computer, suddenly the jeep won't start. It turns over for about 1 second and then the throttle by wire light flashes and nothing I've tried as far as disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it has worked. I told the dealer this, they tested the error codes that were coming up, namely my barometric air pressure sensor was reading low, and that I had the wrong key for the vehicle, though the red light on the dash that indicates this did not come one, leading me to think the ECU is toast originally.

I looked online and found a collection of model numbers, and then confirmed with the dealership that I have a 56044562CB but the closest I can find at a wrecker is a 56044562BA and a 56044562AC which isn't recommended to go backwards that far in part revisions, so I'm not sure if it would work or not.

The dealership has offered to program any ECU I can get my hands on, these guys have been really great for my past maintenance and advice and are happy to work with any parts I give them so I don't really have a reason to not trust them.

Oh, as an added bonus I've done a stage 1 EGR removal and have already reprogrammed my ECU myself (ran great until I shorted the unit) and I happened to make a backup file of my ECM's programming, would that be something I could flash to an new one myself and not worry about the VIN programming thing?

I'll sort of try again, contact Keith and/or Sir Sam. With respect to your comments 1) how on earth not to mention why did you jump the powerline to the body of the ECU, see comment below; and 2) 56044562CB is NOT an ECU model PN # rather it's a program which has nothing much to do with whether or not that ECU can physically be used, # see viewtopic.php?t=47169 . So

1. if you managed to jump from the battery + terminal to the metal outside housing of the ECU (box on interior fender wall just behind battery) I'm not totally convinced that would fry an ECU as the internal electric components "should" be well insulated from the housing although I suppose it's possible that it's programming got scrambled. You mention error codes so what are/were they? For example a P0129 barometric out of range low suggest maybe a bad or dirty MAP sensor. As to the key issue IIRC that may be a body control module issue but have you used a continuity meter to individually test all (in cab and in engine bay) fuses?
2. per my original post if you need a new ECU then you need find out what PN ECU(s) can be programmed to operate your CRD (05 or 06? manual or automatic transmission?). Any used functional ECU that can be programmed will work although one out of the same model year/transmission is simplest as IIRC all that needs programming is VIN

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

sorry I missed your first post, to answer your questions I was working on installing a breaker for my trailer brake, red wire runs off the positive end of my terminal and in tightening the bolt down my wrench touched the outside of the ECM creating a small shock. Immediately after doing this, my engine no longer started. I didn't save a fault log for my engine codes unfortunately, since I was led to believe that my ECM was the source of the issue, not the sensors themselves. The dealer also tested the sensors and has decided that they're fine and that the ECM is infact the source of the problem, be it a dead unit, or scrambled programming I'm not sure, however they seem to be convinced it's a dead unit.

I'll contact GDE and see what they can tell me about swapping parts, if I can update one of the old ECM's from a wrecker I'd be happy to go that route as it's a lot cheaper for me.

My jeep is a 2.8 diesel/automatic/power locking and windows with no fancy features aside from A/C, pretty sure I've got the base model.

I tested each fuse with a multi meter, both in cab and in engine bay in the box in front of the battery and I couldn't find any that weren't in perfect working order sadly, reinforcing the though that my ECM took the brunt of that shock. I did think however that the metal casing most likely took most of that shock back through to the grounding on the vehicle, however I'm also a computer tech and I know how sensitive boards can be to static shock.

The error codes I got were P0105 and P0107, there was also a code related to having the wrong key but I don't have the number written down.

Has the battery been tested?
This sounds like something a bad battery might cause.

A new ECU is an expensive part. You will want to be absolutely sure that its the problem.



Those are MAP sensor codes.
Indicating that your MAP sensor is either bad or unplugged or a problem with the wiring to the MAP sensor.

And for the security key problem, do you have a spare key you can try?

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

This problem was sudden and happened instantly, not something that gradually showed up like a battery slowly dying, however to my knowledge that battery hasn't been tested and was never a concern. How does a bad battery cause something like this? When I mean the engine turns over for 1 second I mean that it doesn't slowly turn over like the starter isn't getting enough power, ut turns over like it's going to start, and it's very obvious that the computer is preventing actual startup.



I did try my spare key, had the same problem unfortunately. According to the tech working on my jeep the MAP sensor is fine though...


On a plus note, I've heard back from GDE and figured out what I need to be looking for as far as a new ECU goes, the one from the wrecker should work so I'll be ordering that as soon as I make sure that it's going to work since he only wants about $130 for the thing. Unfortunately the jeep is still at the dealership and I work out of town during the week (the reason I take the jeep into a shop) and trying anything myself is doing to be slightly difficult.

Did you describe what happened to Keith at GDE and ask his opinion regarding the "health" of your current ECU? I have no clue as I'm not a modern vehicle electronics person but Keith sure knows the ECUs and probably more.

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I talked to Matt from GDE, described exactly what happened, and he agreed it could fry and ECU, as does everyone else I talk to unfortunately. I did just order an ECU, the first place I called apparently doesn't have it anymore, or maybe never had the exact one I'm looking for, however a wrecker in BC just bought a libby and I bought the ECU off him for $300 so I'm perfectly happy with that solution.

worst case scenario, I get a second ECM that I can send to GDE and get some tuning work done once the canadian dollar is better and it doesn't cost me $800 to get a flash

Ouch I was not aware the exchange rate was that bad for you. Last time I paid attention it was about par.

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

The Canadian economy is really bad right now, means it's an awesome time to come up north since everything is about 30% cheaper for you guys. We've got trails! Anyway, that's a topic for another post, I consider this topic currently complete, thanks everyone for the input! I'll update once I get the ECM into the vehicle.

Make sure your battery is charged fully. Low batteries can cause some issues with the ECU not starting, but still allow the engine to crank nicely.

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Since when was P0105 a MAP sensor code? P0107 is the MAP sensor. All the research I have done indicate P0105 is the Air Inlet Pressure circuit .
John

P0105 is a MAP sensor code



If the tech tested the sensor and says its good, then its possible those are old codes from a time when the sensor was unplugged or the wiring harness to the MAP has a intermittent open circuit problem.

I hope the replacement ECM fixes all you problems.
But if not, I'd be looking at replacing the SKIM and having your keys reprogrammed.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

Actually I know this one! Since I did the EGR delete and reprogrammed my ecu, I've been monitoring engine codes very closely, and I know for sure that these codes came up at the same time. I'm hoping to be driving tomorrow, but we all know how plans like that go...

flash7210.
Where did you get the information that P0105 was a MAP sensor code ?
John

New update today: Computer's in, jeep's running and my signal lights are dead.... so there's that to fix now.




while I can't speak for Flash, I get my code information from http://www.dtcsearch.com/

it gives:

P0105 - Chrysler
Type Powertrain - Fuel and Air Metering - ISO/SAE Controlled
Description
Barometric Pressure Sensor Circuit Conditions
Cause
Key on for less than 60 seconds or right after startup, system voltage over 8v, then the test started and the PCM detected a BARO sensor input of 4.5v or more or an input of 0 2v or less for 4 seconds (it should be 3.2-3.8v)