Hi I hope you can help me.

I had picked up a Cherokee (liberty) 2004 UK model here in england. It came from the salvage auctions after a small knock to the front bumber and arch. It has 94000 miles. Evidence of Fuel oil and air filters were changed at 89,000. looks to be original serpentine belt and the cambelt cover looks untouched so I am assuming that it is still original......

I have repaired the damage but there must be something wrong with the engine, it is very slow revs up slow and seems like it is missing/is out of balance...

There is very little torque.

No smoke to note when driven hard or at idle

It uk spec so it has a wastegated turbo, No MAF or airbox sensors. Injector 2 has a leaking seal noted by a mountain of tar.

So far I have looked and not found the info I need. I have done the following:

Inspected the boost hoses - no problems found, blocked the intake and the hoses hold vaccum till it would stall. They both go hard under accelerated revs, so pressure is being created.
Inspected turbo, inlet compressor is good, no play, blocked the inlet output to pressurise the wastgate and it sounded like the actuator opened.

Cleaned the MAP/Airtemp sensor you could not see it for crud. this made no change.

My ODBII scanner doesnt recognise Jeep so cant scan for codes. Had no fault codes initially but since i have been pulling sensors etc the CEL light has come up.

It sounds normal and not thumpy or clanky so i guess it isn't head related. I cant help but think it is an injection issue, the car idles perfectly.

If you have any thoughts I would gladly take them onboard..

Not sure with regard the EGR valve are they open or closed at idle?

start with basics . you need new fuel filter ,pull injector # 2 clean injector cup seat ,i have special reamer tool i love it , lot of people did it with shut gun brush up to you. install new crush washer and hold down bolt , remove intake elbow clean intake best you can (vacuum cleaner) check air filter . go for road test and let as know if any improvement

will do, concerned about the injector being stuck for good...

air filter has been checked and is as new.

whats the best way to get the old crush washer out? and how do you stop the crud getting in the cylinder..

P.S who designed an intake manifold you cant dismantle without taking out the injectors etc..... Grr.

also whats the torque setting for the injector bolt?

don,t worry start working on this unusual motor we keep eye on you . just take your time slow ,don't rush this think is so sensitive, one think at the time.

injector bolt i think 22ft lb but most important that you clean cup seat so washer can seat flat , at this point don't know if washer is stuck or if will come out with just pull of small screw or pick , if not we know how don't worry pull injector first and and well see ,good luck

have now dug down as far as the injector clamp and cleaned the area. Filled the surounding hole with water and it blows air bubbles when idling. so it is definately loosing compression here....

ordered new crush rings. are they stretch bolts that hold the injector in?

should i purchase a injector puller for £100 or is there a good home garage method?

many thanks thus far!

Its a regular bolt, not a stretch bolt. I've used a crow foot pry bar to give them a gentle nudge while wiggling back and forth by hand.

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My collection of CRD's:
2005 Deep Beryl Green Pearlcoat
2006 Light Khaki Metallic Clearcoat
2006 Inferno Red Crystal Pearlcoat
2006 Midnight Blue Pearlcoat
2006 Gold Limited
2015 Black Ecodiesel
2015 Black Ecodiesel 2

injector out and cleaned bore, came out quite easy concidering the crud. Just got to get the washer out and clean the seat. waiting on parts now till i get it back together... cylinder 3 maybe letting by aswell...

both injectors removed cleaned bores and seats, No.3 was not leaking. No.2 Injector rubber o-ring has perished - is this critical? I have put on another o-ring not quite as thick... is there any bleed sequence with the High pressure pipes? having worked on VP44 pumps before they needed bleeding but i guess that a common rail will self bleed?

Interested to get it back out on the road to see the difference.

good job ., lucky injector came out easy,yes no need to bleed fuel , just crank it it will be ok , but you need to do delete egr that is your next job.

As an Export model with the fixed vane Turbo it is easy to stop the EGR from opening.

Next to the Air filter there is a small black plastic solenoid assembly with two small rubber hoses on it and a two-wire electrical connector...a small filter dangles below it.

Remove one of the small rubber hoses and screw a small self-tapping screw into the exposed plastic nipple...replace rubber hose to hide the screw head.

These fixed-vane CRDs do not have sophisticated EGR checking..the ECM only checks that the solenoid is not open circuit or short circuit.

