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Best CRD Mod:
In-tank or external lift Fuel Pump 12%  12%  [ 2 ]
Performance Tune 35%  35%  [ 6 ]
Torque Converter Upgrade 12%  12%  [ 2 ]
EGR/FCV delete 18%  18%  [ 3 ]
ARP studs 6%  6%  [ 1 ]
Fuel Filter Upgrades/Additions 0%  0%  [ 0 ]
Pro-vent or similar devise 0%  0%  [ 0 ]
Exhaust Upgrade 6%  6%  [ 1 ]
Suspension Upgrade (Springs/Shocks, Lifts etc...) 6%  6%  [ 1 ]
Tire Size Change 0%  0%  [ 0 ]
Gauges 6%  6%  [ 1 ]
Boost Hoses 0%  0%  [ 0 ]
Bumpers/Body Armor 0%  0%  [ 0 ]
Lights Additions or Upgrades 0%  0%  [ 0 ]
Total votes : 17
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 Post subject: 150k+ Club
PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 10:11 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 7157
Location: Central GA
My Jeep CRD earlier this past week joined the 150k+ club; as a daily driver it still runs great and gets fantastic mileage thanks to the Yeti tune and many, many other mods performed as suggested and shared by fellow members on this forum... What a great bunch of very helpful and caring people we have on here that helps keep these very special vehicles going into the future... :!: :!: :!:

If your Jeep CRD has survived to the 150k+ mark, post your mileage and vote on your best mod to date... :idea:
Statistics are always revealing and fun...

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount

98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve


Last edited by WWDiesel on Thu Oct 08, 2015 9:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 150k+ Club
PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 10:28 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 12, 2013 9:17 pm
Posts: 571
Location: Republic, Oh
I'm right at 180k, a "mod" that isn't on there would be ARP studs. Studs, lift pump, and tune/egr and fcv delete since the tune does both.

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05 Liberty Limited CRD, converted to KPA 2863 ball bearing and billet turbo, 50hp injectorsl, complete egr delete, cooling fan delete, weeks intake kit, cummins in tank lift pump, ARP studs, 3" turbo back exhaust, samcos, etecno plugs, GDE trans tune, custom GDE engine tune.


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 Post subject: Re: 150k+ Club
PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 10:29 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 25, 2010 2:15 am
Posts: 69
Location: Near Kansas City Kansas
I'm at 184,000 miles, running on the mild Nick tune, euro TC. I've done most of the mods but have not done the in-tank pump yet, but a Carter in the box stands by in the garage. Of the mods listed I wished I had done the EGR total delete on day one.


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 Post subject: Re: 150k+ Club
PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 6:09 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 11:43 am
Posts: 4962
Location: Green Cove Springs FL
I'm at 167,000 miles now.

I've done a lot of different mods but none of them have helped me gain any MPG. Which is why I will probably be buying a GDE tune.
My larger 245-75-16 tires have significantly hurt my MPG. I guess its because of the more aggressive off road tread.
I've tried the free tunes. They do provide more power but really point out the weakness of the stock torque converter.
I have a hemi TC waiting to be installed. Just need to find the time and courage to drop the transmission.

Installing the lift pump and deleting the EGR were preventative measures.
Replacing my cracked cylinder head provided the opportunity to install ARP studs.

I recommend installing a fuel rail pressure gauge and a boost gauge.
Both are good tools to have for quickly diagnosing drivability problems.
The TorquePro app can give you boost readings but cant give you accurate fuel rail pressure.
The fuel rail pressure gauge I installed has helped me identify high pressure fuel system problems.

Other than the cracked head, my CRD engine has been relatively trouble free.

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U.S. Army Retired


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 Post subject: Re: 150k+ Club
PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 11:03 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 8:57 pm
Posts: 2654
Location: Boise, Idaho
18x,xxx (the battery is out right now for ARP's).

My favorite mod is my tensioner relocate which helped me remove 5 pulleys. 5 less bearing sets to worry about, replace, ect. Plus in conjunction with the electric fan, I can work on the engine with ease.

I think the most important ones are EGR delete of some kind, ARP's, and a lift pump. With those, the engine should run a very long time.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete


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 Post subject: Re: 150k+ Club
PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 5:57 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2015 7:46 pm
Posts: 1
Location: Chicago, IL
Im at 206k. I've done a few of the less expensive mods but I'm hesitant to put too much money into the Jeep as I'm not the first owner so your guess is as good as mine of how long the thing will actually last :?

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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
Rockfather II
DiabloSport Power Puck
Side Exhaust
ORM Mod


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 Post subject: Re: 150k+ Club
PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 9:18 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 7157
Location: Central GA
diesel_guy86 wrote:
I'm right at 180k, a "mod" that isn't on there would be ARP studs. Studs, lift pump, and tune/egr and fcv delete since the tune does both.

added ARP studs to the list, good point! :|

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount

98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve


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 Post subject: Re: 150k+ Club
PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 9:31 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 7157
Location: Central GA
Mountainman wrote:
18x,xxx (the battery is out right now for ARP's).

My favorite mod is my tensioner relocate which helped me remove 5 pulleys. 5 less bearing sets to worry about, replace, ect. Plus in conjunction with the electric fan, I can work on the engine with ease.

I think the most important ones are EGR delete of some kind, ARP's, and a lift pump. With those, the engine should run a very long time.

Please share with us how you managed to get rid of 5 pulleys??? I know some have done away with the viscous heater by running a shorter belt, but that is only one pulley less.
I am sure many inquiring minds on here would like to know how you done it... :wink:

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount

98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve


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 Post subject: Re: 150k+ Club
PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 10:57 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2010 3:14 pm
Posts: 2294
Location: Sumter, SC
I'm getting close man, 145xxx... Best "mod" is the gde Eco tune full torque and the Suncoast torque converter. Jus hammered it today and it launched like it was getting ready to get towards Mars...

I just got an Eco diesel ram. A friend drove it from the dealer while I drove the crd. Smoked his butt... Lol a crd tuned, with a good tc and provent will last forever.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.


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 Post subject: Re: 150k+ Club
PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 11:57 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 8:57 pm
Posts: 2654
Location: Boise, Idaho
WWDiesel wrote:
Mountainman wrote:
18x,xxx (the battery is out right now for ARP's).

My favorite mod is my tensioner relocate which helped me remove 5 pulleys. 5 less bearing sets to worry about, replace, ect. Plus in conjunction with the electric fan, I can work on the engine with ease.

I think the most important ones are EGR delete of some kind, ARP's, and a lift pump. With those, the engine should run a very long time.

Please share with us how you managed to get rid of 5 pulleys??? I know some have done away with the viscous heater by running a shorter belt, but that is only one pulley less.
I am sure many inquiring minds on here would like to know how you done it... :wink:


I removed the AC, and VH (2 pulleys), and then 2 idler pulleys, and then the big pulley for the mech fan. There's another spot on the front of the timing cover for a tensioner (marine or EU version without VH?) that I noticed after I removed the mech fan mount. Just have to file the tensioner housing a few mils and it fits nicely in the spot. Oh, I have to put a little spacer to bring the tensioner out a few mils also to line up with the belt properly, but that was just a washer or two right behind the pulley itself. My belt goes all of the way from the power steering strait to the alternator, so I am probably going to cut the top part of the mech fan mount in order to put one idler pulley back into play to support the belt. But, I've been running for a few thousand without it, and the belt looks ok. I think you can do all of this and leave the AC in, just need a different belt. I just don't need AC, and my jeep is much happier with all of that crap gone. Not to mention better airflow across radiator and IC, and easy access to many things.

_________________
05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete


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