The Saga of the Silver Stallion: CRD resurrection thread

Rixram · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 10:01 pm

Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaait a minute. Back the truck up.

Just got out of the shower, and realized something: why the ****is Satan's Chocolate coming out of the EGR??

It isn't an oil cooler, it is the EGR cooler, right? There isn't supposed to be oil there, if I am thinking correctly (and I may not be; it's been a long darn day).

EDIT: Yes, it's been a long day. The satan's chocolate is the overflow coming from the turbo, through the intercooler and into the intake, and spilling into the EGR pipe along the way.

Whew...I think.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2015 11:04 pm

Dang man, I hope your bearings survive. I just got a CRD with oil in the coolant, and I'm worried about the crank also. Good thing I won't be working on that one for a month or so :dizzy:

Your turbo probably carved it's way through into the oil gallery (common on these jeeps), and that usually ends in a toasted engine, unless they shut it off very quickly.

Rixram · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 8:41 am

Mountainman wrote:

Dang man, I hope your bearings survive. I just got a CRD with oil in the coolant, and I'm worried about the crank also. Good thing I won't be working on that one for a month or so :dizzy:

Your turbo probably carved it's way through into the oil gallery (common on these jeeps), and that usually ends in a toasted engine, unless they shut it off very quickly.

I'm trying to think ahead for when nearing completion of work, how best to flush the oil system. Maybe fill the crankcase with biodiesel, and run for a few minutes? Not sure how wise that'd be (risk of runaway diesel). I guess I could be ready to cover the air intake to close off the air supply. No air, no combustion.

Maybe run it like that, flush it, and run again. Finally fill with Rotella T6 afterwards.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 8:50 am

Rixram wrote:

Mountainman wrote:

Dang man, I hope your bearings survive. I just got a CRD with oil in the coolant, and I'm worried about the crank also. Good thing I won't be working on that one for a month or so :dizzy:

Your turbo probably carved it's way through into the oil gallery (common on these jeeps), and that usually ends in a toasted engine, unless they shut it off very quickly.

I'm trying to think ahead for when nearing completion of work, how best to flush the oil system. Maybe fill the crankcase with biodiesel, and run for a few minutes? Not sure how wise that'd be (risk of runaway diesel). I guess I could be ready to cover the air intake to close off the air supply. No air, no combustion.

Maybe run it like that, flush it, and run again. Finally fill with Rotella T6 afterwards.

Filling the crankcase with biodiesel seems like a bad idea.
Maybe fill it with some Rotella T5 10w-30 to flush it out.

Rixram · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 9:00 am

flash7210 wrote:

Rixram wrote:

Mountainman wrote:

Dang man, I hope your bearings survive. I just got a CRD with oil in the coolant, and I'm worried about the crank also. Good thing I won't be working on that one for a month or so :dizzy:

Your turbo probably carved it's way through into the oil gallery (common on these jeeps), and that usually ends in a toasted engine, unless they shut it off very quickly.

I'm trying to think ahead for when nearing completion of work, how best to flush the oil system. Maybe fill the crankcase with biodiesel, and run for a few minutes? Not sure how wise that'd be (risk of runaway diesel). I guess I could be ready to cover the air intake to close off the air supply. No air, no combustion.

Maybe run it like that, flush it, and run again. Finally fill with Rotella T6 afterwards.

Filling the crankcase with biodiesel seems like a bad idea.
Maybe fill it with some Rotella T5 10w-30 to flush it out.

Whatever it is I use would have to be a good solvent, but also add lubricity. Biodiesel has better qualities for both over regular diesel. But you are suggesting that I go with a lighter weight motor oil? Maybe a 5w-20? Something light enough to pass through.

I'm thinking 30 seconds of run time on the first startup. Drain and refill, and run for...5 minutes?...the second time.

How long do you think?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 10:08 am

I could be wrong. Just do your research before using biodiesel.
I wouldn't want to be the test monkey for this kind of research.

Oils rated for use in diesel engines seem to do a better job of flushing out contaminants.
You could use the 10w-30 or a 15w-40. I was just trying to suggest a less expensive oil.
Try to let it run, at idle, till it gets close to operating temperature. Then drain and change the filter. Fill with whichever diesel oil you like, drive it normally, and change again after about 1000 miles.

Rixram · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 10:39 am

flash7210 wrote:

I could be wrong. Just do your research before using biodiesel.
I wouldn't want to be the test monkey for this kind of research.

Oils rated for use in diesel engines seem to do a better job of flushing out contaminants.
You could use the 10w-30 or a 15w-40. I was just trying to suggest a less expensive oil.
Try to let it run, at idle, till it gets close to operating temperature. Then drain and change the filter. Fill with whichever diesel oil you like, drive it normally, and change again after about 1000 miles.

I was thinking a non-running static fill & drain first to get a lot of the crap out before even turning it over. Then fill with cheap oil, and then follow something like your suggestion.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 10:48 am

Especially on these fickle engines, I wouldn't flush the bearings with anything but oil. Too many people have lost crank bearings for unknown reasons, and they're such a nightmare to replace.

Rixram · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 1:04 pm

I'm not too familiar with imgur, but this is the link to the album with photos. I'm presuming I just need to copy the URL.

http://imgur.com/a/6AswL
Intake crud and the oil

95Z28A4 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:53 am **Posts:** 297

I would be afraid of the effects of biodiesel on the bearing material.

