Intermittent Stalling in reverse problem

JHolm · **Joined:** Mon Nov 10, 2014 11:05 am **Posts:** 45

I'm having an issue with my crd that's driving me nuts. When I shift into reverse and start to back up it feels like something is binding and it causing it to stall sometimes. The transmission had a oil and filter change 3 months ago. Oil is full, u-joints have been changed. Any ideas?

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flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 11, 2015 10:12 pm

Check the trans fluid level with engine running in N and park brake on.
If the fluid is at the full-hot mark add another half a quart of ATF+4.
These transmissions seem to work better when slightly overfilled.

Does it only do this in the morning after the vehicle has been sitting for several hours?
I suspect that this may be the common transmission drainback problem.
Try letting it idle in N for a minute before putting it in gear.

JHolm · **Joined:** Mon Nov 10, 2014 11:05 am **Posts:** 45

I'll try that over the next couple of days

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geordi · **Posted:** Fri Jun 12, 2015 2:30 am

Yep - either the drainback problem or it needs more juice. Don't worry about a half-quart, go for a full bottle. This system can hold a LOT of juice, and if your transmission service only put back the 7 quarts that the book says a 'normal' transmission change would need... You definitely don't have enough. I have experienced this transmission needing up to 9 quarts on a normal change before the thing will run right.

They do seem to like being a bit more filled. It may have a large bit to do with the dipstick bottoming in the pan, which suggests that the stick itself is too long and NOT giving an accurate measurement. Deeper in the pan moves the "full" mark to a lower point in the pan, lowering the overall fluid amount to where the transmission is not happy.

Trust your gut, try more fluid first. If it solves the problem, then I would mark your new "full" point on the stick and go from there.

JHolm · **Joined:** Mon Nov 10, 2014 11:05 am **Posts:** 45

If it is the "drainback" problem what causes it and how would I fix it. Is it the check valve in the spin on filter. I read a post about putting a check valve in the actual return line. I have tried to let it idle in N and it seems to help.

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flash7210 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 13, 2015 8:09 am

I believe its a check valve in the transmission pump.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Jun 13, 2015 8:57 am

Symptoms of the classic DCJ, been going on for decades, automatic transmission drain back problem are the transmission won't engage, sometimes only in reverse, immediately after cranking up and shifting into gear after the vehicle has been parked for several hours (ex. day at work or overnight). If you raise the rpms while in gear but tranny not engage when it engages it will be very "hard" and the vehicle may go only 100-200' before a hard stall maybe with a CEL. Upon restart it drives just fine and the CEL will go away after about 5 restarts. TSB 21-007-06 APR 06 discusses this.

Initially the cause was a bad batch of Mopar filters which included sets with a defective flat filter that would split at the seam. These got pulled from the market but for quite a while dumpster divers were selling them on ebay. Notwithstanding the initial cause the problem still shows up from time to time and can be caused by 1) a bad check valve in one (forget which one) of the tranny filters or b) a leak in the front pump.

Cures:
1. live with it, I did for like 20K miles, until the tranny needs service. When taking this approach on first start put vehicle in gear, if tranny does not immediately engage, shift into neutral (not park as tranny pumps faster in neutral), hold a high idle in neutral for 10-15 seconds, engage tranny and drive off like normal. If first cycle in neutral does not work, almost always does, repeat.
2. sometimes adding a bit extra ATF+4 helps.
3. service tranny with new name brand filters and ATF+4
4. replace old front pump with new style front pump. Note this requires dropping transmission and if you go this far I'd recommend popping in a Euro torque converter while you are in this far.
5. yes if you poke around on the forum at least one member installed a check valve in a tranny cooling line to cure the problem.

JHolm · **Joined:** Mon Nov 10, 2014 11:05 am **Posts:** 45

Thanks for the info. Since I just had the tranny serviced 3 months ago and my fluid is on the high side I'm going to try the check valve. It's quick and easy to try compared to pulling the tranny.

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papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Jun 13, 2015 12:14 pm

I would advise against trying the check valve just yet. It's an ok fix if drain back in fact is your problem and that needs to be confirmed first. So first thing is try the high idle in neutral trick that I noted. If this makes the problem go away then it's drain back and you can try the check valve but if not you need to dig further into what the problem is which could be a split flat filter; the press on filter came loose; or the side plate on the valve body inside the tranny sump is a bit loose.

flman · **Posted:** Sat Jun 13, 2015 3:42 pm

Did you use the correct fluid ATF+4, or a universal type that works fine in higher idling gassers and not so good in slower idling diesel?

JHolm · **Joined:** Mon Nov 10, 2014 11:05 am **Posts:** 45

Thanks for the advise, I might pick up oil and filters from the dealer and drop the pan. I had a shop do the oil change and they had messed up a couple other things, half the pan bolt were loose and a sensor was unplugged.

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JHolm · **Joined:** Mon Nov 10, 2014 11:05 am **Posts:** 45

I've been shifting to N and running it at 1500 rpm for 30 seconds and haven't had any problems since.

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papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Jun 15, 2015 8:35 pm

Sounds like you have confirmed that you have the drain back problem. If you are not positive the shop did it right I'd try OEM or WIX filters with ATF+4 next. The WIX kit (58843) has both filters and the pan gasket at a reasonable price.

JHolm · **Joined:** Mon Nov 10, 2014 11:05 am **Posts:** 45

About a month ago I did the oil and filter change with mopar parts, no change. Finaly last week I installed a check valve in the tranny cooler line. It seems to have worked! A big thanks to everyone that posted on this subject. I'm sure if I went to a tranny shop they would have told me I needed a rebuild.

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dirtmover · **Posted:** Sun Sep 20, 2015 9:40 am

Chrysler have put in line check valves in a number of their vehicles over the years. I'd bet that if they'd given us one most of us would have cut it out by now :roll:

. Apart from being a touch frustrating the drainback issue is completely benign. Sometimes it's best to just live with such quirks.

Intermittent Stalling in reverse problem

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