My latest can of worms CRD [FIXED]

Mountainman · **Posted:** Fri Aug 28, 2015 5:08 pm

Well, here I go again. Tearing in to a CRD I bought a while back. The fellow who had it apparently broke some rockers, and had trouble getting it back together right. He had the timing belt on, and the top end all reassembled.

Anyhow, I first tried to bar it over, and it rotated 20-30 degrees and stopped on a valve. I could feel the springiness of the valve. I figured with the front cover off I might as well at least re-time it to make sure it's all good. So, I pull the belt off, and move the cams to pin them, they rotated freely and sounded ok. I pinned them, and now it turns further, but is still hitting a valve. I can't get the crank to the timing mark/bolts horizontal&vertical without hitting a valve. I'm wondering if there's a piece of collapsed rocker or carbon, or glow plug on a piston??? If anyone knows the other threads that talked about those instances I'd appreciate it.

I hope I don't have to pull the top, but I've got ARP's sitting there if I do. Any thoughts?
Stretched rods and valves hammered into the pistons are also coming to mind :cry:

rankom · **Posted:** Fri Aug 28, 2015 9:06 pm

you need to remove valve cover , and double check rockers and valves , take time and inspect them , bar engine over , if turns ok , assembly again and re time it properly ,hope its not bent valve.

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Aug 28, 2015 9:08 pm

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Aug 28, 2015 11:47 pm

This won't make you feel any better, but welcome to my world. This is exactly the same kind of situation that I discovered on the sick CRD that I recently rescued.

I'm currently deciding between the equally poor options of replacing the block, replacing the entire engine, or parting it out.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Jay ne Ohio · **Joined:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 5:49 pm **Posts:** 216

I had the same problem when I replaced the rockers on my red CRD. While the rockers were out, I pushed down on all valves to make sure every one of them was working freely. This caused a piece of carbon to fall off the valve and onto the piston. It was probably only 1/8 inch thick but there is no clearance for anything to be in the cylinder when the piston reaches TDC. I had to remove the head and clean the piston tops. Here are a couple pics:

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sat Aug 29, 2015 8:33 am

I seem to remember a thread awhile back about a similar problem.
If i remeber correctly, one of the alignment pins for the top cover fell down and got stuck in the balance shafts down is the crankcase.

I would at least remove the top cover so you can get a good look at the rockers and valve springs. Maybe there is a broken valve or rocker.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Aug 30, 2015 11:39 am

Thanks fellas, I was hoping that I'd have one that I wouldn't have to pop the top on, but oh well. It will be better with some ARP's.

-Geordi. The guy I got it from put new rockers is it (or so he says), and I'm inclined to believe him, so I think I'm not looking at anything too bad. But, then again, he said it turned over just fine :banghead:

So, he probably timed it wrong, and re-smashed some new rockers, or worse. He said he never got it started, so hopefully that means that rockers, and maybe valves are my biggest problems :5SHOTS:

I wonder how cheap I can get a bore scope or whatever kind of camera to get a look in the injector holes? Maybe I'll get away with leaving the top on if it's just debris :juggle:

Jay ne Ohio · **Joined:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 5:49 pm **Posts:** 216

I have a borescope (inspection camera), but the camera does not fit in the injector hole. I think the hole is around 8mm and the camera is 8.5mm. So if you are looking at camera's, make sure to find one with a small camera (7mm or less).

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Aug 30, 2015 1:34 pm

I bought one that does fit within the injector hole - I can get you the model if you want, but here's the problem: Can't see crap with it. The camera is too small to have a decent enough lens size, any grime or debris will instantly cover the lens and you have to pull it out to wipe it... And then b/c everything in there is black and oily, you will need a stronger light source than the little LEDs on it to light up the space.

I did manage to confirm that a chunk of glow plug had gotten into the top of a piston with the camera, but I still ended up lifting the head on that particular CRD to clean everything.

Yes it sucks, but better to just bite the bullet and do it. You won't be happy with the lack of control or vision with one of these cameras. They don't perform like in the movies where you can control what it is looking at and see entire vistas.

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Aug 31, 2015 10:19 am

I agree with Geordi, you took out almost everything but the cyl head. You'll probably replace the studs with arp. So take that sucker cyl head out and turn the engine and see if it is fine or not. It would cost you a head gasket and the studs. And I also think you like getting your hands dirty on those crds, lol.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Aug 31, 2015 11:31 am

Alright, I'll tear it open. But, not without kicking and screaming! dang, this one looks to have a good HG too. oh well, I always wonder if I'll get my investment back with the ARP installs. At least it's better than the one that I have to replace a sleeve on, maybe...

Thanks for the advice on the cameras especially. I don't want to buy one just to find it barely works.

Anyone have a spare weeks kit sitting around :lol:

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Sep 01, 2015 3:56 pm

Mountainman wrote:

:cry: Alright, I'll tear it open. But, not without kicking and screaming! dang, this one looks to have a good HG too. oh well, I always wonder if I'll get my investment back with the ARP installs. At least it's better than the one that I have to replace a sleeve on, maybe...

Thanks for the advice on the cameras especially. I don't want to buy one just to find it barely works.

