What are these mods?

bigE.94 · **Joined:** Wed Jul 01, 2015 2:00 am **Posts:** 48

Ok, so I bought a CRD off Copart from Colorado. It is a grey, sport 4x4 with the part time/ full time transfer case and it has 100k and some change. First things first. I can tell that the previous owner could possibly have been on this forum due to the types of mods done to it.

[/url]

It is lifted with spacers,

it does have some sort of rear axle rock guard.

it has a CB antennae hard mounted to the right rear passenger side quarter panel that's about 3ft tall.

and it also has some weird engine bay mods that I might need help identifying.
I believe the previous owner did some sort of home made provent type of thing.

It had a metal brush wire/net inside as a filter and it was practically filled to the brim, and for some reason it had a hose going from this "filter" to a plastic "Home Depot Plumbing" fitting going to the bottom of the air box and filter and as a result the filter was soaked in oil and the entire bottom was coated in excess oil.

So as a result of this the air intake hose that leads to the turbo was heavily coated in oil. Also the hose that leads from the intercooler to the turbo was slightly coated with oil as well.

also the intake hose going to the turbo had some sort of metal pipe end plug blocking off a pathway that's right next to the turbo inlet.

There's this weird metal "quick disconnect" on the hose going to the thermostat. Its just right smack in the middle of it. What's it for? IDK..

So my questions are: Is my turbo toast from potentially getting oil inside of it? Why are all these things done to it? Because I'd like to know how to future maintenance it in the future. If they put the "provent" there, why did they route it to go to the airbox?

If anybody is willing to help point out what these engine bay mods are, that would be much appreciated..

Also if anybody recognizes this jeep from anywhere then just comment or something.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 09, 2015 8:02 pm

All CRDs have this issue where oil comes out of the crank case vent (CCV) and goes into the turbo inlet hose. This leaves oil to coat the inside of the turbo hoses and intercooler. Its not really a huge problem. But that oil combined with soot from the EGR valve can lead to clogging of the intake manifold.
Deleting the EGR valve is the best tbing to do.

That home made Provent like thingy looks like it was doing its job, but was never cleaned and got saturated with oil. That lead to the coating of oil in the air box.
I have no idea why the previous owner routed the hose from the provent thingy that way. It should have been attached to the turbo inlet hose.

I have no idea about the thermostat hose thingy.
You would have to post a picture of it.
My guess is that its some sort of in-line thermostat mod.

MM53 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 09, 2015 9:01 pm

Look at Sam's CRD Noob Guide at the top of the page lots of good stuff I read it many times when I first got my CRD

bigE.94 · **Joined:** Wed Jul 01, 2015 2:00 am **Posts:** 48

flash7210 wrote:

All CRDs have this issue where oil comes out of the crank case vent (CCV) and goes into the turbo inlet hose. This leaves oil to coat the inside of the turbo hoses and intercooler. Its not really a huge problem. But that oil combined with soot from the EGR valve can lead to clogging of the intake manifold.
Deleting the EGR valve is the best tbing to do.

That home made Provent like thingy looks like it was doing its job, but was never cleaned and got saturated with oil. That lead to the coating of oil in the air box.
I have no idea why the previous owner routed the hose from the provent thingy that way. It should have been attached to the turbo inlet hose.

I have no idea about the thermostat hose thingy.
You would have to post a picture of it.
My guess is that its some sort of in-line thermostat mod.

Here it is.. it has groves in it like for a large crescent wrench to grab onto it.

bigE.94 · **Joined:** Wed Jul 01, 2015 2:00 am **Posts:** 48

MM53 wrote:

Look at Sam's CRD Noob Guide at the top of the page lots of good stuff I read it many times when I first got my CRD

I've read it a few times and that's how I figured it was a home made provent filter type of deal.

cerich · **Posted:** Mon Aug 10, 2015 4:38 am

In line thermostat.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Aug 10, 2015 9:09 am

The thing in the coolant line is a Meziere WN0072 Inline Thermostat Housing (http://www.amazon.com/Meziere-WN0072-In ... 131&sr=1-2). Sometimes used when the OEM thermostat fails open in which case the engine never reaches operating temp.