Many years ago before the detergent oil we have today, my uncle (who was the only auto mechanic/body man/machinists/mobile welder in the parish) used ATF to clean engine internals. Every 4th oil change he would use 4 quarts of Gulfpride 30 wt motor oil and 1 quart of ATF. He would run the mixture 1k miles and change the oil again with 5 quarts of Gulfpride 30 wt. I recall him putting 340k miles on a 200 cubic Ford inline 6 in a Mercury Comet. The engine was still running great when he wrecked the Comet. High mileage gasoline engines were nearly unheard of in the 1960's. His oil change intervals were 3k miles. My uncle was also a Ford/Mercury/Lincoln "sub-dealer". Needless to say, we all drove Fords back then.

So.....consider using 5 quarts Rotella 15w-40 and 1 quart of Dexron/Mercon. Start it, check oil pressure, let it warm-up and check oil pressure again. Run it easy for 1k miles and drain it.

Or.......what about 1 quart of Marvel Mystery oil with 5 quarts Rotella 15w-40?

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 5:29 pm

Rixram wrote:

I'm not too familiar with imgur, but this is the link to the album with photos. I'm presuming I just need to copy the URL.

http://imgur.com/a/6AswL
Intake crud and the oil

It's hard to tell from the pictures, but the intake and the oil don't look that bad when compared to other crd's without a disabled egr system. I vote for the flush with cheap oil route. Run a couple batches of Rotella T regular dino oil through it.

Mike

Rixram · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 5:52 pm

update:

I just got into the engine this evening a few moments ago. the good news is the crankshaft does turn. the camshaft do turn. the fuel pump and the water pump to turn.

and I have bad news. it appears that the timing belt has slipped several notches. I can rotate the crankshaft approximately 90 to 100 degrees. after that far, the cams stop. to me, that makes it look like we're making contact with cylinders.

what is the general consensus?

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 6:01 pm

Rixram wrote:

update:

I just got into the engine this evening a few moments ago. the good news is the crankshaft does turn. the camshaft do turn. the fuel pump and the water pump to turn.

and I have bad news. it appears that the timing belt has slipped several notches. I can rotate the crankshaft approximately 90 to 100 degrees. after that far, the cams stop. to me, that makes it look like we're making contact with cylinders.

what is the general consensus?

Trashed rockers? I think you'll have to take the valve cover away and look...

Rixram · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 6:04 pm

thermorex wrote:

Rixram wrote:

update:

I just got into the engine this evening a few moments ago. the good news is the crankshaft does turn. the camshaft do turn. the fuel pump and the water pump to turn.

and I have bad news. it appears that the timing belt has slipped several notches. I can rotate the crankshaft approximately 90 to 100 degrees. after that far, the cams stop. to me, that makes it look like we're making contact with cylinders.

what is the general consensus?

Trashed rockers? I think you'll have to take the valve cover away and look...

does anyone have the procedure handy for putting the engine back in time when its disassembled out of time?
specifically, I am inquiring as to what the number 1 cylinder position needs to be: halfway headed up or halfway headed down.

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 6:07 pm

Rixram wrote:

thermorex wrote:

Rixram wrote:

update:

I just got into the engine this evening a few moments ago. the good news is the crankshaft does turn. the camshaft do turn. the fuel pump and the water pump to turn.

and I have bad news. it appears that the timing belt has slipped several notches. I can rotate the crankshaft approximately 90 to 100 degrees. after that far, the cams stop. to me, that makes it look like we're making contact with cylinders.

what is the general consensus?

Trashed rockers? I think you'll have to take the valve cover away and look...

does anyone have the procedure handy for putting the engine back in time when its disassembled out of time?
specifically, I am inquiring as to what the number 1 cylinder position needs to be: halfway headed up or halfway headed down.

How I'd do it, and I have to admit I never had to do this on the crd, thank God... I'd put the crankshaft to 3 o'clock (so you can insert the pin through the flywheel). Then, put the cams with the notches facing each other (one at 3 o'clock, one at nine o'clock), so you can insert the cam pins through.

Rixram · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 7:15 pm

I am very thankful to be wrong on this one. I removed the fuel injectors, and then I could turn the engine. some of the cylinders were full of the foam oil, and could not compress.

I have the cam locks in place, in the fuel timing mark is aligned.

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 7:18 pm

Rixram wrote:

I am very thankful to be wrong on this one. I removed the fuel injectors, and then I could turn the engine. some of the cylinders were full of the foam oil, and could not compress.

I have the cam locks in place, in the fuel timing mark is aligned.

Is the crank mark at 3 o'clock?

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 7:21 pm

I'm concerned about the amount of foamy oil you're finding in everything. It sounds like every cubic inch of the engine, cooling system, intercooler, etc are filled to the brim. How did this much fluid (whatever it is) end up in everything?

Rixram · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 8:10 pm

Mike92104 wrote:

Rixram wrote:

I am very thankful to be wrong on this one. I removed the fuel injectors, and then I could turn the engine. some of the cylinders were full of the foam oil, and could not compress.

I have the cam locks in place, in the fuel timing mark is aligned.

Is the crank mark at 3 o'clock?

Cams locks are in the correct locations. The marks on the wheels do not line up exactly, indicating the 100k job was done.

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2015 8:34 pm

What do you mean by "the marks on the wheels"? Is that cam sprockets? If yes, I doubt they are aligned from factory.

The Saga of the Silver Stallion: CRD resurrection thread

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