Reddish fluid leak

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 8:51 am

This chat is wandering all over the place so let me try to add a bit of clarity based on the assumption that there is reddish/brown fluid leaking somewhere just behind the grill keeping in mind that simple air flow will cause such fluid to spray to odd places so the actual leak location may not be obvious. In that area from back to front IIRC direction correctly you have a) the intercooler, b) radiator, and c) AC condenser with transmission cooler in the bottom. Before searching for the leak you need to identify exactly what the fluid is and just color won't cut it. The intercooler passes only air with some engine oil mist and, while it's not uncommon to have an intercooler leak at the plastic end cap seam, any drip would be black engine oil.

Your leak, as I previously mentioned, can be either coolant or automatic transmission fluid (ATF) both of which are or can be reddish/brown. I'm inclined to agree that it's most likely ATF fluid unless you have been losing coolant (see coolant level in tank on firewall). If so yes it's possible the transmission lines have corroded but a more common problem is the disconnect fittings where the lines connect to the transmission cooler in the bottom of the AC condenser. Those fittings might or might not be repairable or alternatively they may be replaceable with a bit of hose and clamps. As I recall the cooler lines are not generic. If the leak is in the transmission cooler itself I would recommend just cutting it out of the circuit (replacing the AC condenser is difficult and costly) and replacing it with an aftermarket transmission cooler just behind the grill. Lots of how to posts if you want to email me for links.

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 9:15 am

To add something : the Trans connectors to the cooler are known to get rusty and fail. I'd look those up first, if they are oily, you know you need to change them.

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

papaindigo wrote:

This chat is wandering all over the place so let me try to add a bit of clarity based on the assumption that there is reddish/brown fluid leaking somewhere just behind the grill keeping in mind that simple air flow will cause such fluid to spray to odd places so the actual leak location may not be obvious. In that area from back to front IIRC direction correctly you have a) the intercooler, b) radiator, and c) AC condenser with transmission cooler in the bottom. Before searching for the leak you need to identify exactly what the fluid is and just color won't cut it. The intercooler passes only air with some engine oil mist and, while it's not uncommon to have an intercooler leak at the plastic end cap seam, any drip would be black engine oil.

Your leak, as I previously mentioned, can be either coolant or automatic transmission fluid (ATF) both of which are or can be reddish/brown. I'm inclined to agree that it's most likely ATF fluid unless you have been losing coolant (see coolant level in tank on firewall). If so yes it's possible the transmission lines have corroded but a more common problem is the disconnect fittings where the lines connect to the transmission cooler in the bottom of the AC condenser. Those fittings might or might not be repairable or alternatively they may be replaceable with a bit of hose and clamps. As I recall the cooler lines are not generic. If the leak is in the transmission cooler itself I would recommend just cutting it out of the circuit (replacing the AC condenser is difficult and costly) and replacing it with an aftermarket transmission cooler just behind the grill. Lots of how to posts if you want to email me for links.

Thank you papaindigo. I think that if the leak comes from my radiator, the fluid would be transparent. (Although, the PO had a front collision long ago...)
Can you pass me those links related to the transmission lines going up to the transmission cooler on a pm?
Thank you!

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 2:06 pm

Email with links sent via forum

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

papaindigo wrote:

Email with links sent via forum

I didnt receive any pm from you. Did you reply to my pm?
Thank you

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

hgrimberg wrote:

papaindigo wrote:

Email with links sent via forum

I didnt receive any pm from you. Did you reply to my pm?
Thank you

Thank you! Got it! Will now have to see where I can find the fittings to replace the supposedly corroded ones.

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

All of these links likethis one: http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/transcooler.htm are showing that in order to fix this leak you have to add an auxiliary transmission cooler in a bypass connection. Why? Cant I just replace the corroded fittings and keep using my original transmission cooler?

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 9:22 pm

hgrimberg wrote:

All of these links likethis one: http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/transcooler.htm are showing that in order to fix this leak you have to add an auxiliary transmission cooler in a bypass connection. Why? Cant I just replace the corroded fittings and keep using my original transmission cooler?

You can, eurekaboy wanted extra cooling. But, depending where the leak is, you may need to buy new fittings that may cost more than a new, better Trans cooler.

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

thermorex wrote:

hgrimberg wrote:

All of these links likethis one: http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/transcooler.htm are showing that in order to fix this leak you have to add an auxiliary transmission cooler in a bypass connection. Why? Cant I just replace the corroded fittings and keep using my original transmission cooler?

You can, eurekaboy wanted extra cooling. But, depending where the leak is, you may need to buy new fittings that may cost more than a new, better Trans cooler.

Can I put generic fittings or are them Jeep Liberty/Chrysler specific?

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

I just called the Chrysler dealer and they say that these lines work at a very high pressure so if I try using a generic fitting it will probably brake and continue leaking in the near future so they offer to sell me the entire lines with the rubber and metal tubes included.

PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 11:32 am

hgrimberg wrote:

I just called the Chrysler dealer and they say that these lines work at a very high pressure so if I try using a generic fitting it will probably brake and continue leaking in the near future so they offer to sell me the entire lines with the rubber and metal tubes included.

has the leak location been verified yet???

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

PALiftedKK wrote:

hgrimberg wrote:

I just called the Chrysler dealer and they say that these lines work at a very high pressure so if I try using a generic fitting it will probably brake and continue leaking in the near future so they offer to sell me the entire lines with the rubber and metal tubes included.

has the leak location been verified yet???

No, this is all supposing that the leak comes from the fitting everybody here says it most likely come from.

PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 12:43 pm

look for the leak. :2cents:

be 100% sure that's the issue before waving money around the dealer

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

Is the radiator made out of aluminum or steel? It seems the leak comes out of the radiator so I"ll have to give it to a welder but I need to know if this is aluminum or steel.

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 5:40 pm

Radiator is aluminum. It has 2 holes in the bottom where some plastic fittings are inserted. I hope my memory serves me right... I deleted the stock cooler about 2 years ago and don't remember 100%...

But, it's not high pressure in those lines. At least not high enough to blow a transmission fluid hose and hose Clamps, and I'm telling you from my own experience of modifying every single Trans cooler in every car I owned. Dealer wants you to spend your money to them and it's using scare tactics.

If you don't want to spend too much money, I see 2 choices:

1. Get the fittings from a mopar dealer (online or brick and mortar). You change them. Or have a generic shop, comfortable with the work do it for you. Or:
2. Get e decent size STACKED PLATE Trans cooler. Cut the leaking metal lines as close to the stock cooler and use 3/8 uscg (marine) Trans lines and route them to your new stacked plate Trans cooler. Gates hose works too. You can find plenty write-ups in the tech section.

But, before you do this, go under the jeep and look. It's fairly easy to see if the lines are leaking. The stock Trans cooler is right at the bottom of the Ac condenser.

PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 6:06 pm

thermorex wrote:

Radiator is aluminum. It has 2 holes in the bottom where some plastic fittings are inserted. I hope my memory serves me right... I deleted the stock cooler about 2 years ago and don't remember 100%...

But, it's not high pressure in those lines. At least not high enough to blow a transmission fluid hose and hose Clamps, and I'm telling you from my own experience of modifying every single Trans cooler in every car I owned. Dealer wants you to spend your money to them and it's using scare tactics.

If you don't want to spend too much money, I see 2 choices:

1. Get the fittings from a mopar dealer (online or brick and mortar). You change them. Or have a generic shop, comfortable with the work do it for you. Or:
2. Get e decent size STACKED PLATE Trans cooler. Cut the leaking metal lines as close to the stock cooler and use 3/8 uscg (marine) Trans lines and route them to your new stacked plate Trans cooler. Gates hose works too. You can find plenty write-ups in the tech section.

But, before you do this, go under the jeep and look. It's fairly easy to see if the lines are leaking. The stock Trans cooler is right at the bottom of the Ac condenser.

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 6:27 pm

PALiftedKK wrote:

thermorex wrote:

Radiator is aluminum. It has 2 holes in the bottom where some plastic fittings are inserted. I hope my memory serves me right... I deleted the stock cooler about 2 years ago and don't remember 100%...

But, it's not high pressure in those lines. At least not high enough to blow a transmission fluid hose and hose Clamps, and I'm telling you from my own experience of modifying every single Trans cooler in every car I owned. Dealer wants you to spend your money to them and it's using scare tactics.

If you don't want to spend too much money, I see 2 choices:

1. Get the fittings from a mopar dealer (online or brick and mortar). You change them. Or have a generic shop, comfortable with the work do it for you. Or:
2. Get e decent size STACKED PLATE Trans cooler. Cut the leaking metal lines as close to the stock cooler and use 3/8 uscg (marine) Trans lines and route them to your new stacked plate Trans cooler. Gates hose works too. You can find plenty write-ups in the tech section.

But, before you do this, go under the jeep and look. It's fairly easy to see if the lines are leaking. The stock Trans cooler is right at the bottom of the Ac condenser.

Lol

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

thermorex wrote:

Radiator is aluminum. It has 2 holes in the bottom where some plastic fittings are inserted. I hope my memory serves me right... I deleted the stock cooler about 2 years ago and don't remember 100%...

But, it's not high pressure in those lines. At least not high enough to blow a transmission fluid hose and hose Clamps, and I'm telling you from my own experience of modifying every single Trans cooler in every car I owned. Dealer wants you to spend your money to them and it's using scare tactics.

If you don't want to spend too much money, I see 2 choices:

1. Get the fittings from a mopar dealer (online or brick and mortar). You change them. Or have a generic shop, comfortable with the work do it for you. Or:
2. Get e decent size STACKED PLATE Trans cooler. Cut the leaking metal lines as close to the stock cooler and use 3/8 uscg (marine) Trans lines and route them to your new stacked plate Trans cooler. Gates hose works too. You can find plenty write-ups in the tech section.

But, before you do this, go under the jeep and look. It's fairly easy to see if the lines are leaking. The stock Trans cooler is right at the bottom of the Ac condenser.

It seems that the transmission cooler lines are OK. The problem is in the radiator. I will weld it up and fix the holes.
This is where we saw the oil and we ended up with the conclusion that the problem was in the radiator:

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Wed Sep 23, 2015 7:24 am

I may be wrong and can't tell 100% from the pic but that still looks like it's the trans cooler

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Sep 23, 2015 8:32 am

So the transmission cooler is shot? And from the pic I see there is another way to fix leaking connectors, you can replace the "quick conectors" with an. . that goes in the radiator and has 3/8 line hose barb. Not necessarily for you right now, but fyi.

If the cooler us shot, soldering it may work, if done by a pro. But you'll need to clean it super well... Anyways, if you need replacement, it's cheaper to just get an aftermarket part, there are several ways to install it, some cut the bottom part with the Trans cooler out and used the space for an aftermarket cooler, some (like me), went on and added a new cooler in front of the radiator.

Reddish fluid leak

Who is online