You need to hope though that your EGR is not stuck in the open position in which case this modification will make no difference....EGR is normally closed at idle I believe.

I have found that open road travel at speed...especially when climbing long hills...is much better with the EGR disabled...have not noticed any fuel consumption change!

Check your air filter is good...I had a blocked air filter caused by a mouse that made a home inside the filter housing out of old newspaper!

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

Ok, misfire fixed, now pulls pretty well if booted. Not knowing the driving characteristics of these vehicles, it seems to labour a bit till 1600 rpm and then go well.

If on light throttle acceleration through 1400-1600rpm the engine feels like it is missing a beat? It feels like there is no boost and when more throttle applied then it goes well...

In my mind either a dirty injector, or map being a little insensitive??

Penny for your thoughts

Oh - airfilter is clean
Egr now blanked off

just looking into rocker wear - I bet that is the problem.... worn rockers so limited cam opening, excessive cylinder pressure blows copper seal?

no MAF to test airflow on idle any other way to test?

i say drive it for now , start saving money , and when you ready for big job , timing, belt , water pump, rockers etc ,,, you will get all the bugs out , and your jeep will be 100%

It is due cambelt and water pump so I'm going to strip down today!!

Hoping its a straightforward affair - do not want to be taking the head off...

OK - So I'm about a third of the way through stripping down. cambelt tensioner was still taught but there must have been stretch, as the tension marker was a reasonable way out? some sideways cracking to belt. There is no way this belt has been changed before. so it has lasted 94000 and 12 years!

water pump replaced - the OEM one still looks and feels perfect.

3 out of 4 Injectors out, no1 was letting by as well. no 4 is stuck up pretty good so still working on that. then I can strip off to inspect the rockers/cam lobes!

Fingers Crossed!!!

ok so good news, rockers are fine - no play no damage. very impressed with their condition and the cam condition. lifters are all good too. so its good to go back together now. getting the cams lined up just right over the rockers is going to be a test!

Can you re-use the rocker cover gasket or is it a 1 shot. - I did order one but it has not arrived and now is out of stock with that supplier. contemplating refitting the old one.

Just need my water heater bearing to arrive. and We'll give it a go again...

Many folks here in the forum used the old one. I got a new one from idparts.com. It would help having 2 valve cover long bolts where you cut the bolt head off, or get the equivalent from napa/Autoparts store, you can use them as a guide for your valve cover, same way as the manual says to use some guiding pins, it helps putting the valve cover straight over the rockers. Sorry, don't remember the threat pitch of the valve cover long bolts, but if you have that apart, you can find it easy.

Oh, and for viscous heater, unplug the relay so it won't ever work. Will probably outlast the engine. I live in Cleveland and have no issues with it not working, the cabin gets warm quickly without it.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

thanks for the info - will do!

the bearing in the heater is the not the disengage able one it is the main bearing that is shot - just found one online.

For reference (search engines)

Viscous heater denso 418100-0013 replacement bearing size 35 x 52 x 22 search a/c bearing clutch bearing.

ok so re-timed new belt, pump etc. started her up and still the same. so its not rockers, its not timing.

So We have to question injectors, pump, sensors, PCM... ? air in fuel?

I have purchased a elm327 lead from ebay but the software couldnt read any fault codes.. Its live data states MAP reading is 75inHG (255kpa) this is 30psi?

and air 215c and (419f) & water temp are 215c (419f)

surely this is all incorrect. 2 separate OBD programs give the same data.

are there resistive reading for these sensors i could check with a meter?

The early Export CRDs use a PCI bus for comunication as apposed to the later CAN bus used so it is difficult to pull codes out with most code readers.

You can pull codes using the "key" trick.
Rapidly turn the ignition ON/OFF 4 times without starting the engine...on the 4th ON action leave the ignition ON and write down the codes shown on the Odometer display...the last code is the most recent and valid while the earlier ones may be ancient history. If you get codes, PM me your E-mail address and I will send you the file for the codes for the early Export models and what to do about them...file is about 1.4 MB.

What Service Manual are you using?
You can download the 2003 KJ Service Manual here..close enough to the 2004 model but first download the section called "2.5_2.8 Export Diesel" as this covers our early Export CRDS which have some diffences to the later USA 2005/6 models.

http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport