Hi Folks,

I am new to posting but been a lurker on this great site since I bought my crd used 3 yrs ago. But now I have a problem that I have not found a post for. My CRD started blowing black smoke 3 weeks ago on startup and hard acceleration. today my typical turbo whine has been replaced by a screech under and large amounts of white and black smoke under even modest loads. No ratteling but there is a notable power loss although it is drive able if you need to escape under cover of a smoke screen

The former owner claimed to have replaced the timing belt and I just had the serpentine Belt & tensioner replaced <2K mi ago.

Any basic or advanced suggestions would be welcome!



PanAmCRD
2006 Liberty CRD

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

Noises are generally not electrical. Screeching noises suggest a turbo that is on the way out, and should be addressed sooner rather than later for the safety of the engine.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 125 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Just had mine do the same thing but with pure white smoke, deffinetly turbo for you if its screeching; I reccomend going with a green diesel turbo.

White smoke=water in the combustion chamber. Faulty EGR valve, head gasket or less likely water in your fuel.

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2005 KJ RENAGADE 2.8 CRD 6 SPEED NP242 FULLTIME 4X4

PanAm CRD: Where are you located?

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 125 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Get us some video or audio.

_________________
Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

Thanks for All the feed back everyone!
I am in South Orange county, Southern Ca,

Based on everyone's input I:

1) Cleaned the MAP & MAP sensors. The MAF was a little dirty but nothing bad cleaned it anyway . The MAP was solid soot With black wet oil on it ??? While I had the MAP out I put my snake camera into the intake head and noticed a LOT of black oil That oil might be from a gas station attendant that overfilled the oil (Bad) while my wife was driving my jeep while I worked on her Jag.

2) Pulled the intake hose off the Turbocharger. The hose had light oil from the CCV but the closer you got to the turbo the more oil there was in the hose especially right at the turbo. Even w/o doing the turbo finger test I knew I had a blow turbo which the finger test confirmed. Pulled the turbo output hose to the inter cooler and sure enough there was oil in the turbo end of the hose but a lot less at the inter cooler side. At this point It was obvious, based upon the post I had read that the oil was coming from the blown turbo bearing so ordered a replacement turbo that will be here Thursday.

3) While I am waiting for the $400 turbo replacement I will pull the turbo and do some general maint like clean the intake path, turbo hoses and FCV/EGR.

4) In 3 yrs I have never had to top off the radiator fluid. Is there another reason for the white smoke besides water in the intake? What about all that Oil from the turbo Bering / oil over fill?

I Need Suggestions:

1) Can anyone give me any turbo swap suggestions or recommend one or more LostJeeps posts?
The top forward bolt looks like it is going to be a bear unless I remove one of the turbo cartridge bolts.

2) What I the easiest way to do a good cleaning on the intake path and CCV,FCV/EGR?
How Hard is it to remove and clean the FCV w/o removing the fuel filter/heater?

3) I am starting to get suspicious about the timing belt having been changed by the former owner.
There are no visible socket marks on the bolt heads that hold on the timing belt cover ????.

What would be the easiest way to check the timing belt? Frankly it looks like I might have to take off the front of the car to do the water pump and belt replacement. Is it any easier to just check it?

PanAmCRD

1. While you were dealing with this loud screech, exhaust smoke, low power problem, were you checking the engine oil level?
If the turbo seals were leaking you should have noticed some rapid consumption of oil.

2. $400 replacment turbo? I hope its not made in china.
Seriously, you've got a 50/50 shot at a cheap rebuilt turbo lasting more than 10,000 miles.

3. There is no easy way to check the condition of the timing belt. Once you have taken things apart enough to see the belt you may as well just replace it.
How many miles are on your CRD? You should probably replace the water pump too.

4. Most of the intake crud collects around the intake elbow. You can clean it out but the best thing to do is replace it with the SasquatchParts Stage 1 EGR delete kit.
The intake manifold/valve cover can get crudded up too and might need cleaning but that is much more difficult to remove.

5. Turbo replacment can be a pain. Use wobble extentions to help get into those tight places.
The turbo oil drain pipe is probably the most difficult part of the process.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

Thanks for the input Flash & Everyone

1) As soon as the big white clouds and screeching started I parked the CRD. The oil level was low due to high oil use but still visible on the stick.

2) I always buy New parts from suppliers that provide at least a 1yr warranty. The rebuilds are actually about the same price as the "Guaranteed New" turbo (after discounts and points). I Previously replaced a turbo in my MR2 (Ferrari looking T top model) years back and ran it 30K miles before I sold it. I still see it running around town I don't think the kid who bought it treats it with Kid gloves "understatement" .

3)

4) Unfortunately the enviro police and smog stations around hear do not like CRD. I have had the vehicle smog-ed twice since I bought it and both times they visually inspected the FCV! So My plan is to clean everything up and then use the ORM to maximize fuel economy and minimize pollution while off road.

I have seen several products advertised that claim to clean up the FCV/EGR and intake but I am hesitant to use them to until after I have already cleaned up the FCV and intake elbow so I can concentrate on cleaning the intake manifold. Is this stuff safe to use? Will it kill my O2 sensor? Should I just live with some smoke until the oil in the intake cleans itself?

I have also read warnings that say you should use the cleaner in very short bursts with a long delay so that you do not get diesel run away. Can that happen if you have a functional FCV?

To be safe I am planning on cleaning the inter cooler & associated rubber hoses with a pressure washer .


5) Thanks for the hint on the wobble connectors. Any hints on the easiest way to deal with the turbo oil supply and return?

PanAmCRD

While I have the CRD apart, are there any little things I can do to optimize my MPG? I read and plan to do all the intake stuff on the "Noob Guide".