Anyone have a spare weeks kit sitting around :lol:

I have just the elbow if you want it. I believe Weeks sells the other parts too, you should pm him. I have the elbow with glow plug from weeks, so you may have the regular elbow if you want, just pay shipping and promise a ride in the new crd when you fix it

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Sep 01, 2015 6:04 pm

thermorex wrote:

Mountainman wrote:

:cry: Alright, I'll tear it open. But, not without kicking and screaming! dang, this one looks to have a good HG too. oh well, I always wonder if I'll get my investment back with the ARP installs. At least it's better than the one that I have to replace a sleeve on, maybe...

Thanks for the advice on the cameras especially. I don't want to buy one just to find it barely works.

Anyone have a spare weeks kit sitting around :lol:

I have just the elbow if you want it. I believe Weeks sells the other parts too, you should pm him. I have the elbow with glow plug from weeks, so you may have the regular elbow if you want, just pay shipping and promise a ride in the new crd when you fix it

Alright! Maybe I have a spare CRD part that I can send in return :JEEPIN:

Sending a PM

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Sep 02, 2015 5:55 pm

Mountainman wrote:

thermorex wrote:

Mountainman wrote:

:cry: Alright, I'll tear it open. But, not without kicking and screaming! dang, this one looks to have a good HG too. oh well, I always wonder if I'll get my investment back with the ARP installs. At least it's better than the one that I have to replace a sleeve on, maybe...

Thanks for the advice on the cameras especially. I don't want to buy one just to find it barely works.

Anyone have a spare weeks kit sitting around :lol:

I have just the elbow if you want it. I believe Weeks sells the other parts too, you should pm him. I have the elbow with glow plug from weeks, so you may have the regular elbow if you want, just pay shipping and promise a ride in the new crd when you fix it

Alright! Maybe I have a spare CRD part that I can send in return :JEEPIN:

Sending a PM

Good you updated the thread, I missed the pm... I am using tapatalk and turned off the notifications, too many beeps, and I usually delete emails from lost on bulk. I replied you back.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Wed Sep 02, 2015 10:10 pm

Thanks again for the generosity, I'm going to try and carve up one of my numerous FCV/intake assemblies to accept the elbow with a cut up old boost hose. I haven't measured anything yet, but might be a cheap way to go. Doing all the nice mods X2 gets expensive! I am excited to see how Weeks heater works though. I've been thinking about trying to get two batteries under the hood, but now I'm rambling...

thermorex · **Posted:** Thu Sep 03, 2015 8:29 am

Mountainman wrote:

Thanks again for the generosity, I'm going to try and carve up one of my numerous FCV/intake assemblies to accept the elbow with a cut up old boost hose. I haven't measured anything yet, but might be a cheap way to go. Doing all the nice mods X2 gets expensive! I am excited to see how Weeks heater works though. I've been thinking about trying to get two batteries under the hood, but now I'm rambling...

I like weeks elbow heater, but I would use 2 batteries with it. And a buzzer so you won't forget it on, I accidentally turned it on for 30-40 min about a month ago and it melted a bit the silicone that connects the elbow with valve cover and it blew off the elbow, so I had to tie it harder. Being in the mountains you'll get to use it a lot I'd guess. Plus if you plan adding a winch, 2 batteries become a must. I have mine after the rear bench. If you don't plan on using the rear bench, then you can install them in the back of the front seats, like I have them on the Cherokee. I'm not sure how can you fit 2 batteries under the hood though... Unless you move the engine in the rear, lol. I'll ship the elbow this weekend at the latest.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Thu Sep 03, 2015 10:52 am

Yeah, I wouldn't have room in the cab for them, as I'm always low on space as it is. But, I was thinking eliminate the stock air box (use a circular paper filter instead, although not good for hot weather towing) and make a mount there. Maybe a snorkle could be fitted to not be in the way.

That heater could really save my butt during elk hunting. I was thinking of using a little generator to plug the block heater into, but that's more space taken up, and a tempting item left for days to get stolen in the Jeep...

Plan B was pile hot coals under the jeep and wait for a long time :CAMPING:

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 03, 2015 12:35 pm

Fyi, if it's an option for you. I have a shuriken bt-35 underneath each back seat. It still allows the seats to fold down and utilizes dead space

Mountainman · **Posted:** Thu Sep 03, 2015 2:14 pm

jws84_02 wrote:

Fyi, if it's an option for you. I have a shuriken bt-35 underneath each back seat. It still allows the seats to fold down and utilizes dead space

wow, they fit under the seat without mods? That is a good idea. My only other concern would be a crash with batteries in the cab since I have my two sons in there often. I guess some steel straps bolted in would make it pretty safe?

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 03, 2015 3:38 pm

Yeah. You just gotta unbolt the 3 front brackets and fold the seat up. I have mine strap down with the metal strapping and self tapping screws. They are agm so other than a short(which my wires from front battery are fused) there isn't much caution

Edit-the shuriken bt-35 were the first ones I tried. They didn't allow the seats to fully fold down. I have since switched to 2 xs power d680's. Any model that has a depth no more than 4" will work. And go with agm for the obvious safety reason and not having to vent it

My latest can of worms CRD [FIXED]

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