For those who are using the aluminum in-line thermostat housing, this might be worth looking at.
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=61
I dont have one.
The downside is that the engine might run a bit cool, even with a 195 stat.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

Did you had ARP head studs? I don't see why flow would matter. The head temperature should never exceed 195F as long as 195F tstat open at designed temperature. Am I missing something?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
'06 Liberty CRD Limited. Bought at 91K miles.
ARP studs, New rockers, Stant inline tstat, Weeks 1&2, Provent, IDParts Silicone hoses,
2-1/2" Full OME lift, Timing belt, Water pump, TransGo kit, Plastic fan, Fumoto
2nd gen fuel head with 2nd stage 2 micron filter, in-tank lift pump, G2 Rear Diff Cover

I think the concern with the factory thermostat is that when it fails, you dont know exactly what state its in.
The factory thermostat has two valves. The main outlet to the radiator and the bypass outlet back to the water pump.
When the main outlet opens, the bypass closes and vice versa.

So, if the factory thermostat failed in the fully open position, that means the bypass is fully closed.
And if you put some sort of in-line thermostat in the upper radiator hose, that means there is zero coolant movement until the thermostat opens.

Personally, I dont believe this is the case. I think that when it fails it goes into some sort of partially open/closed position. Also, the small hose coming off the thermostat housing and up to the coolant tank always has coolant flowing through it. So some coolant is always getting bypassed.

This is what I did with my factory thermostat:
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=82256
I have since added a 195 in-line thermostat.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

ARP's are next. But, my concern, beyond what Flash mentioned, is the fact that the clamshell is way out there/further down the line. Being further from the source of heat, who knows how hot the head gets before the heat makes it way out to the clamshell stat. I think they're ok for light use, but I tow 6-7k from time to time... Pretty amazing mileage for a vehicle that can tow that much

_________________
05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

I see. I have done couple of things that may help with "head can get too hot" issue. Correct if my logic is flawed.
1. I have made sure that the inline clam shell touches the original thermostat body when clamping down. This will help transfer heat by metal to metal contact.
2. I have 1/8" hole drilled on the skirt of the inline thermostat. This will help with coolant movement. So in theory, moving coolant from head would reach thermostat faster and help it open before coolant in the head gets too hot.

_________________
'06 Liberty CRD Limited. Bought at 91K miles.
ARP studs, New rockers, Stant inline tstat, Weeks 1&2, Provent, IDParts Silicone hoses,
2-1/2" Full OME lift, Timing belt, Water pump, TransGo kit, Plastic fan, Fumoto
2nd gen fuel head with 2nd stage 2 micron filter, in-tank lift pump, G2 Rear Diff Cover