When I first bought the CRD used I was getting 27-30 MPG @ 65mph on Cruise control on rolling highways and 20 to 22 around town. I would be fine with just getting back to an average of 23 - 24 mpg per tank. I have noticed that Ca Diesel gives me lower MPG than AZ, NV or OR.

The original owner said he had an MPG tune on the computer but who can tell. I suspect that just getting boost back up to snuff along with a clean intake and MAP will help enormously but some times little things can make a big difference.

I have a very good ODB box that lets me monitor and display all the CRDs sensors in real time and provide virtual gauges on my smart phone. It has been flawless at predicting a pass or fail for smog. Since they really only fail if the check engine light is on .
GPS based ODB MPG averages closely matched my tank fill MPG numbers. Prior to the smoke and screeching noise I was getting 12 to 14psi peak boost off the MAP which matched my old fashion mechanical Boost Gauge I also have a separate EGT gauge to keep an eye on things when 4x4 at low RPM and high temps.

My CRD wont go all the places I used to take My Pinzgaure "K" camper but it gets me and the wife to the end of the road in a lot more comfort! And like the pinz it is narrower than most 4x4, except my old Samari, making it easier to squeeze between obsticals that make other 4x4 turn back or take the long way around 2" can easily cost you 2 hrs in real NO roading. Or your paint on lightly used trails.


P.S I just checked and have to smog the CRD again in a few months so I plan to put the CRD together ready to smog.

Thanks again
PanAmCRD

Thanks for the heads up on the wire harness issue BillWill

I may have to take the fuel filter off anyway to clean the EGR.

12 to 14 psi seems very low, mine will peak as high as 25 and settle back to around 22psi on a up hill drag strip.

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2005 KJ RENAGADE 2.8 CRD 6 SPEED NP242 FULLTIME 4X4

Your Right LaCabrera

I just checked the settings and logs on my ODB Boost Gauge and it was averaging short peaks. The real peaks went up to 18psi in the log file after I cleaned up the MAP even though I could not see them in around town driving. I guess that is to be expected considering the condition of the turbo when I cleaned the MAP;)

While I am cleaning the turbo hoses and FCV I will check for cracks and pay close attention to the analog boost gauge vs ODB MAP readings when I have the new turbo in. Who Knows, I may need a new MAP it was pretty gunked up when I cleaned it. I was surprised it was reading at all!

The analog boost gauge was the best indication of my MR2's Turbo failure. As the bearings fail you get a noticeable increase in turbo lag. The digital gauges don't show it as well.

Unfortunately the analog Boost & EGT are not as easy to see on my CRD. I may need to move them to the driver side pillar. I bought the housing but never did the relocate.

New Turbo Arrives Today
Which means I have a lot of cleaning to do before it gets here

Any suggestions on a good oil system cleaning additive that wont kill the turbo while I run it in?

Thanks
PanAmCRD

1) Any suggestions on a good oil system cleaning additive that wont kill the turbo while I run it in?
2) Should I add in Lucas or other during cleaning / run in?
3) How long should I run it in before doing the full oil change?

Thanks,
PanAmCRD

I would change the oil and filter while you are replacing the turbo.
Use a good oil meant for turbo diesel trucks with no additional cleaners or additives.
If you want, you can "run it in" with Rotella 15w40 contentional or 10w30 semi synthetic.
Then after 2-3000 miles change the oil and filter and use a 5w-40 synthetic.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

Thanks Flash

I was planing on putting something thicker in before going back to the mobile diesel truck oil. May even throw a little lucus in the turbo before I bolt it up. I also plan on going through two filters during the run in. One at 250 miles, another at 500 and then a really good filter at 1K with full oil change back to the Mobile turbo diesel truck oil.

Can you recommend any oil cleaning additives that I could add at 100 miles and during the 250 mile oil change to help de sludge the engine?

PanAmCRD

Just finished cleaning the turbo intake hose, boost hoses and inter cooler with the high presser washer and a mild soap. It worked great! Removed the gunk I was worried about ahead of the FCV! Boost hoses are actually in great condition, no splits, and may have been changed by the previous owner as they do not look stock .

Now I am concentrating on how I will clean the Intake Path FCV/EGR and manifold.
I Found Two well recommended and reviewed Diesel Intake Path FCV/EGR cleaners. BG255 & JLM.

The JLM SPRAY is much easier to use and gets great reviews but is not available for import from the Netherlands to the US.

The BG255 Diesel Induction System Cleaner ISC 32oz ($34 ebay) also gets good reviews but is a liquid that must be atomized before injecting it into the FCV. Neither product is recommended for use ahead of the intercooler and associated rubber boost hoses. But I have already cleaned those anyway

Has anyone here had any experience using BG255 on a CRD?

Thanks,
PanAMCRD

Why not replace the FCV with the weeks elbow and remove the EGR, as for cleaning the inlet manifold it will self clean within a few thousand miles from no longer receiving the soot/exhaust bi products developed from the EGR valve.

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2005 KJ RENAGADE 2.8 CRD 6 SPEED NP242 FULLTIME 4X4

LaCabrera


1) How do you pass smog in CA with the with the Weeks elbow in plain view?
2) How is that better than just running the ORM (Off road Modification) until you need to smog?

I am all ears...

Thanks for the recommendation.
I plan to do a little active cleaning of the intake, FCV, EGR and manifold and then just let the time take care of the rest during the oil changes.

As I get ready to put the new turbo in does anyone have a detailed procedure list or video of things to make sure you do like check the oil inlet and outlet hoses?

I am sure their are quite a few little details & steps that make a big difference The devil does lie in the lack of attention to details!

Thanks,
PanAmCRD