I'd suggest you pm or email Sir Sam who is also in CO, Ft. Collins I think.

Most important thing is getting your timing belt replaced unless you have documented proof that it has been replaced and when.

bigE.94 · **Joined:** Wed Jul 01, 2015 2:00 am **Posts:** 48

http://vid296.photobucket.com/albums/mm ... 8psp2z.mp4

This is a vid I took after I took it for a small test drive around the neighborhood. It hasn't been doing it since, but earlier it would idle rough like this. Any thoughts on what it might be?

deeprecon1 · **Posted:** Fri Aug 14, 2015 11:05 am

Have you pulled the codes? CEL ?

Take a couple steps back ... I know your excited to go thru and figure out all the mods and problems. If you have done all minor stuff listed in SAMS noob guide then drive on :-)r

If not how about all the basics ..

Fluids .. complete flush fill filter. Then start checking the EGR system ... clean or bypass. Tune it out or remove the entire system. I just went thru mine in July from bumper to bumper.

bigE.94 wrote:

http://vid296.photobucket.com/albums/mm197/egrishchuk/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-06/3EB07E62-8DDE-44BF-99E0-4346ECD1CA24_zpsoj8psp2z.mp4

This is a vid I took after I took it for a small test drive around the neighborhood. It hasn't been doing it since, but earlier it would idle rough like this. Any thoughts on what it might be?

pjigar · **Posted:** Fri Aug 14, 2015 11:38 am

bigE.94 wrote:

http://vid296.photobucket.com/albums/mm197/egrishchuk/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-06/3EB07E62-8DDE-44BF-99E0-4346ECD1CA24_zpsoj8psp2z.mp4

This is a vid I took after I took it for a small test drive around the neighborhood. It hasn't been doing it since, but earlier it would idle rough like this. Any thoughts on what it might be?

Do you have any codes? Looks like fuel issue. May be air in the fuel. Do you have second generation fuel head? Try to prime to fuel head and see if you get better idling. If you do then you may want to think about installing in-tank pump.

bigE.94 · **Joined:** Wed Jul 01, 2015 2:00 am **Posts:** 48

So I just finished installing the Weeks stage 1 and 2 kit, and I also added the 1/8th NPT tap for a boost gauge onto the weeks elbow. Maaaann is this thing a coal roller when you punch it...

I also checked with a code reader after and these were the following codes generated.

P1140- ??
P0403- EGR control circuit
P0610- Control Module vehicle options malfunction??

and that rough idle happened again when it was a cold start. Just when the engine warmed up, it went away, sooo..

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Aug 16, 2015 2:15 pm

P1140 - Vacuum Reservoir Solenoid Circuit Condition
Possible causes
- Faulty Vacuum Reservoir Solenoid
- Vacuum Reservoir Solenoid harness is open or shorted
- Vacuum Reservoir Solenoid circuit poor electrical connection

P0403, normal if you removed the FCV and EGR when you installed the Weeks kit.
Will have to do one of the Yeti FCV/EGR delete tunes to get rid of the DTC's
see this thread: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=78418

P0610,
Control Module Vehicle Options Error
What does this mean?
OBD Code P0610refers to
The ECM continuously monitors its internal memory status, internal circuits, and output signals to the throttle actuator. This self−check insures that the ECM is functioning properly. If any malfunction is detected, the ECM will set the code and illuminate the engine light.
Symptoms
Possible symptoms of OBD code P0610
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light) - Engine may not start
Possible causes of OBD code P0610
Jump starting the battery
Overcharging the battery using a BOOST start battery charger. (High voltage spike)
- ECM Harness power supply circuit is open or shorted - ECM Programing - Faulty ECM The Error code is generally activated on detection of the following conditions: The ECM is programmed for an automatic/manual transmission but is detecting the opposite
Possible Solutions
- Resecure ECM connectors - Reprogram ECM (tune)- Replace ECM
Check with Yeti or one of the other programing experts, may be able to disable this DTC in a tune?
:wink:

Yeti · **Posted:** Mon Aug 17, 2015 4:20 pm

P1140 is a stuck open FCV or unplugged FCV

bigE.94 · **Joined:** Wed Jul 01, 2015 2:00 am **Posts:** 48

Yeti wrote:

P1140 is a stuck open FCV or unplugged FCV

That would make sense since I did put a stage 1 and 2 Weeks kits..

