DACCO R36LS Torque Converter report w/ video *failed

deeprecon1 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 13, 2015 4:25 pm

The intent of this thread is to get some real world data from the Dacco TC.

I have almost 3k miles on the the DACCO R36LS Torque Converter.

Trying to help others who are debating the R36LS vs other options.

Cost $150 with core return - Rock Auto
Install $450 labor Trans fluid
I am ran for a week with the stock TUNE .. not sure how many miles I would guess 500 miles before running Nicks 811 stage one tune.

Ran Nicks stage 1 tune for just a couple days, I observed no issues in regards to the TC.

Ran Yetis stage II hot tune for two weeks and did have a little TC shudder NOT bad but would not recommend this TC

I am going to log Video and data .. in the very near future.

IMO Don't waste your money on this TC if you plan on towing or running a hot tune ...

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 13, 2015 9:12 pm

Is this a "Hemi" torque converter?
If so, how does it feel conpared to stock?
Does it feel tighter and keep rpm lower during hard acceleration with TC clutch unlocked, like a lower stall TC should?
Or does it feel soft and slushy like the stock TC?

I've run both the Nicks stage 1 and Yeti stage 2 tunes and I noticed more TC shudder with Nicks than Yeti.

deeprecon1 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 13, 2015 9:19 pm

OK here is a video of me at speed turning off O/D ...

you can see the rpm jumps but the nothing transfers from the engine to wheels

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SUAlQ35GA_Y

deeprecon1 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 13, 2015 9:42 pm

Using torq pro I have the following DTCs not sure any of them indicate tranny issues. from what I search these all go back to unplugging the airbox. which is weird I am running nicks stage 1 tune with deletes ?

P1189 Boost pressure sensor
P0102 MAF un plugged
P0211 ?

:juggle:

So I went outside plugged the stock airbox connections back in and Bamm! back to normal. NO more DTC and the tranny went back to normal shifting with O/D on and off.

I also added half a quart of Trans fluid for good measure. I will post a video tomorrow ..

camo · **Posted:** Thu Aug 13, 2015 11:14 pm

Do you have a 2 DIN aftermarket radio? if so can you post a pic out?

deeprecon1 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 13, 2015 11:32 pm

OFF TOPIC lol

camo wrote:

Do you have a 2 DIN aftermarket radio? if so can you post a pic out?

yes done under $40 dash kit wire harness amazon. you will have to hack the dash behind the head unit ..

deeprecon1 · **Posted:** Fri Aug 14, 2015 9:36 am

Flash it would be unfair of me to compare the stock TC vs the R36. I had the R36 installed almost immediately when the libby was delivered.

I do believe the R36 is the "HEMI" TC most refer to here on lostjeep.

I will run Nicks tune all next week and try and log some video.

With the above codes the tranny was acting strange. After adding the 1/2 quart of A/T fluid, plugging the two connectors back in the airbox the TC / tranny seem a lot happier

I have no doubt that the R36 TC works well, just not sure it the right call with HOT tunes or towing. I plan on towing my travel trailer in a couple weeks.

flash7210 wrote:

Is this a "Hemi" torque converter?
If so, how does it feel conpared to stock?
Does it feel tighter and keep rpm lower during hard acceleration with TC clutch unlocked, like a lower stall TC should?
Or does it feel soft and slushy like the stock TC?

I've run both the Nicks stage 1 and Yeti stage 2 tunes and I noticed more TC shudder with Nicks than Yeti.

Bearded1 · **Joined:** Wed Oct 01, 2014 4:53 pm **Posts:** 15

I would think lack of proper fluid/setup may have something to do with your results. I have ran yeti's stage 2 tune for thousands of miles with (as far as I know) a Mopar torque converter and no ill effects.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Aug 16, 2015 8:33 pm

Thanks for the thread. I hope I have better luck with my "hemi" TC when I finally get it installed. I'll report back :JEEPIN:

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Aug 17, 2015 6:33 am

I have been watching this thread with interest as well, and also believe that your issues may be due to low fluid levels. The dipstick reaches too low in the pan which means that if you are using the "full" mark on the stick, then you are running with too little fluid in the system.

Meanwhile, I have a crd with this exact r36 converter in it right now, that I will be reassembling the engine on soon. Once that is done, I will have a much better idea of how this converter performs in this application. I do think, based on the application list, that this should work just great - one of the listed vehicles is a v8 powered Jeep Overland!

