Just finished my 11th Timing Belt job (Total, not same Jeep)

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Oct 16, 2015 8:05 pm

Well I made some observations this time around, which may or may not be helpful to all involved. Surprisingly this one held a lot of revelations, and I'm sure someone like Sir Sam or Geordi can relate how the more you do these things, the more little tricks and things you learn.

1. Use 6 point sockets on everything. It's just simpler and 12 point sockets don't like these bolts and torque values.

2. If you install the VM.1089 correctly, the crank will not move at all, and Sir Sam's method of backing up the crank just a hair will NOT work. (I don't know why I never bothered mentioning this before, I didn't notice it here, several changes ago, but I thought about mentioning it this time, since I remembered it). As most have said, use the witness mark on the CP3 pump (I would recommend making some more marks as well) the crank will stay with the bolt pattern at 12/3/6/9 but I would go ahead and mark it in 2 places as well. I still don't recommend the "DRILL BIT" method and I have not found one yet that the Sealey tool doesn't go right into and lock everything down very tightly. Also, we have seen 2 members lately shatter drill bits into the flywheel area (RISKY BUSINESS)!

3. DO the cam gears LAST! Don't bother marking them, it doesn't matter. Marks on them mean nothing as you use them to bring the looseness out of the belt. Remember your timing is at your crank and your CP3 pump only, cam sprockets don't matter because the timing pins keep the cams in time.

4. Check your work! It's better to do 3/6/9/12 revolutions of the engine on the crank before you do a test start! Do it until you feel comfortable. Check that timing!

5. I still think the VM.1085 is the best tool for the job. You may like the sprocket buster, the VW tool, whatever. That VM.1085 is a beefy monster!

6. Change the idlers! (Timing and Serpentine) Don't cheap out! Get it out of the way.

7. Change that lower radiator hose! (Remember you can take out the metal liner and re-use it. Also the heat shield and the 1" rubber bands holding it on are easy to remove and re-use. It's an expensive proposition to do it by itself!

8. Don't trust it to someone who is going to learn on it! I don't need this work, I do it to help, and because I actually (wth is wrong with me?) ENJOY it. A little extra money is nice, but I charge a LOT less than a mechanic.

9. It's funny what you find inside the engine bay of a vehicle that gets taken apart for the first time in 100,000 miles!

10. This was the cleanest vehicle I've ever worked on, especially inside the engine bay, props to you sir!

11. Get the Water pump and thermostat while you're in there! It's a real pain to have to do it later because you didn't do it then.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Oct 16, 2015 11:48 pm

For just a timing job, you might have yourself a nice little side business too, lately everyone is going for the whole enchilada with me.
Once you get a few more done, you might change your process a bit too. I didn't see anything to be concerned with, other than the VM1089 tool that I'm not a fan of. If the cam sprockets aren't perfectly positioned, then somewhere there will be pressure exerted to push the belt one way or the other and it isn't infinitely variable anymore. If the clamp had flat pressure plates instead of that tooth that sticks up, I wouldn't have this issue with it.

Good luck on your next 40 or so!

Hexus · **Posted:** Sat Oct 17, 2015 12:36 am

Yeah, 6 of mine were entire top ends. With rockers and lifters. Timing belts only are a blessing!

Just finished my 11th Timing Belt job (Total, not same Jeep)

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