so I'm now one of the experienced people who have done a VM timing belt. My observations:

1. The basic belt change is relatively simple. You can do it without breaking into the cooling jacket, if you just plug the overflow nipple and hose on the radiator when you pull them apart.
2. My Jeep had 67k miles, and as far as I know the original timing belt (I figured 10 years, it's time). It was a Goodyear, and I could still read the writing on it.
3. The timing pin kit you can buy on Ebay is really darn cheap. One of the pins needs it's threads touched up. I think in hindsight you're better off getting a pair of 10mmx1.0 bolts and just grinding your own. I don't understand the purpose of the crank pin, it's not like you're going to rotate the crank while you're changing the belt. Use a Sharpie, and make a couple indexing marks on the cam pulleys, crank pulley, and fuel pump. If it wasn't for the cams "jumping" from valve spring pressure there'd be no point to the pins at all.
4. I found that it worked best to install the tensioner last. I also found that when tensioned the cams and fuel pump rotated backwards one tooth. So the trick is to set things up so that both cams and the fuel pump are advanced one tooth, then install the tensioner and tighten it, and then everything should be in time. Rotate the engine over AT LEAST twice to make sure everything clears.
5. some have complained about bending the pins on the tensioner tool. Definitely, but only if the bolt is tight. You must loosen the bolt before fully releasing the tensioner by rotating it counterclockwise; I held the bolt at 1/2 turn shy of tight, used the tool to align the notch with the spring, then tighten the bolt. The tool works beautifully like this.
6. I'm going to get on a program of changing the belt every 60k and then do the "complete" change with a water pump at 120k. With the high quality coolant in the engine I think this is a reasonable service interval, and keeps the valve train protected.

You can tell that they intended for the belt to be serviced fairly regularly, it's easy to get all the stuff off the front of the engine, no pullers are required and with experience and an air ratchet it could be done in less than 3 hours. Not a bad design really. And get your parts from IDParts, they rock.

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The fuel savings from my engine modifications should pay for those modifications in about 250,000 miles

Yup, two tricks for this.
A. Before you take the old belt off, put index marks on the pulleys and extend them onto the old belt. Then using the old belt transfer the index marks onto the new belt.
B. Don't tighten the cam pulley bolts until the belt is on and tensioned.

I think changing every 60k and pump every 120k sounds reasonable. Especially if the vehicle isn't driven a lot.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.