Yeti · **Posted:** Fri Aug 21, 2015 5:29 am

yes , you need to reprogram the ecu with one file in the DIY ECU Flash , and correct the DTC table for the P1140

bigE.94 · **Joined:** Wed Jul 01, 2015 2:00 am **Posts:** 48

Yeti wrote:

yes , you need to reprogram the ecu with one file in the DIY ECU Flash , and correct the DTC table for the P1140

what will happen if I don't correct it soon?

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:52 pm

bigE.94 wrote:

Yeti wrote:

yes , you need to reprogram the ecu with one file in the DIY ECU Flash , and correct the DTC table for the P1140

what will happen if I don't correct it soon?

Nothing more than having to live with the check engine lite on.

bigE.94 · **Joined:** Wed Jul 01, 2015 2:00 am **Posts:** 48

Ok guys so allot has happened since Ive been here last.

1. The rough idle has been fixed with a simple new fuel rail line and connectors.
2. Changed out the fuel filter 2 times now in the 1st time at 101K and then again at 106K
3. I straight piped the exhaust because my exhaust muffler was rusting through.
4. took out the provent and now just have the CCV fumes go down to the ground, because it would seriously clog the air filter and airbox the way the previous owner routed it.
5. One of the idler pulleys on the serpentine belt gave out, so it resulted in the belt ripping so I changed out ALL the pulleys and idlers from IDparts.com
6. Changed the timing belt and the pulleys as well. Also got it from IDparts.com
7. Also cleaned out the MAF sensor and MAP sensors as well.

So far that's all that I can recall off the top of my head.

But now, I've ran into another few problems.

1. I now have this weird rattling sound, and it sounds as if its coming from either the front, or the bottom rear end of the engine. I don't know exactly how to describe it, but it sounds as if a can is rattling against the engine. But it only does so when idling. Not during increased engine speed. Here's the link to the video. https://youtu.be/BBn4TA3rFeA

2. For some reason, I'm noticing that a white smoke comes out when its standing and idling, then it turns bluish when you give it some gas. I'm guessing I'm starting to somehow burn oil.

3. when driving on the highway and letting off the gas after speeding up or passing a slower vehicle, the rear end sways a bit like as if the axle is loose.

Anyways, after doing all that, I still wanna keep it for a while and continue driving it. So any help, advice, comments, or anything is appreciated.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Wed Sep 07, 2016 9:20 pm

1. Could be motor mounts.

2. White smoke is coolant/head gasket leak. Have you had to add coolant?

3. Check the upper control arm. There are 2 bushings, 1 for each side and then a ball joint in the center. They sell the entire thing complete which is a little more than buying the 3 parts to rebuild yours. You can decide which way you want to go. The latter will take more time.

bigE.94 · **Joined:** Wed Jul 01, 2015 2:00 am **Posts:** 48

jws84_02 wrote:

1. Could be motor mounts.

2. White smoke is coolant/head gasket leak. Have you had to add coolant?

3. Check the upper control arm. There are 2 bushings, 1 for each side and then a ball joint in the center. They sell the entire thing complete which is a little more than buying the 3 parts to rebuild yours. You can decide which way you want to go. The latter will take more time.

1. I initially thought that as well.

2. No, but i did have to add oil because whenever its cold started, it seems to be super low on oil. Just today I already almost added 2 quarts of 5w40 Mobil-1. It seemed perfectly in between the min and max a few hrs ago, and now its again barely touching the dipstick.

3. after this, i sure will go check it out.

What are these mods?

Who is online