Try adding a quart or three and see what happens to the performance.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Aug 17, 2015 12:13 pm

Yeah, tranny fluid levels give me nightmares on these things. I was always a standard tranny guy... Anyhow, my biggest fear is that you could damage something with too much fluid, right?
My daily driver leaks fluid if I add anymore than it currently has, but doesn't leak a drop otherwise :ALONE:

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Aug 17, 2015 6:58 pm

This is a huge system, and it can handle some excess fluid. I wouldn't try filling it with a gallon at a time to check things, but just for reference... The book says a transmission filter and fluid change is supposed to be 7 quarts. I did that, and it drove AWFUL until I added in 2 more. 8 total didn't do it, with 9 it smoothed right out and was happy.

Drive it by feel, less than the stick. The holes in the stick are where I would consider "full" based on where the stick bottoms in the pan as it is now, BUT your reading may vary. Start with the factory information (refill based on the work just performed) and add to taste from there. If the transmission isn't shifting smooth and proper, if it is bucking and jerking, that is a clue that it doesn't have enough fluid to do the work it needs to do.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:43 pm

Glad to hear that extra doesn't kill it, thanks :rockon:

pjigar · **Posted:** Mon Aug 24, 2015 2:57 pm

I had to add more than 9 qt when did transmission filter change. It didn't shift at all with 7 qt which gave me a gasp!

deeprecon1 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 05, 2016 10:52 am

With out a full inspection im thinking the TC just gave up.... I will try and get pics when the sun rises. I was on my way to work minding my own business and the tranny started slipping.... turned it around and limped it home.

I can smell the Tranny fluid and the front of the bell housing is covered in ATF. I was lucky enough to limp it back to the house

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Jan 05, 2016 12:27 pm

I'm no auto tranny expert, but I don't see how a failed TC could cause a fluid leak, other than the one little o-ring on the shaft getting cooked maybe? hmm, hopefully someone that knows will chime in.

olypopper · **Posted:** Tue Jan 05, 2016 1:28 pm

Mountainman wrote:

I'm no auto tranny expert, but I don't see how a failed TC could cause a fluid leak, other than the one little o-ring on the shaft getting cooked maybe? hmm, hopefully someone that knows will chime in.

I'm no expert transmission guy either but a failed TC can certainly cause a leak. When a torque converter fails by slipping, it creates massive amounts of heat and that is usually why the front cover seal vomits fluid everywhere. This has happened to me more than once on a ram 1500 (same trans) that I had rebuilt by a tranny shop that did GM stuff and had no experience with Mopar transmissions. They kept putting in crap reman valve bodies and off the shelf reman torque converters. Any slippage and BAM, leaks.

Also, when a TC grenades, they will pump the front pump full of metal. This is why you ALWAYS replace the front pump when doing a Torque converter swap (or at least inspect it thoroughly if its a serviceable type)

deeprecon1 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 05, 2016 2:30 pm

I had the TC replaced last year and new pump seal put in, how ever I just started using the jeep on the mountain (4 low and lots of 4hi ). Two thoughts, one the TC cracked or the seal was crappy (cooked or failed) I am thinking the TC help the seal fail but wont have any conformation until its taken apart.

I have learned my lesson ($450) labor. I am now just going to get a suncoast if I can get them to call me back..... ? The trans kit upgrade is something I need help getting the part numbers so I can order.

Is there a vendor that has our Suncoast Tc on the shelf ?

Try to get pictures as the Tranny gets pulled .....

olypopper · **Posted:** Tue Jan 05, 2016 3:12 pm

http://www.transgo.com/products.php?cat ... duct_id=96

This is the kit I put in my transmission.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Jan 05, 2016 5:36 pm

That's right, I forgot there are two seals, and the heat makes sense also. hmm, I sure hope the Mopar "hemi" TC I got is tougher. I haven't installed it yet, too many other jeeps in line before I finally fix mine...

I wonder if the engine mounts last a lot longer with the Suncoast, since it smooths out the engine so much? I'm afraid that since I spend so much time unlocked on dirt roads (going about 25mph) that the suncoast would cost me significant MPG's with the additional mass though...

Thefunk got a custom TC from Florida TC I think. I'd ask how his is holding up. It was relatively cheap, like 3-400 I think.

DACCO R36LS Torque Converter report w/ video *failed

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