I think the tiny bit of seepage on the front crank seal is normal/standard. I think the several I've seen all looked a little moist, so unless it's dripping oil, I wouldn't touch it
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| Author: | dntlkbak [ Mon Sep 21, 2015 11:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Couple questions. |
I'm in the process of getting this replacement engine up to par and have a couple questions, If I line up the TDC hole in the flywheel & block and install a bolt through it and both the intake and exhaust locking pin holes (ones behind the hex key screws) can be seen and line up together is this the correct position? also when I remove the cam sprockets (after marking them) can they be taken off seperately and thrown on the bench until install, or do they have to be removed together. Also I removed my engine mounts as they are super easy when the engine is missing and they both rattle when I shake them, does this mean they are pooched? Thanks folks. |
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| Author: | Mountainman [ Mon Sep 21, 2015 11:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Couple questions. |
No need to look at the crank, so I don't know the answer to that question. But, there's a witness mark on the crank sprocket, and it needs to be at 3 o'clock, and then if the cam pins go in, you are ready to set up the timing. Just make sure you do the two revolution verification and that the cam pins go back in with no more than a hair of movement of the crank witness at 3'oclock. You can remove those sprockets seperately, and I don't mark them either, as they aren't keyed and make no difference how they are reinstalled. I don't even line the marks back up, as they mean nothing... Yes, sounds like the mounts are toast. I hear they are good for about 50k miles I think? |
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| Author: | dntlkbak [ Tue Sep 22, 2015 12:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Couple questions. |
Thanks for the reply mountainman. I misworded my first question, the bolt through the flexplate and block is what they call the crank lock pin I think. I need to replace the front outer crank seal as it looks to be seeping a little so I will need to remove the inner TB cover. Anything else to be aware of when doing this job, also going to do the water pump. Thanks. |
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| Author: | flash7210 [ Tue Sep 22, 2015 9:04 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Couple questions. |
Once you pin the cams and crank you can unbolt the cam sprockets. Just dont rely on the cam pins to hold against the force of unbolting the sprockets. Use some sort of sprocket holding tool. Do the same when installing the sprockets. Once the sprockets are removed, the inner timing cover can be unbolted and water pump replaced. |
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| Author: | pjigar [ Tue Sep 22, 2015 9:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Couple questions. |
The fuel pump also has a witness mark at 9 o'clock position on the rear timing cover that should line up with the witness marks on the sprocket of the fuel pump. Some people say you don't need to time the pump but I did it any way. The water pump is not timed. |
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| Author: | Mountainman [ Tue Sep 22, 2015 10:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Couple questions. |
I think the tiny bit of seepage on the front crank seal is normal/standard. I think the several I've seen all looked a little moist, so unless it's dripping oil, I wouldn't touch it
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| Author: | dntlkbak [ Wed Sep 23, 2015 11:04 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Couple questions. |
If you have the cams pinned and the crank pinned can you take the valve cover off or is there another step I'm missing? Thanks. |
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| Author: | ebbnflow [ Wed Sep 23, 2015 11:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Couple questions. |
You are good to go! |
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| Author: | flash7210 [ Wed Sep 23, 2015 11:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Couple questions. |
dntlkbak wrote: If you have the cams pinned and the crank pinned can you take the valve cover off or is there another step I'm missing? Thanks. With the cams pinned and all the timing belt components removed, the inner timing cover can be removed. Then remove the intake elbow. After that, remove the fuel rail, fuel injectors, and move the wiring harness on top of the motor out of the way. Its helpful to label all the connectors on the harness so you know where they all connected to. I would also label the injectors. You can now unbolt and remove the intake manifold/valve cover. Be aware that there are two alignment pins for the intake manifold. Dont loose them. They will most likely remain stuck in the top of the head but sometimes they pull out when lifting off the intake manifold. When re installing, you will need new copper crush washers for the injectors. And be sure to follow the procedure in the manual for torquing the intake manifold back down. |
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| Author: | dntlkbak [ Fri Sep 25, 2015 1:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Couple questions. |
Thanks guys 
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